8.1 to dmax 3500 HD GMT-400 body

[malibu795]

Yeah seems like people on there think that fuel is free or something, i've looked a few times but when I calculated it out most of the hauls weren't worth it. I've been kicking the idea around of seeing if there were any short hauls from northern indiana rv capital to the tri state area since im up that way every wknd, what would be required to do that?

call them up they will tell you want you need they esentially do what i did.. the problem with rv haulin is you rarely have a back haul.. so the 1.50 you got going out has to cover coming back.

the company i work for is in with the big trucks and picks up partials(LTL)and provides same or next day service with in a 700 mile radius,
on the mower haul i didnt make a lot of money off it due to dead head miles but it paid for fuel, food and hotel and got me home while being little on the black side of the line.
for quick math then 6.5 was costing ~.50cpm at 9mpg the dmax is is ~.29cpm
so quick math for 1000miles the 6.5 would cost $500 in fuel were as the dmax cost me $290 in fuel.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Sounds like your 6.5 was in ill health from the get go. I got right at 11.5 towing a 22' box trailer that weighed about 6K but is very tall running 70, the same trailer at the same speeds with my LB7 is right at 12. I did go from 4.10 gears with the 6.5 to 3.42's with the DURAMAX though, but still not a huge differrence regardless. Empty went from 18 to 21, but I think the gears made the biggest differrence in that department.

 

[bigmackmiller]

call them up they will tell you want you need they esentially do what i did.. the problem with rv haulin is you rarely have a back haul.. so the 1.50 you got going out has to cover coming back.

the company i work for is in with the big trucks and picks up partials(LTL)and provides same or next day service with in a 700 mile radius,
on the mower haul i didnt make a lot of money off it due to dead head miles but it paid for fuel, food and hotel and got me home while being little on the black side of the line.
for quick math then 6.5 was costing ~.50cpm at 9mpg the dmax is is ~.29cpm
so quick math for 1000miles the 6.5 would cost $500 in fuel were as the dmax cost me $290 in fuel.

Ok I'll give them a shout and see what they say, thanks for the info :thumb:

 

[malibu795]

had an issue of lacke of suffiecnt brake monday on long island ny though i was able to keep form lettign a big truck(full size day cab car hauler) drag his trailer over the front of my truck (i was even with his trailer tires), though i wasnt able to keep from rear ending him. and only my trailer tires barely left marks. the prodigy P2 work on the tow vehicles decell rate. rolling less then 9 tons everything should have locked up! before this happen i have bleeded the entire brake systems runing 1qt of new fluid through both front and rear systems each. i had boiled the brake fluid in stop in go traffic friday. brake fluid was black when i checked it, it is now clear.
so with that embarresment said.. time to up grade brake system or make it right.
from what i have found the front and rear are identical size wise rotor dia and caliber...
front runs strictly 5 hole vs rears 10 hole.
MC bore is 1.25" and disc/disc setup running 1/2-20 primary and 9/16-18 secondary. IDk why the front is bigger.. my 02 had a 37mm (1.44") bore 1/2-20 on both systems.. also the wrecker system runs dual 2.6" piston vs the single 3.5?" that the non wrecker has.
the idea is use the GMT800 MC which will reduce brake application time and increase hyd pressurre on the caliber pistons. upgrade to then dual piston which will increace additonal force on to the pads.
before some of you start yelling that im messing up read the following. read the insert that i typed up while back on a malibu forum aat the end of the post.
i have done similar swap/upgrdae on my 75 K20. first up graded to hydro boost. then i went from a hydro 1 1/8" bore MC to a 1 5/16" MC pedal travel was cut roughly in half from ~1" to 1/2" to apply the brakes. and much more brakeing force with less effort on me.
i have a hard time beliveing that there is a disc.drum MC on my truck right now. i also have the JF9 system it is 13.86/13.58 disc/disc were as the JB8 is 12.5 disc and 13x2.5 drum later is the most common

im looking more to mechanics of it.. speed of the brakes applieing and hyd forcce one can create.
if we remove hyd/vac booster(which adds addition applied force to MC piston) and say an avg man can apply 600lb of force on the MC piston and an avg stroke of the piston is 0.75" and to simplifiy things for debating purpose its a single piston MC so volume is stroke (.75")x bore= in3
so the formula for HYD force is piston area x force applied to piston. IE 10LB applied to 1sqin =10psi.
knowing that with the mechanical force and oem brake pedal and avg person can apply 600lb of force to the MC pushrod. i will keep that as a constant. and the max stroke distance of .75" constant as well though it would on refer to speed at which the brakes can be applied in realtion to the brake pedal moving.

i am leaving out HYD/VAC booster since both very drasticly based on engine vaccum/power steering pump pressure setting. all they do is supply addition regulated force to what ever your foot is appling to the MC thus allowing the operator to have to push less harder on the pedal to reach suffiecent pressure to slow the vehicle. it is much simpler to discuse a basic manual system and would like your opinion on HYD pressure one can create at the MC.

a 7/8" bore has 2.74sqin 600lb will generate 1644psi of HYD force
a 24mm bore has 2.96sqin 600lb will generate 1776psi of hyd force.
a 1 1/16 bore has 3.33sqin 600lb will generate 2000psi of hyd force.
a 36mm bore has 4.45sqin 600lb will generate 2600psi of hyd force.

like your thumb tac example i am only talking about the part you press your thumb on. i know fo fact that the rear wheel cylinders are .75" bores which is 2.35sqin this would be pin part of the tac. with the smallest bore info i posted this wheel cylinder wouldl generate 3863lb of mechanical force against the rear brake shoes. this results in the MC having to travel 85% of the distance the wheel cylinder has to travel before making contact with the drum. this transelate into long brake pedal travel.

pedal feel and travel. a smaller MC piston will be easier to push then a larger piston the downside to smaller driving piston is it have to travel farther to net same travel results from the wheel cylinder then a larger driving piston.
the weird thing is the smaller MC the operator will actually be pushing harder on the smaller driving psiton to get sufficent force to stoping force at the brakes then the larger MC.

heres an example keeping the same 3/4" dia wheel cylinder lets hypotheticly say 3800lb of mech force locks up the rear tires and 3500lb is considered a hard stop. from 2 pharagraph up we already know if an operator has a 7/8 bore MC he is goign to need appliy 541lb of force on the MC via the brake pedal with the MC traveling 85% of hte distance the wheel cylinder has to travel.
if the operator has a 1 1/16 bore the operator will only have to apply 447lb to the MC via brake pedal. this MC only has to travel 70% of the distance the wheel cylinder has to travel.

with that said it would be evident to say the bigger MC allows for quicker application of the brakes and with less pressure applied via the operator to reach the hard braking threshold.

with those examples its clear to say a bigger MC will increase braking capability if everything else remains constant in the HYD brake system...

now the booster reduce the amount of force the operator has to put to the MC via the brake pedal.
a 7" diapharm with 15inhg applied to it will generate max of 1271psi of regualted force on the MC thus drasticly reducing the amount force the operator has to applie via the brake pedal.
a HYD boost is much more the power steering pump is set between 900-1000psi at the pressure releif valve operating is about 850psi with a 1 1/4 bore in the booster with a max applied pressure of 3336psi of regulated force that can be applied to the MC on top of what the operator applies.

 

[malibu795]

hmm two weeks since last post..
got the dual pistons on the rear along with new pads and new master cylinder.. big difference truck stops hard then the trailer does with brakes all the way up.. havent upgrade the front to dual piston yet.. but will

only thing i had recently was shorted the power wire for the invertor before the fuse some how 6" from the battery fuse is 8"... 10ga wire melted the bat/frame 10ga then arc'd though both fuel line and tranny line back to the engine (which has dual 2/0 grounds to bat post)blowing holes in both lines. pulled over to check out the faint electric smell and found both fuel and tranny fluid poreing out.. only nice thing i was 10 miles from the summit racign store in talmadge. 270.00 tow bill and 100.00 in tools and parts..waited for tow truck for 3 hours and had the truck up and run in 2

its a blessing the truck didnt go up in smoke

 

[RKTMech]

:thumb: keep on truckin

 

[malibu795]

well apparently the 4l80 flexplate is the week link here.. still runing stock fueling broke tuesday back up and running now.. also broke the boss on the flywheel.. put a new flywheel and allison flexplate( same thickness and mounting surffaces) on there is ~.060" clearance between then flex pate and TC when tightened down

 

[KEVINL]

cool build

 

[RPM Motorsports]

That's a wall hanger for sure! Just sent you a tx back..

 

[Alaska_AV]

wow....

 

[malibu795]

Idk if you guys notice but the Allison plate isn't stepped like the 80 plate is... imo it being stepped was its downfall

 

[malibu795]

been to wyoming and back did really good.. except high speed cruising with 4.63 gears... made mountians into ant hills stupid quick though..
finished getting dual piston all the way around.. heres and idea how big the suckers are.. only thing left is to increase front brake line between MC and the PV from 3/16 to 1/4 should help with the need for increase volume in then front
stock left 3.25" wrecker version right dual 2.6" pistons

 

[malibu795]

i got to figure out how to wire both brake and abs warning lights to come on and go off. they are switched ground circuits..

ABS is not plugged in and i dont want it plugged it! hate that stuff. and test have proven you stop quicker with out it.

abs c# 867
bwl c# 33

all they have todo is come on for ~2 seconds when igniton is moved to "run" then go off or go off when the engine is started

 

[malibu795]

i got to figure out how to wire both brake and abs warning lights to come on and go off. they are switched ground circuits..

ABS is not plugged in and i dont want it plugged it! hate that stuff. and test have proven you stop quicker with out it.

abs c# 867
bwl c# 33

all they have todo is come on for ~2 seconds when igniton is moved to "run" then go off or go off when the engine is started

seams a time deley relay is what i am after... and i got grangier just down the road

 

[duratothemax]

i got to figure out how to wire both brake and abs warning lights to come on and go off. they are switched ground circuits..

ABS is not plugged in and i dont want it plugged it! hate that stuff. and test have proven you stop quicker with out it.

abs c# 867
bwl c# 33

all they have todo is come on for ~2 seconds when igniton is moved to "run" then go off or go off when the engine is started

Oh really? What tests would those be? In a perfectly straight line on snow or dirt road? (or any loose surface that allows the road material to be "packed up" in front of the locked wheel) Because those are the ONLY conditions you will actually really be able to stop "faster" without ABS.

And BTW, the whole point of ABS isnt really "to stop in a shorter distance". Its so you actually have control during that hard stop. With ABS, you can stop/brake hard while swerving around an obstacle.

Ill put up 500 bucks that I can stop my truck in a sweeping corner road course (IE, a real world scenario) WAYYYYY before you can even think about stopping your rig.

 

[malibu795]

Oh really? What tests would those be? In a perfectly straight line on snow or dirt road? (or any loose surface that allows the road material to be "packed up" in front of the locked wheel) Because those are the ONLY conditions you will actually really be able to stop "faster" without ABS.

And BTW, the whole point of ABS isnt really "to stop in a shorter distance". Its so you actually have control during that hard stop. With ABS, you can stop/brake hard while swerving around an obstacle.

Ill put up 500 bucks that I can stop my truck in a sweeping corner road course (IE, a real world scenario) WAYYYYY before you can even think about stopping your rig.

if you lock you brakes up your goign to fast for the conditions.
also have experience loosing complete brakeing due to ABS when and axle bounced over a speed bump.. and resulted in almost hitting a stationary object.. never would have happened in a non abs vehilce due to the front tires never loosing braking. not to mention in a spin and all 4 tires stop turning it does NOTHING. i have had abs throw my 04 grand am into a spin when i applyed light braking in a corner.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system

A June 1999 National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) study found that ABS increased stopping distances on loose gravel by an average of 22 percent.
While ABS offers improved vehicle control in some circumstances, it can also present disadvantages including increased braking distance on slippery surfaces such as ice, packed snow, gravel, steel plates and bridges,
In the USA, the NHTSA has repeatedly considered mandating anti-lock brakes on light vehicles, but has held off due to concerns over testing procedures and real-world crash data that failed to meet expectations

 

[duratothemax]

if you lock you brakes up your goign to fast for the conditions.

bwaahaha right.

also have experience loosing complete brakeing due to ABS when and axle bounced over a speed bump.. and resulted in almost hitting a stationary object.. never would have happened in a non abs vehilce due to the front tires never loosing braking.

you must have been going too fast for the conditions.

not to mention in a spin and all 4 tires stop turning it does NOTHING.

I have no idea what you are trying to get at here.

i have had abs throw my 04 grand am into a spin when i applyed light braking in a corner.

you must hvae been going too fast for conditions. In which case having no ABS would have done the same thing.

A June 1999 National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) study found that ABS increased stopping distances on loose gravel by an average of 22 percent.

OH MY GOD 22 PERCENT NO WAY! That was in 1999. You think ABS technology has evolved/improved at all in THIRTEEN YEARS?

You do what you want, and other people here can help you if they want. But I can tell you right now you arent going to get one thread of advice from me about how to deceitfully disable the ABS in your truck while still giving it the appearance that its working to fool DOT guys.

ben

 

[malibu795]

bwaahaha right.



you must have been going too fast for the conditions.

right when the rear axle of a pickup bounces..

I have no idea what you are trying to get at here.

when all 4 tires stop turning and the car is still moving... abs is usuless.

you must hvae been going too fast for conditions. In which case having no ABS would have done the same thing.

i wasnt.. i pull then abs fuse and did the corner excat same and had no problem.. ABS is activated by brake light signal..

OH MY GOD 22 PERCENT NO WAY! That was in 1999. You think ABS technology has evolved/improved at all in THIRTEEN YEARS?

You do what you want, and other people here can help you if they want. But I can tell you right now you arent going to get one thread of advice from me about how to deceitfully disable the ABS in your truck while still giving it the appearance that its working to fool DOT guys.

ben

for trucks with hyd brakes and manufactured after march 1 1999 are required to have abs lights... mine was made dec 1998, ABS doesnt apply to my current truck.. its simpler to have a working light then arguing with a DOT officer at a scale house about weather or not rule X applies to your vehicle. which results in pissing him off and he holds you till he finds something wrong

 

[duratothemax]

ok fine here ya go.

http://www.elkproducts.com/product-catalog/elk-960-delay-timer-module

 

[z79outlaw]

I want to watch Adam and Kyle 01duramax6spd take on Ben in a debate on the merits of solid axles, ABS, tires with tread vs bald tires you guys are always entertaining.