Good info on the design
Bought a Cruze
- Thread starter malibu795
- Start date
James.
seams I've got a problem with #2 and #3 in the first picture you posted, if the -1.5kpa to 4kpa is the desired case pressure.. 4kpa is 0.58 psi... It should not be making the fill cap dance like it is,
#5 is blocked thoroughly and engine runs smoother than before I started this mess lol
Educated gues that #2/#3 are in the item circled?
Seams some are serviceable others aren't
Or if there is something in this passage that's circle, that's restricting flow...
Or all the above
seams I've got a problem with #2 and #3 in the first picture you posted, if the -1.5kpa to 4kpa is the desired case pressure.. 4kpa is 0.58 psi... It should not be making the fill cap dance like it is,
#5 is blocked thoroughly and engine runs smoother than before I started this mess lol
Educated gues that #2/#3 are in the item circled?
Seams some are serviceable others aren't
Or if there is something in this passage that's circle, that's restricting flow...
Or all the above
Option Number 2 is always the Best course of action when in doubt....
The diaphragm in #2 eventually blows out due to crankcase pressure, pressure that is there bc the check valve that you plugged earlier stops working or crumbles. Because the intake will alternately show pressure or vacuum, there HAS to be a check valve in the system.
As I said before, you got lucky the dealer changed out the valve cover, so you've got a fresh PCV diaphragm now, but its not going to last for very long unless you add a new check valve externally.
Basically, the kit replaces the corrugated hose from the turbo check valve connector to the top of the intake above where you plugged it with a new rubber hose, which midway has a "T" fitting that attaches a smaller hose to a check valve that then attaches to another "T" at the emissions solenoid vacuum line up behind the intake. Its those two check valves that keep the PCV system operating properly.
It sounds weird, but it works. Im not an engineer, so I cant explain it much better than that. I ran that kit of two cars that totaled well over 40,000 miles, and the PCV system was working as it should throughout.
Read this: https://www.cruzetalk.com/threads/2011-2016-cruze-limited-1-4l-pcv-system-explained.175793/
As I said before, you got lucky the dealer changed out the valve cover, so you've got a fresh PCV diaphragm now, but its not going to last for very long unless you add a new check valve externally.
Basically, the kit replaces the corrugated hose from the turbo check valve connector to the top of the intake above where you plugged it with a new rubber hose, which midway has a "T" fitting that attaches a smaller hose to a check valve that then attaches to another "T" at the emissions solenoid vacuum line up behind the intake. Its those two check valves that keep the PCV system operating properly.
It sounds weird, but it works. Im not an engineer, so I cant explain it much better than that. I ran that kit of two cars that totaled well over 40,000 miles, and the PCV system was working as it should throughout.
Read this: https://www.cruzetalk.com/threads/2011-2016-cruze-limited-1-4l-pcv-system-explained.175793/
I'm starting to think the dealer just changed the valve cover gasket vs the whole thing..
I pulled the PCV/CCV diagram from his thread you linked.
Gues I need a vac/boost gauge to answer the question, if the intake spends more time under boost or vacuum.
Personally, I think it's the former vs the latter.
If that's true, the check valve in the Intake is closed more time than it spends open.. which really makes the check valve going into the intake irrelevant on function as majority of the vapor is going to the turbo inlet under normal driving functions.
And a check valve is only needed if you want to use intake manifold vacuum to put a vacuum on the crankcase which the check valve protects the crankcase from excessive pressure via boost.
If the intake check valve fails thus allowing boost in the crank case, logic would say that's major contributing factor for the VC diaphragm failure as further logic would state it's not designed for that much sustained case pressure.
I see they have metal valve covers available I'll get one if those in order
I pulled the PCV/CCV diagram from his thread you linked.
Gues I need a vac/boost gauge to answer the question, if the intake spends more time under boost or vacuum.
Personally, I think it's the former vs the latter.
If that's true, the check valve in the Intake is closed more time than it spends open.. which really makes the check valve going into the intake irrelevant on function as majority of the vapor is going to the turbo inlet under normal driving functions.
And a check valve is only needed if you want to use intake manifold vacuum to put a vacuum on the crankcase which the check valve protects the crankcase from excessive pressure via boost.
If the intake check valve fails thus allowing boost in the crank case, logic would say that's major contributing factor for the VC diaphragm failure as further logic would state it's not designed for that much sustained case pressure.
I see they have metal valve covers available I'll get one if those in order
Yeah, theres a metal cover available now, but it still has the same weak PCV system.
I made my recommendations. Im out.
I made my recommendations. Im out.
You really need to replace that check valve. Either by way of a new intake or an alternate option like Tom mentioned... But just plugging that hole isn't a good idea. Like Tom said, I've said my part. Over and out.
Definitely had a substantial oil leak(s) before I got it..
New aluminum valve cover that I can breathe through the PCV easier than a dual mask with P100 filters.
Pulled plugs checked them, holes had decent oil in them, used shop vac and shop air to clean them, gaps run 025-028" all dry threads
coat of silver antisieze re installed
Plugs where AC 41-121 55585517.. not "new" but don't look like they have 114k on them either..
Pretty sure the turbo plastic oil drain tube is cracked and weeping.
I Inside the VC PCV the diagram stays open unless there enough vacuum being pulled through the center raised port to close it. . There is still case pressure but substantially less now with the new cover at idle.
The 12V cigarette lighter and USB-A chargers suck and charging my phone...
So..Been friends with a guy off here that had a SAS lifted dmax about and hour from me.. he's pre big into 3D printing. He's made few things over the years for me..
Having him turn that useless change cubby into something. Been using these 12V to USB -A or C 60W chargers on my older stuff.
Have him make a mount for it.
Next on the list is the turbo oil drain... And IDK how much of the exhaust is going to get swapped out as well
New aluminum valve cover that I can breathe through the PCV easier than a dual mask with P100 filters.
Pulled plugs checked them, holes had decent oil in them, used shop vac and shop air to clean them, gaps run 025-028" all dry threads
coat of silver antisieze re installedPlugs where AC 41-121 55585517.. not "new" but don't look like they have 114k on them either..
Pretty sure the turbo plastic oil drain tube is cracked and weeping.
I Inside the VC PCV the diagram stays open unless there enough vacuum being pulled through the center raised port to close it. . There is still case pressure but substantially less now with the new cover at idle.
The 12V cigarette lighter and USB-A chargers suck and charging my phone...
So..Been friends with a guy off here that had a SAS lifted dmax about and hour from me.. he's pre big into 3D printing. He's made few things over the years for me..
Having him turn that useless change cubby into something. Been using these 12V to USB -A or C 60W chargers on my older stuff.
Have him make a mount for it.
Next on the list is the turbo oil drain... And IDK how much of the exhaust is going to get swapped out as well
Attachments
Well after almost 6000 miles popped a P0324 Knock Control System Error...
Any noises?
Only issue is I have had the engine lay over HP wise randomly above 80° ambient temp, read somewhere some times the OEM is is a lot aggressive for 87 been running 93 and it solved 95% of the issue
Bought some spark plugs.. went cold heat range by 3 steps... OEM is NGK-2666/ AC delco 41-121 (6)I put in NGK 2669 plugs..
Might be burning some oil..
Might be burning some oil..
Certainly looks like burning oil. What's the reason for going with colder plugs?