Bought, wrecked, rebuilding a 2009 LMM

1FastBrick

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Dec 1, 2016
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Attached Below is the DTC description with trouble shooting chart for each code.
 

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1FastBrick

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Dec 1, 2016
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Suburban does have a 10mm studs on the fuse box that I'm going to stick a 175A fuse and stick the Alt cable there
Those 2 studs are already fused. There is a 125 amp off to the side labeled #18 in the attached PDF.

I don't know if has a fuse you can change out to a larger one. If your alternator is the original 125 AMP probably don't need to change it out

The later years had a 145amp for the heavy duty package.
 

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malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
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Yes, original alt was a 125A, I've since swapped it to a 160A, studs #1/#2 are not what I'm talking about.
Need to get some heat shrink. The 175A off an old Dmax power block works nicely
 

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1FastBrick

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It was worse lol
And to think we discard perfectly good running vehicles here in CA because people just get tired of them...

I had a coworker that was from Michigan Born and raised. I sent him pictures of a car just like his that was in good shape relatively speaking, just sitting in the junkyard missing a few parts waiting in line to be crushed. He about cried...

I haven't even looked at that harness I bought yet.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Adam, you should see all the older trucks out here in Arizona with beautiful rust free bodies. Unreal.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Aftermarket 5 spoke. They've got an odd design -- similar to the C5 magnesium wheels
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
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Aftermarket 5 spoke. They've got an odd design -- similar to the C5 magnesium wheels
Yep, replicas as well, most likely throw some 300tw tires on them and daily it, and buy a set of sticky 200tw 275/40/17 for the 17s

He ran auto X with them on his C5, I'm not too up on the idea of a 4000lb car on 200tw with ~2" billet spacers, outside some pits and minor scuffs nothing blatantly wrong with them
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
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Got chance to work of the LMM,
There was a 2.5-3A draw with everything off and doors shut..
started back probing stuff started with starter relay, verified switch to BCM, BCM to fuse box.. at least that section of the BCM worked..

Fuse box lit on fire when checking to see if there was starter signal from the BCM??‍♂️

Gues that I'm putting in a fuse box??‍♂️
Edit for split fuse box picture
 

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malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
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Dealer wants 435.00 the fuse box, plus shipping no fuses or relays from Chicago to Springfield Ohio..
Hicksville is sending one for ~150.00, including shipping, missed getting pickup today, should be here by Friday through Brown
 

2004LB7

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How close are the fuse blocks from the gassers to the diesels? Ebay has quite a few
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
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Well this arrived.. since it didn't solve the issue, it was probably me being too aggressive that caused the smoke or accidentally shorted something ??‍♂️
So to recap...
Can jump starter relay and start the truck and put it in gear
Everything else is back to before I melted the fuse box...once started, one pulls the run/crank relay engine stops.

The best I can figure out to start via key..
Key on turns BCM on via #530
BCM turns on all the modules via the run/crank relay via #5199

The starter relay is engaged/commanded via #625 from the ECM..

What I haven't found, is how does the ECM get the request to crank?
Where/how does the switch send the request? Is it a momentary signal to the BCM then sent via data cables/can bus? Or wire straight to the ECM?

I do have a lot of can bus stuff not working in the dash.

Still cannot read anything through the DLC connector though it does have power to turn on the code reader.

Edit found the connector pin out diagram for the ignition switch.. wonder is #1020 is crank request, haven't seen that number before...
Edit ... Found #1020 runs into X1 L-GN connector in the BCM
 

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