Saw those, I wanted something more dedicated though
Bought, wrecked, rebuilding a 2009 LMM
- Thread starter malibu795
- Start date
Well, been playing around with the thermal scanner.. outside the battery posts being warm haven't been able to find the short ground. Yet.
Started it, checked grounds on block and frame less than 5° above ambient. Which is mid 30s.
?
Left batteries connected and hooked charger to for sustained 40A float charge. Check things again later..
Started it, checked grounds on block and frame less than 5° above ambient. Which is mid 30s.
?
Left batteries connected and hooked charger to for sustained 40A float charge. Check things again later..
Did the Barn burn down yet? It's officially later.... 
Thought I updated this...
Couldn't find anything, even with it running
Nothing is burnt down... Yet lol
Couldn't find anything, even with it running
Nothing is burnt down... Yet lol
Glow plug module never got warm and glow plug don't cycle, Neither did the intake heater.
The main feed cable got to about 65-70° and just stayed there.
The BCM case got warm, but I forgot to turn the HVAC fan off, so IDK how much of it was from the HVAC or itself.. I've got the ductwork out for easier access to the BCM which blows almost directly on the BCM ??
The main feed cable got to about 65-70° and just stayed there.
The BCM case got warm, but I forgot to turn the HVAC fan off, so IDK how much of it was from the HVAC or itself.. I've got the ductwork out for easier access to the BCM which blows almost directly on the BCM ??
Played around some more with the thermal,
Definitely had some burnt wire smell when I hooked the batteries up,
With key in the run position, ECM/TCM/BCM/MAF/ shift interlock all get warm, like 70° warm in 30° ambient temps
Run/crank relay, and HD/LP relay also get warm.
Does any of the serial data lines run through the fuse block internally? I've heard of the whole thing going bad and creating weird problems.?
Definitely had some burnt wire smell when I hooked the batteries up,
With key in the run position, ECM/TCM/BCM/MAF/ shift interlock all get warm, like 70° warm in 30° ambient temps
Run/crank relay, and HD/LP relay also get warm.
Does any of the serial data lines run through the fuse block internally? I've heard of the whole thing going bad and creating weird problems.?
They warp and cause all sorts of odd issues. Little critters can get in there and wreck havoc as well.
Whale shit
I know kinda "chucked" around while it was out.. and it makes senses there is some sort of circuit board inside it.
Need to pick up some small probes to check continuity..
Soo excited at learning things in not interested in???
?
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I'm not sure, someone can probably compare the part numbers, but I believe the gasoline Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, suburban, etc all used the same fuse block. Just populated the fuses differently. I'm seeing those for far less then the "diesel" ones
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Haven't gotten chance to touch it ?
Daily has been acting up, with random electrical issues as well..
Found out summit carrier some heat shrink self solder splice connectors orders few packets for wires 28ga to 14ga.
www.summitracing.com
Daily is a 01 2500 6.0 LQ4/4L85 suburban with 491,5XX miles
Problem with it, is ignition is cutting out randomly like a scratch switch on a DJ board.
It has a cam position and MAF code both have been replaced.. cam sensor has been there for years and only creates hard starts..
all engine bay grounds and battery posts have been checked.. without disconnecting loom support juggling harnesses doesn't induce problems ??
Daily has been acting up, with random electrical issues as well..
Found out summit carrier some heat shrink self solder splice connectors orders few packets for wires 28ga to 14ga.
DX Engineering DXE-HSIB-1614-25 DX Engineering Heat Shrink Self-Solder Wire Splice Connectors | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - DX Engineering Heat Shrink Self-Solder Wire Splice Connectors with qualifying orders of $125. Shop Wiring Terminals at Summit Racing.
Daily is a 01 2500 6.0 LQ4/4L85 suburban with 491,5XX miles
Problem with it, is ignition is cutting out randomly like a scratch switch on a DJ board.
It has a cam position and MAF code both have been replaced.. cam sensor has been there for years and only creates hard starts..
all engine bay grounds and battery posts have been checked.. without disconnecting loom support juggling harnesses doesn't induce problems ??
I wonder if is the electronic portion of the key switch in the column? Try bumping the keys while its running.
I just pulled a 9.5 rear end apart from a burb for one of my projects. I was thinking about your burb when I took all the rust free parts out of it. Was around 100k or less when I got it and been sitting under a tarp for years since i have had it. I had to pull the retaining rings on the wheel studs to get the disk off it. Never been apart before.
I just pulled a 9.5 rear end apart from a burb for one of my projects. I was thinking about your burb when I took all the rust free parts out of it. Was around 100k or less when I got it and been sitting under a tarp for years since i have had it. I had to pull the retaining rings on the wheel studs to get the disk off it. Never been apart before.
I'll play with the key later,
I've got a 10.50 14B FF to go in the back of it or my 75 K20.
Did score a whole harness ECM pedal for a 03-07 LQ4/4L85/4*4 for 150.00 last week as well
What you going to do with that?
BTW 03-05 is different from 06-07 and you need the matching TAC module for that pedal for the respective year range, other wise it goes into REP mode. I think the TB is the same. I don't recall. Fortunately they are not expensive.
Just like LB7/LLY to LBZ. Interesting.
I believe the LB7/LLY is the same 03-05 Gasser pedal.
The LBZ and the 06-07 Gasser also look the same.
Short immediate answer, was to strip MAF/CMP circuits out of it and repin them into the suburban, vs cutting a 6-8" pigtails and routine new wires
yours bad?