If that kit really works I’ll buy one, I’ll look into them more deeply. I know suncoast has a complete valve body as well. Wonder if it’s any good?
Problem is the voltage is not following the charging profiles. I've had sustained voltages at 12.3 for extended periods. Really odd is truck for the first 363 days ran 13.6-13.8 on trips between Houston and Dallas or other locations. On Day 364 on the way to Florida it dropped to 12.8. Following Nephew back to Texas mine ran 12.8 (now it's down to 12.5) while his ran 13.6. His truck is a 2023 vs mine being a 2024 both L5P platforms and by all documentation I have access to they follow the same charging strategy.Im surprised they are looking at that voltage issue. Gm started using a different voltage strategy much like honda does a long while back on the gassers (not sure when they started this on diesels) but voltage will fluctuate from 12.5-15 depending on demand. Its another way to try to keep batteries alive longer and better mpg. Pretty sure my 2020 does it, never given it a second thought but ive had people bring me their gassers saying something is wrong with the voltage just like described and it’s operating as intended
My 2014 Regal had this. Im pretty sure the 2016 Colorado does, too. Its unsettling to see voltage that low. Makes one think the alternator is going bad.Im surprised they are looking at that voltage issue. Gm started using a different voltage strategy much like honda does a long while back on the gassers (not sure when they started this on diesels) but voltage will fluctuate from 12.5-15 depending on demand. Its another way to try to keep batteries alive longer and better mpg. Pretty sure my 2020 does it, never given it a second thought but ive had people bring me their gassers saying something is wrong with the voltage just like described and it’s operating as intended
The electrical architecture between your nephews truck and yours is completely different. Not positive that it changes the dynamics of the charging system, but I would bet it does.Problem is the voltage is not following the charging profiles. I've had sustained voltages at 12.3 for extended periods. Really odd is truck for the first 363 days ran 13.6-13.8 on trips between Houston and Dallas or other locations. On Day 364 on the way to Florida it dropped to 12.8. Following Nephew back to Texas mine ran 12.8 (now it's down to 12.5) while his ran 13.6. His truck is a 2023 vs mine being a 2024 both L5P platforms and by all documentation I have access to they follow the same charging strategy.
Dealerships and GM have their technicians programmed that if it's not throwing a computer code there is nothing to be fixed (probably changes the instant warranty runs out).
I don't know if they mod the valve body yet but they did say they have source for the new updated units.If that kit really works I’ll buy one, I’ll look into them more deeply. I know suncoast has a complete valve body as well. Wonder if it’s any good?
According to what I find, the charging parameters should be the same as to when it kicks in charge mode, startup mode, headlight mode, etc. Mine never enters Startup mode for starters, and charge mode is hit or miss.The electrical architecture between your nephews truck and yours is completely different. Not positive that it changes the dynamics of the charging system, but I would bet it does.
There is a electronic gizmo out there that once the access the gm data bus, they can reprogram a new key without the old one.I bought a GMC AT4 Storm Gray 2500 crew cab short bed 4x4 back in May 2024. I like the truck its really nice and has densest power for stock but the speed limiter could be a lot higher lol it now has 15.5k on it now but the other day it died while driving down the road at 70mph. I had a brand new spare fuel pump drive module in the toolbox given the history of them failing but it would not work on the side of the road for me. But after sitting over night it worked without needing a scan tool to manually turn it on. Yes mine will sometimes charge really well and other times not so. I do not pay it that much mind as long as the lights and batteries seem good. The dealership did a few updates when it was in for the failed FPDM and i noticed a decease in mpg but the power still seems to be there. It does not use much DEF at all compared to the newer 6.7 Fords which is a plus imo
I have been looking at valve body and pump kits of all kinds. The full NextGen setup looks pretty good but they do not mention anything about increasing main line pressure in the pump in there DIY kits. I believe they sale a complete pump and valve body setup that does increase main line pressure. I'm not sure if the 10 speed RatioTek kit does anything to the pump for more pressure like there earlier kits do. I know Suncoast will sale a modified pump and complete valve body that increases main line pressure. I think they all do away with the thermostat so full time cooler flow is achieved. I believe a TCM remap on the older ones 20-23 will get you another 40-50psi increase something like that. I'm sure there is a point where you can not add to much pressure to the stock torque converter
My biggest concern is the EGR gumming things up. I wonder if you could make/install a plate somewhere in the system to restrict some of it and it not geek out. I know it monitors flow and temperature so probably not
As for stealing them I'm pretty sure they have to pickup the key fob signal so the ignition can be fully turned on so the new fob can be programed. If a new fob is not wanted you get one time to start it and take it straight to the chop shop. Company's sale a box and little bags to put your key fobs in that blocks the ability from them picking up the signal to steal it. I have one and it works
FASS makes a DPF for the EGR system. I know, just what you want to add is more emissions equipment, but it actually makes a little sense. If you have to have the EGR, why not filter out the soot? What I'm not sure about is how you clean it since it doesn't have the capability to do a regen.My biggest concern is the EGR gumming things up. I wonder if you could make/install a plate somewhere in the system to restrict some of it and it not geek out. I know it monitors flow and temperature so probably not
VW had an EGR filter on their TDI 15 years ago, and it was 'quite problematic'... Hopefully the fass filter is better.Probably set up like an oil catch can for pcv system. Periodically you've got to take the cannister off and empty it. Might even have a filter to replace. About time someone came up with an idea like that.
As for having Valve body issues 2020-25 modules if you don't feel confident enough installing the complete 'Fix' Next Gen valve body kit they sale looks like you can send them your old valve body and they will 'fix' it and stand behind it
They use a different valve body.Why doesn’t the ford have this issue?