how much to build your motor
- Thread starter J Spruill
- Start date
Very true! I was figuring a ball park cost but i was trying to include everything when I said 17k duel cp3, turbo ,pipeing ,gaskets
I dont have the luck! to reuseI used ARP where ever possible and upgraded everything I could!
Im trying to build a truck that will last and be a blast to drive
Heads and all the bells & high speed whistles= 3-4000 ish
cam 600 to 1100
oil pump 600
rods 2200 to 3200
pistons up to 3000+ iirc if you want the best from SoCal
machine work to block 300 to 3000
new bearings and wristpins 300-600
Turbo 1500 to 6000 including pedistall and down pipe and intake and filter
duel cp3s or modded pumps 150-4000
billlet main caps?
different oil system 88.00 to 1350.00
ARP 300 to 1200
new electrical fittings at 9:00 at night 72.00
all the lil money you spend that you never count up??????
It reall depends on your truck and how much you want/willing/allowed to spend? There are people that can do it for cheap but the average guys pay...Period
I would be willing to pay 4 times as much before I would be seen in a Dodge though
Yes are bottom end might not be as strong as the dodge but I want to build a motor that will last and drive a nice truck:angel: No offence to Dodge owners but your trucks are
I do say so. I know something about metal and its uses.
There are good Cummins rods and not so good rods. But why risk it. Buy good rods.
I do say so. I know something about metal and its uses.
ok ill stick with what works and ill probly see you this summer
ok ill stick with what works and ill probly see you this summer
Bring lots.
I am underpowered you know.:joker:
Bring lots.
I am underpowered you know.:joker:
i know:hug:
ill try to take it easy on yea
Dunno about Dodges, but shotpeening on other engines is a surface treatment that only affects the metal down to about .010". It stops cracks from starting but doesn't actually stop metal from bending since it doesn't make the metal any stronger. It just reduces the stresses caused by the faster cooling that the surface of a metal object gets when it's formed.
actually i was told my stock rods were good for 850-900 hp.after that some fail some dont.i did this motor to try some other things out and see how they work.
perhaps the best way to of asked the question would have been to ask about machining prices.didny want this to be a dodge vs dmax thread...
perhaps the best way to of asked the question would have been to ask about machining prices.didny want this to be a dodge vs dmax thread...
yea i just know ones of the biggest 3.0 truck is still running shotpeen rods and so am i and we still have not bent a set of rods or broke them in half. and the company i get my cummins parts from say you can use them in a truck running a unlimted single with ans open drive line. i asked if i needed the big rods and i was told no dont need them
My bill for parts from SoCal was about $12K. Misc to get the engine the rest of the way together, ~$5k. No turbo or dual fuelers in that cost.
You have to make sure they are the cumminGs rods they are better and will hold more HP!!:rofl::rofl:
for a complete shortblock ready to install with a 7.1 stroke kit,forged pistons, forged rods, and all the goodies including machine is a little over 20,000$ from Guy. IMHO if your going to build your engine why risk parts failing? Forged Pistons and Rods a worth their weight in gold.
Shot peening stock rods was something I did in high school when I didn't have enough money for the real stuff. The day I got a fulltime job I started using good parts. If I don't have the $ to build something right I DONT BUILD IT!
i would not shotpeen and condition a duramax rods. when it comes to a cummins rods they are much stronger than a duramax rods.
I've played with my fair share of cummins and I have seen several rods fail. Sure they are stronger than ours, but their damn rotating assembly weighs about as much as our whole motor:rofl: If someones going to put a lot of money into a motor and run close to the limits of a part....why not upgrade
I've played with my fair share of cummins and I have seen several rods fail. Sure they are stronger than ours, but their damn rotating assembly weighs about as much as our whole motor:rofl: If someones going to put a lot of money into a motor and run close to the limits of a part....why not upgrade
well trust me i have alot of money wrap up in it but when i was ordering parts from scheid diesel. dan scheid said it was not needed they have trucks running stock rods that have been shotpeen and conditioned with the same power i am running which is a unlimted single truck. which there truck has the same rods as mine stock. said it was a waste of money put it somewhere else.
guess its just a difference of oppinion, hope you have better luck with the rods than some of my friends did:hug:
they have over 2 seasons on stock rods and over 1000 hp have not failed yet so ill take his word on them and have other trucks doing the same thing.
If you are committed to use stock rods, shotpeening won't hurt, and we even shotpeened stock VW rods for "el cheapo" engines, simply because it's very inexpensive and does help stop cracks from starting on the big end.
But on rods that bend on the "beam" instead of cracking, especially if they are forged to begin with, there is no way the bending will stop. The treatment doesn't go deep enough to really do anything.
When chucking a rod can cost you thousands, if you are tearing the whole engine down, it's not good economy to leave the stock rods inside.
But on rods that bend on the "beam" instead of cracking, especially if they are forged to begin with, there is no way the bending will stop. The treatment doesn't go deep enough to really do anything.
When chucking a rod can cost you thousands, if you are tearing the whole engine down, it's not good economy to leave the stock rods inside.