Oil priming after build - leave glow plugs out?

Sep 19, 2012
47
1
6
Hey Guys,

So it's been a slow process (primarily because of me) but I have the engine about ready to go back in. The machine shop said to leave the glow plugs out so I don't build pressure while I'm cranking the engine to oil prime it. I've read here to just leave the bail connectors undone, crank until you see oil pressure and you should be good to go?

Let me know. Thanks guys!

Casey
 

kidturbo

Piston Tester
Jul 21, 2010
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www.marinemods.us
Personally I'd go with machine shop way. Cranks faster, primes quicker with no cylinder pressure. But also pull ecm fuse or disconnect bail so as not to fire the injectors.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

DAVe3283

Heavy & Slow
Sep 3, 2009
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Boise, ID, USA
If you used a high quality assembly lube, you should be fine leaving the glow plugs in. I did mine that way when I built it, just unplugged the FICM fuse. But it is less stress on the engine to remove the glow plugs.

My engine was fired the day after it was assembled though. If yours has been sitting a long while, it's probably worth the effort to pull the glow plugs.
 

Bdsankey

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Feb 1, 2018
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I filled my oil pump with Schaefer’s moly ep, unplugged FICM plugs then watched for oil pressure on my cts2. Once I saw oil pressure I plugged the FICM back in and haven’t had any issues.

I left my glow plugs in.
 

torqued2dmax

Member
Mar 26, 2017
646
1
18
Brookville, PA
Hey Guys,

So it's been a slow process (primarily because of me) but I have the engine about ready to go back in. The machine shop said to leave the glow plugs out so I don't build pressure while I'm cranking the engine to oil prime it. I've read here to just leave the bail connectors undone, crank until you see oil pressure and you should be good to go?

Let me know. Thanks guys!

Casey
2 1/2 months thats not bad for that big of a project , welcome back !
 
Sep 19, 2012
47
1
6
Tom (thebac) made a garden sprayer with a fitting to the main oil gallery. Use the search it's here somewhere


I did see that, pretty cool but I think since I'm not really doing a lot of these, just this one hopefully, it would just sit around the garage afterwards.
 
Sep 19, 2012
47
1
6
2 1/2 months thats not bad for that big of a project , welcome back !

Thank you Sir. The machine shop had it like a month, maybe 5 weeks. I had them build it into a long block. Then it sat at my house until I bit the bullet and started cleaning everything up and bolting it back together. Glad I labeled everything and took a lot of pictures.

If you look at the project as a whole it is intimidating but if you do one thing at a time it really isn't a "hard job", just time consuming.


Now I'm working on bellhousing and torque converter bolts, FUN!
 

torqued2dmax

Member
Mar 26, 2017
646
1
18
Brookville, PA
Thank you Sir. The machine shop had it like a month, maybe 5 weeks. I had them build it into a long block. Then it sat at my house until I bit the bullet and started cleaning everything up and bolting it back together. Glad I labeled everything and took a lot of pictures.

If you look at the project as a whole it is intimidating but if you do one thing at a time it really isn't a "hard job", just time consuming.


Now I'm working on bellhousing and torque converter bolts, FUN!

Do not forget red loctite or coated bolts , new ones , on converter and keep up the good work !
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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I did see that, pretty cool but I think since I'm not really doing a lot of these, just this one hopefully, it would just sit around the garage afterwards.


A little Dawn dishsoap and hot water and the sprayer went back to being a sprayer. IIRC, I used it last to spray weed killer.


Thanks for the shout out, Brian. :)
 

torqued2dmax

Member
Mar 26, 2017
646
1
18
Brookville, PA
I thought it was blue loctite and torqued to 60lbs? Can you confirm it's red?

I intended on using the old bolts as I read several posts where others have done that.
I was going off of Mike Ls post , he said red or coated he sells them , new only , all I know is what he posted , but that was an old post thoughts may have changed !
 

torqued2dmax

Member
Mar 26, 2017
646
1
18
Brookville, PA
I thought it was blue loctite and torqued to 60lbs? Can you confirm it's red?

I intended on using the old bolts as I read several posts where others have done that.
Well I looked and looked and the only post I can find is the one of him saying if you use red you will need to apply heat to it prior to removal , sorry if I may have given you advice that is not current !
 

torqued2dmax

Member
Mar 26, 2017
646
1
18
Brookville, PA
Well I looked and looked and the only post I can find is the one of him saying if you use red you will need to apply heat to it prior to removal , sorry if I may have given you advice that is not current !
Yea , I just found it 12-07-2008 ,post #9 Mike L , blue is for gun sights only , use red with new bolts ! I about went crazy thinking I misread the post !
 

2004LB7

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
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Norcal
Well I looked and looked and the only post I can find is the one of him saying if you use red you will need to apply heat to it prior to removal , sorry if I may have given you advice that is not current !

I almost only use red and have rarely ever had to apply heat to remove any. Maybe on butter bolts you would need heat to keep from twisting the head off but on 10.9 or greater you won't
 

IdahoRob

New member
Jun 5, 2007
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I've always used red and never had to use heat to remove them. I'd recommend using new bolts, i've had used bolts shear off and screwed up the flex plate and zinged the engine to the moon.