I know, Those have to go.... I was wondering too about the interior but like all the other idiots, just some generic crappy pictures.
August '23 Chat -- Will Jason find his DragTruck? -- Stay Tuned!!!!
- Thread starter TheBac
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Your probably right. I remember having a conversation with him about a converter that only dropped about 50 rpms when it locked due to how tight it was. I tried to convince him to put it in mine but he said it was a one off experimental build. He said the one he put in it would couple well and I should like it. He of course, and to no surprise was right.
That 05 looks like a good truck to turn into a race truck. I don't think $8500 is a bad price for a running and driving 4x4 single cab duramax. They're hard to come by and people tend to think they're super valuable.
I friggen hate that. Usually the rest of the pics you ask for tells the rest of the story. Or they flat just don’t send what you’re asking for.
Jason, fairly firm still leaves some wiggle room. Something I noticed when I was looking for my medium duty, whether it’s for want or need, the experience is always the same
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My brother took his newly acquired camping trailer, the one I added solar, extra batteries, inverter, etc. to in the other thread, out to the mountains to do a little shakedown test.
Everything worked great except we had a little issue with the brakes. One side was running hot and smelling of burning pads. The other side was cool to the touch. We decided to test turning off the trailer brake controller to verify it wasn't the bearings. Stopped a little bit later and both wheels where cool.
We did another test with manually activating the brakes while I walked along side it and I could hear the brakes working on the side that was previously overheating. The cool side didn't really sound like it was making as much noise
So, today after we got back, I took both drums off to inspect the pads, magnets and anything else that would cause it. Didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Magnets on both look good with plenty of life left. Brake pads have about an 1/8th or maybe a smidge more. Manually moving the magnet lever seems to properly activate the appropriate pad for forward and reverse.
The side that was over heating was full of brake dust and was considerably more dirty. The cool side was much cleaner. Almost as it it wasn't really doing anything.
I haven't done a lot of work on these types of brakes. So I was wondering other then the usual wear and tear, worn pads and sticking mechanisms etc, is there anything in particular I should inspect or test. Obviously I need to check and ohm the wires and magnets to make sure they are both working the same. Maybe even measure the current on each one. The self adjusters looked ok and moved freely and ratcheted as I would expect.
At this point I thinking that the overheating side was working ok but was doing all the braking for the trailer and the gain had to be turned up higher to compensate for the cooler side that wasn't engaging. With the one side doing all the work it was generating more heat. Does this seem possible? The question is why, if the magnets tests out good, would one be doing all the work with the other doing nothing?
Everything worked great except we had a little issue with the brakes. One side was running hot and smelling of burning pads. The other side was cool to the touch. We decided to test turning off the trailer brake controller to verify it wasn't the bearings. Stopped a little bit later and both wheels where cool.
We did another test with manually activating the brakes while I walked along side it and I could hear the brakes working on the side that was previously overheating. The cool side didn't really sound like it was making as much noise
So, today after we got back, I took both drums off to inspect the pads, magnets and anything else that would cause it. Didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Magnets on both look good with plenty of life left. Brake pads have about an 1/8th or maybe a smidge more. Manually moving the magnet lever seems to properly activate the appropriate pad for forward and reverse.
The side that was over heating was full of brake dust and was considerably more dirty. The cool side was much cleaner. Almost as it it wasn't really doing anything.
I haven't done a lot of work on these types of brakes. So I was wondering other then the usual wear and tear, worn pads and sticking mechanisms etc, is there anything in particular I should inspect or test. Obviously I need to check and ohm the wires and magnets to make sure they are both working the same. Maybe even measure the current on each one. The self adjusters looked ok and moved freely and ratcheted as I would expect.
At this point I thinking that the overheating side was working ok but was doing all the braking for the trailer and the gain had to be turned up higher to compensate for the cooler side that wasn't engaging. With the one side doing all the work it was generating more heat. Does this seem possible? The question is why, if the magnets tests out good, would one be doing all the work with the other doing nothing?
You should be able to probe the wires or butt splices and manually activate the brake controller and see what voltage you get on the cool side. Check the grounds on that side too. Do the wires run thru the axle? Could be some chaffing.
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I haven't probed the wires yet. That's the next thing to do after cleaning it up. The wires to the cool side run through the axle
Same issue I have on my toy hauler. I’m 95% sure it’s a wiring issue on mine. Basically the first brake is getting most the voltage, then there is a voltage drop to the next brake and so on. They are normally all wired in series with vampire taps so it’s real easy to get voltage drop. Plus the wires used are usually way undersized
The wires do look under sized. Maybe 16 gauge. We ran 10 awg to his trailer connector on the truck. They used water tite line taps that seem like good quality but crimp connectors would be better for sure.
I wonder if it would be good to just run parallel wires with one for each wheel. Nothing through the axle and equal length so they get the same voltage and current. Basically just run on the frame mirror image of each side and splice them together at the 7 way cable
Our daughter Hannah comes back home for a week long visit today! We finally get to tell the rest of the family her news!
Thank God the seat heaters on these old trucks have their own plug under the seat. Damn short in the DS element somewhere triggering the damn things.
Last night we ran new wires for the brakes on the trailer. One set of wires down each side of the frame. One for each wheel. That way they would be getting the same voltage and each set of wires would have less current and voltage drop.
Tested the brakes by pulling the brake away switch and they locked up when manually rotating the drum. So at least we didn't make it worse
. Didn't get everything back together yet as one of the grease fittings broke off in the grease gun. So we will need to pick up another and replace it. Then we can do a little tow test while activating the brakes and slowly increase the strength and see if both wheels start to lock up at the same time
Tested the brakes by pulling the brake away switch and they locked up when manually rotating the drum. So at least we didn't make it worse
. Didn't get everything back together yet as one of the grease fittings broke off in the grease gun. So we will need to pick up another and replace it. Then we can do a little tow test while activating the brakes and slowly increase the strength and see if both wheels start to lock up at the same time
Generally no, it was a joke in using magnets to secure the load to the trailer
Brake test performed. They worked well. Wasn't able to get them to lock up the wheels but they worked more evenly and didn't torque the trailer like before. Both sides got warm under heavy braking unlike before. I think we'll just accept that these brakes will always be on the weaker side and will never compete with my trailers hydraulic disc brakes
If the drums are adjusted correctly, check voltage at the hubs, magnets pull steady 3-4A . If the wire is too small you'll loose voltage... Magnets are constant amps variable voltage. In functions.
You're probably sub 8V at full power at the wheel which generally won't lock a 7k or smaller wheel up
Electric brakes weak links is the wires that supply voltage
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