twin tuning help needed

Bdsankey

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They were bought by mee and im 1 million pecent shure they are bosch. injector modders are NOT the onley people to get bosch. I am an auto repair shop and I have suppliers that sell non amazon/rock auto stuff. Worldpac sells ONLEY to shops and they sell oem manufacture parts NOT oe ....O E M!

Because I can get a set of bosch remans cheaper than anyone could sell them for here ... As I stated I am a reseller and have connections to OI E M parts yep they were in bosch boxes in silver sealed plastic bags... same with my pumps. both bosch remans..


I bought the S&S nozzles advertised as 100 over from Kid Turbo on here... Yea i fucked up and stuck them on reman injectors and tossed them in the truck. after Enough coaxing from Zac F i pulled them out and had them balanced. 2 were off by 10 or 11 percent?
return quantity were
40.51/41.34/33.78/38.73/32.11/30.19/38.25/37.25 was the actual value in MM3/h I misplaced the other damed sheet of final fixed injectors results. but i know they were flowing some odd 67% or some shit not 100% over stock flow
These return rates seem high. The last few sets of injectors I've sold for an LBZ platform are around half that (15-22 mm3 on the return side) based on the flow sheets I have. That already isn't a good sign. What's the exact PN you ordered new, was it 0986435521SE or 0986435521? What wholesaler did you get them from? I ask because both of those PNs will come up in many WD's systems and are not always genuine Bosch because it is company X's remanufactured version of that PN and is thus listed under that same PN. If you don't want to openly state what WD that is no problem, just keep in mind what I listed above or shoot me a message.

The injectors were tested and set balance rates usung the Bosch EPS 200 PROTOCOL, Common rail injector test...
EPS 200 is a machine not a protocol, the testing parameters are set by the machine operator.

Carillo. zero gap rings. stage one cnc heads. RDL Manifolds and up pipes. so cal billet mains. the internals ae fine. its l the good shit lol
That's good, it's got some good parts. I just noticed they weren't in your signature and got concerned.






Based on everything above, I think your issue is going to come down to injectors or a tuning related issue as long as there are no boost/drive leaks. With the return values you're posting I question the validity of the remans or their origins.
 
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Bdsankey

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LOL. Im fucking estuped.. I do not see any leaks. I did have one at the back after stuck turbo..
You won’t see a boost leak, you have to pressurize the intake tract to find them. A PVC cap and an air hose nipple work great. Turn your regulator all the way down and start turning it up until you either hear/feel/see (soapy water) a leak or you reach close to your overall boost pressure.

With a PCV cap it can get a little sketchy, with that method I don’t usually go above 30-40psi.
 

Madspeed

Fat Bastard
Mar 22, 2007
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Elk Ridge Utah
You won’t see a boost leak, you have to pressurize the intake tract to find them. A PVC cap and an air hose nipple work great. Turn your regulator all the way down and start turning it up until you either hear/feel/see (soapy water) a leak or you reach close to your overall boost pressure.

With a PCV cap it can get a little sketchy, with that method I don’t usually go above 30-40psi.
If i had a boost leak would it not blow black smoke up top? cause it cleans up completley.... I can use my boost leak test kit instead LOL =)
I have one for auto and my employee / buddy has one for semi trucks
 

Madspeed

Fat Bastard
Mar 22, 2007
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I had a hole the size of half a dime in the bottom of my blocked off egr and it ran clean up top.
Ima see balance rates w my modis. ill push some air in it w soap
FWW it should pull HARD ande it does mildly better than my lighter twin turbod lb7 blazer makin 505 rwhp
 

Bdsankey

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did you happen to look at the log? its req x psi and achieving it.. there wont b leaks if it holds 26k psi under full tilt. I could be wrong but it would not make sense to me.
I don't know if the logs on your screen look any different than mine but your truck definitely IS NOT meeting its desired rail pressure targets.

In tune 1 your truck is calling for 29ksi and achieving ~25ksi.
1663198482162.png


In tune 5 log the truck is again commanding 29ksi and only achieving around 20ksi.
1663198324331.png

You have either a major issue with fuel supply to the CP3s, weak pumps, or a tune not letting the FCA current fall below where it is. Your PID list leaves quite a bit to be desired (as in it's lacking some MAJOR PIDs including TPS, desired/actual vane position, FCA current, anything trans related etc). Can you take another log with the PID list attached? That will paint us all a much better picture.
 

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Madspeed

Fat Bastard
Mar 22, 2007
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I don't know if the logs on your screen look any different than mine but your truck definitely IS NOT meeting its desired rail pressure targets.

In tune 1 your truck is calling for 29ksi and achieving ~25ksi.
View attachment 109926


In tune 5 log the truck is again commanding 29ksi and only achieving around 20ksi.
View attachment 109924

You have either a major issue with fuel supply to the CP3s, weak pumps, or a tune not letting the FCA current fall below where it is. Your PID list leaves quite a bit to be desired (as in it's lacking some MAJOR PIDs including TPS, desired/actual vane position, FCA current, anything trans related etc). Can you take another log with the PID list attached? That will paint us all a much better picture.
Im glad you pointed that out. I had it in passenger lap the other day and he said it matched. I logged these for Zac I never looked at them. wel fuck me silly..... I put a rail plug in it and I could not get it to start. put the stock relief valve in it and it started.... do I want the rail plug in the ppe dual feuller?
 

Bdsankey

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Im glad you pointed that out. I had it in passenger lap the other day and he said it matched. I logged these for Zac I never looked at them. wel fuck me silly..... I put a rail plug in it and I could not get it to start. put the stock relief valve in it and it started.... do I want the rail plug in the ppe dual feuller?

I don't think your issue is relief related as it starts to separate well before it would pop any OEM relief valve. You certainly could do a "bottle test" to see if that is your issue.

It also is an absolute DOG down low. Are you flashing this with a FlashScan or an AutoCal? If you're using a FlashScan I can send you a GM stock file and take a stab at MAF scaling. If you're using an AutoCal you can request a stock file with the MAF scaled for 5" intake from your tuner.


 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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I don't think your issue is relief related as it starts to separate well before it would pop any OEM relief valve. You certainly could do a "bottle test" to see if that is your issue.

It also is an absolute DOG down low. Are you flashing this with a FlashScan or an AutoCal? If you're using a FlashScan I can send you a GM stock file and take a stab at MAF scaling. If you're using an AutoCal you can request a stock file with the MAF scaled for 5" intake from your tuner.


don't forget to have the 4.56 gears and tires updated in the stock tune also
 

Madspeed

Fat Bastard
Mar 22, 2007
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I don't think your issue is relief related as it starts to separate well before it would pop any OEM relief valve. You certainly could do a "bottle test" to see if that is your issue.

It also is an absolute DOG down low. Are you flashing this with a FlashScan or an AutoCal? If you're using a FlashScan I can send you a GM stock file and take a stab at MAF scaling. If you're using an AutoCal you can request a stock file with the MAF scaled for 5" intake from your tuner.


I have efi live. I need a dual tank tune. I should have one already I can send u. I lost all my tune files when My hd crashed. I had every file available at the repository... now its all gone. can i just comand full pressure and see if it fills the bottle or need I drive it?
 

08lmm72mm

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I have efi live. I need a dual tank tune. I should have one already I can send u. I lost all my tune files when My hd crashed. I had every file available at the repository... now its all gone. can i just comand full pressure and see if it fills the bottle or need I drive it?
Try both, command will see if the relief pops driving WOT will see if your running out of fuel
 

Madspeed

Fat Bastard
Mar 22, 2007
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Try both, command will see if the relief pops driving WOT will see if your running out of fuel
Thanks for the info. Ill try it tomorrow. I know ive looked at the commanded and actual pressures b4 and they were spot on. I did however put the first Danville tune back in before I logged that to send of to tuner.. I decided to not send it because of a few personal reasons and I cant hahve it locked. still am playing with the fuel tank tuning for suburban. Not as simple as copy and paste the gas fuel tables. lol why IDK
Oh and I think I found all of my files. YAY
 

Bdsankey

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Thanks for the info. Ill try it tomorrow. I know ive looked at the commanded and actual pressures b4 and they were spot on. I did however put the first Danville tune back in before I logged that to send of to tuner.. I decided to not send it because of a few personal reasons and I cant hahve it locked. still am playing with the fuel tank tuning for suburban. Not as simple as copy and paste the gas fuel tables. lol why IDK
Oh and I think I found all of my files. YAY

Sadly nobody who tunes today is going to offer you an unlocked ECM file unless you write it yourself.
 

Chevy1925

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oval bowls are not the issue. you might get knocking from them but any smoke, knock, general differences from reg pistons BESIDES mpg can be adjusted and cleaned up. And even mpg cna be midigated with some other changes. cam might be an issue but only if the converter doesnt match it and its only going to be an issue when you get into the throttle decently before spool up has happened. i dont know where socal rates the rpm band of the stg 2 cam but the higher flowing heads should only help promote boost to come in faster. BUT if the cam is meant for more RPM, it will negate what the heads supply down low.

rail pressure can definitely be an issue here. i wouldnt rule out the FPRV, they can trail off with a weak spring.

i didnt go through your logs but do you have one specifically where the smoke is happening as you drive through town? WOT wont help much as thats not what your main concern is, correct?

vane position and fueling make up a huge part of smoke down low on your setup. it can be extremely picky on getting it right. Steve fought hard on an LBZ i built an engine for. it had stock cam but oval pistons, 60% over injectors, Danville 68, Precision ML converter, and bunch of other stuff. It was a fine line between too smokey but quick spool up and no smoke but laggy as hell. Alot was contributed to the 60% over tips put on stock bodies but the tips were used and injectors had 200k on them. Getting the vane position on the turbo was a bit of a fight as well because it didnt follow stock positions by any means. Steve talked with mark a few times and got a better game plan together that helped get it sorted out.

At the end of the day, you really gotta have someone sit in it and tune it. remote is only going to get you so close.