You are correct.I believe it's just O ring, then plastic piece. When pushing the connector onto the radiator, the plastic piece will put pressure on the O ring. Or something like that
Thanks.. I Bought whole new hose set from DHD.I have some of the correct o-rings at home. Will be back at the end of nexxt week if you want to wait.
I personally am a big Goerend fan but also have used/am a dealer for DPC. DPC is a solid brand but not my typical "go to". I have not had a single failure that wasn't caused by something else like a torn seal, debris, low fluid etc. The DPC units seem to run 10-15f hotter than Goerend, this is comparing a "C" (stock LB7 stator triple disk) to a 3BLS. DPC's 3BLS is their version of a billet stator OEM stall converter.Yeah I'm familiar with them, haven't convinced myself to drop ~800 on the proflow yet.
Good thing, all the bolts and important fittings are new and will easily come apart ?
The OEM 26gl is annoying, emailed Titan tank about their ECSB 37gl replacement tank, said they dropped it a short time ago, S&B stopped years ago, same with transfer flow.
There's still a few Titan ECSB tanks out there in the wild for ~1000.00
Saw this that looks like an old transfer flow tank, but he owner has no idea and a freebie with the Ford truck he bought.
Once I have a bed, I can drop a ~12D*16H*60L ~45gl tank or simiy in the front of the bed
There's always mounting a 25-30gl 80-90s Blazer tank in the spare tire area. I have couple C&C dual tank control modules from 90s C3500HD that I can run dual tanks and gauges.
Brakes are done... shocks, steering, gauges next, most likely in that order, do need cognito braces, have the TR sleeves.
This stock TC stall is definitely annoying, IDK how long that will stay there.. I do have my old AX7L TC still mounted in my old dually transmission. I'm not turning the HP up anymore till I have a built transmission
The DPC 3BLS is what I'm really after.
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The 3BLS is closest I have found commonly advertised to the transtar AX7L that I ran in my LMM hotshot dually.I personally am a big Goerend fan but also have used/am a dealer for DPC. DPC is a solid brand but not my typical "go to". I have not had a single failure that wasn't caused by something else like a torn seal, debris, low fluid etc. The DPC units seem to run 10-15f hotter than Goerend, this is comparing a "C" (stock LB7 stator triple disk) to a 3BLS. DPC's 3BLS is their version of a billet stator OEM stall converter.
Goerend G and X are similar to the 3BLS. They're targeted at the OEM LB7 stator stall speed but with some nice drivability bumps.
The G is simply a billet version of the C stator. The X is a harder coupling low stall converter that would likely fit your desires well IF you're not running a larger drop in turbo.
I will be interested to see what you think when they show up and you install them.You are correct.
While I don't have PPE stuff..
Locally, I can get gates/dayco for ~220
Sent some money to DHD
DHD 500-0387 BLACK SILICONE UPPER & LOWER COOLANT HOSE KIT FOR 06-10 6.6 LBZ/LMM DURAMAX
DHD 500-0387 BLACK SILICONE UPPER & LOWER COOLANT HOSE KIT FOR 06-10 6.6 LBZ/LMM DURAMAXdirtyhookerdiesel.com
I feel the same as Josh. Silicone coolant hoses have never ended well long term for me our my customers, they always tended to leak.
I will be interested to see what you think when they show up and you install them.
Well I'll let y'all know lol.I hate silicone coolant hoses. They always seem to leak.
Where do they start leaking?Oh we know they do but you will find out. Take about a year for them to start
Usually around every connection as the clamps displace the silicone over time, thus losing tension on the joint and causing a leak. That is why most shops/forums recommend against them.Where do they start leaking?
Sounds like an easy fix with constant tension clampsUsually around every connection as the clamps displace the silicone over time, thus losing tension on the joint and causing a leak. That is why most shops/forums recommend against them.
I've tried that and they still leaked. Too much tension and you exaggerate the rate of "squish", too little and you leak.Sounds like an easy fix with constant tension clamps
What if it was wrapped or has a wider band to spread the load or squish out, before putting the clamp on? I've had to do this for some hoses before to keep the clamp from cutting into the rubber. Use a metal tube/pipe. Cut it into a "C" and put the clamp over that.I've tried that and they still leaked. Too much tension and you exaggerate the rate of "squish", too little and you leak.
I wish you luck with them.
I plan on clocking everything then putting a coat of Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant 81158 on every joint except the water pump while using similar constant tension clamps on the CAC pipe bootsWhat if it was wrapped or has a wider band to spread the load or squish out, before putting the clamp on? I've had to do this for some hoses before to keep the clamp from cutting into the rubber. Use a metal tube/pipe. Cut it into a "C" and put the clamp over that.