2002 FE9

N2BRK

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Dec 31, 2009
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I was going to hold off until I started installing the fun stuff, but what the hell! lol.

After deciding I’d had it with the NJ constabulary and their stupid target fixation with d_let_d trucks, I sold my beloved LMM. Some days I think it was for the best and most days I regret it.

I bought a 2002 Silverado 2500HD CC/SB 4x4 and made damned sure it has no factory emissions; hence FE9 RPO.

She’s rougher than I wanted, but in this used car climate I couldn’t get what I wanted and I got sick of not having a truck! 200k, new cp3 and injectors, new brakes including hard lines and hoses, and various other boring things done by the PO. He also had some rot attended to - poorly :( One rear wheel arch done, both cab corners, and both rockers were done. One wheel arch and both front fenders are close to blowing through. He also had new bed rails welded in and had the frame underneath sanded and painted while it was off. The interior was in great shape albeit a little smelly.

So far, to my recollection:

Replaced what looked like original cabin filters 🤮 and had a detail shop clean inside and run an ozone machine. I also cleaned the ducts and core - huge difference!

Stupid little shit like most door switches etc. All window regulator motors and tracks. Took out intake heater. New tensioner, idlers, belt.

Some cosmetic and convenience items - bed rail skins, tonneau cover, rear tailgate latch camera, new dash panel and double din stereo, new windshield wiper arms and blades etc.

It came with black aftermarket wheels that I hated. I swapped someone with a nice set of PYO.

4 new Fox reservoir shocks.
S&B body mounts
PPE Silicone motor mounts
Completely new ac system minus condenser.
Reused my old Edge and added some sensors. Added jounce bumpers back to the truck - old ones were so gone that all that was left was a mashed rusted remain of a mounting bolt.

I know a host of other shit… but nothing exciting yet.

I’m warming up.

Logan at Diesels Unlimited did his 750hp build and I had him add a billet Input shaft. A Goerend Dk was also installed. For now she has an old +220hp tune installed.

I have purchased and waiting to go on… some used and some new:
WCFab Compound Kit with ceramic coated S475 and blanket. FASS 250gph and their new sump. Kryptonite weld on large gusset and idler box. Rate’s pitman and idler. DHD lower control arm bracket and centerlink bracket. PPE tie rods. SPC adjustable upper ball joints. FLUIDAMPR and I’ll use my Empire kit to pin it. Exergy 12mm. S&S 65 over nozzles in SAC. PPE uppipes with Levi’s blankets. Dsp5 switch.

Some things worthy of note:

Brake pedal kickback coming to a stop was from the pass front sensor. Sensor itself was fine, the build up of corrosion was the issue. Merchant has a video instructing how to clean and reinstall.

Truck randomly and occasionally blanks out the dash but runs perfectly and doesn’t skip a beat. The trans temp gauge is on the Fritz, so maybe the cluster needs some r&r.

I had a security issue but relearning my keys made it go away and it hasn’t come back. I plan to snip the wires and solder in a resister and relearn, to eliminate this in the future.

2 full rows of my serp belt ripped off! I didn’t find any smoking gun, so I replaced idlers and tensioner and belt last night (all gates incl their HD green belt), and so I hope the old belt was not only old and worn but maybe the wrong length and it was committing suicide for no other reason. I’ll be watching the new one! PS pump pulley and others look fine.

I’m trying to decide about the FICM. Do I want to re-route the cooling fuel like Tony (Moonshine) recommends? Do I want to just cut the ends and run out to the new cp3 - if I do, I should add a post filter… more crap under the hood. Or run a little diesel pump off a Kubota from the tank to the Ficm and return to tank… overly complicated I know.

I KNOW I’m forgetting a lot that I’ve done in the past couple months, as well as what else is in my treasure trove of parts! I’ll update as I can and try to add pictures as she progresses.

- Wally
 

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N2BRK

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Dec 31, 2009
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Trans mount - forgot that one. It was shot!
Floor liners and a duha behind seat bin, lol.

Old stereo had some nifty PO wiring! Oh they reminds me, I also did a brake controller and found some crazy shit PO wiring from the old one left behind too. Hahaha.

The tailgate was rotted out. I found a take off and it’s great!
 

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darkness

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Jul 15, 2009
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I vote moving the FICM off the engine and running the fuel lines straight from the filter to the CP3
For sure this. Mine doesn’t have fuel in it and it has survived Phoenix and Vegas summers without issue. It really cleans things up too. I can send a pic of my set up when I get back. Sean (Oregondmax) did it when he owned it. I haven’t moved it off the engine but honestly it isn’t in the way of anything.
 

N2BRK

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Dec 31, 2009
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It’s ok on a daily driver? I’d love to do that, and see pix - thanks!
 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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It’s ok on a daily driver? I’d love to do that, and see pix - thanks!
I ran mine outside the case and checked the temperature of each compartment. All where cool enough to touch. The warmest part was the voltage regulator at maybe 120f. These run at a lower temperature then the engine or fuel. Infact none of the electronics even contact the case to shed heat away.
 
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N2BRK

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Ok, a little bitch session on PPE’s stage 3 tie rods.

I have to think that maybe these are the specs they sent China, and it was prior to coating the rod, etc. The sizes in the destructions are laughably wrong. I made corrections. I used metric and sae to find the best fit, except for the body where it’s supposed to be 1-1/8” and my set stops at 1-1/4” and still wasn’t big enough. I’ll just use an adjustable of course.

PPE - here’s the spec we need you to copy… err build, thanks guys. Cool fireworks btw!

Chin’er - We give round-eye whatever we have.

Consumer - typical.
 

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N2BRK

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Believe me, this was after the barrage of “colorful metaphors”, HAHA. After the first couple specs were wrong, it became comical and I took notes knowing I’d post here to share.
 
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NC-smokinlmm

<<<Future tuna killer
May 29, 2011
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Wish I hadn’t ever sold my 01 fed emissions. It was tits. Miss that old rig. Love what your doing brother! Keep it coming with the updates please sir.
 

N2BRK

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Dec 31, 2009
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Thanks, I will! I walked to work today and it's 15* - feels like 4*. Not going to get much done on her after work in the driveway today, lol.
 

N2BRK

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Dec 31, 2009
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Last night driving home, the cluster decided to have one more Christmas hurrah; damned near every light came on. Security light came back on (had this problem right after I bought it, and re-learn “fixed” it.

The trans temp was always flaky and the dash occasionally would flake out and come right back on - no interruption in the driving experience though.

So I froze my ass off wiring a resister and relearning the security. No change. The light is still on and the truck still starts right up like there’s no problem.

So the dash current shows: abs, seatbelt, red voltage lamp, service 4wd, no charging/volts, no coolant temp, security, no fuel. I went to an unplowed lot and verified that 4wd and ABS are both working just fine :) The coolant temp reads fine on my Edge too.

So I think I’ll have the cluster fixed and then see if there are any more errors being reported to deal with.

If you ignore the dash, she runs like a top! lol

I also scored some ARP studs today on Marketplace. $200 and they were installed and removed but never run. They look new enough to me 🤷🏼‍♂️😊. Add em to the pile of parts!
 

N2BRK

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Dec 31, 2009
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Great success today. I needed it after my new trans just threw a P0777 last night.

A few weeks ago, the semi-possessed cluster went bat shit crazy, never to return to normal. This morning I decided to dedicate a little time to doing some electrical PM and figured I’d pull the cluster to ship for repair.

PM: I removed, cleaned, and reinstalled several suspicious grounds. I found all to have paint under them, som glad that I did this. They are: under driver’s feet and near radiator support on frame. I also know that people complain about the engine ground to body, so I ran a strap from the firewall to a bolt threaded into the unused second alternator bracket. Lastly, I read someone taking about problems when the grounding is bad from under the driver’s side a-pillar, so I ran a ground from there to the body. It might be a gasser thing, but it can’t hurt.

Dash repair: I pulled the dash and I’d been reading a lot and watching some videos on its repair. I decided to search some more, and I’m glad that I did. Short story - I added a ground to the wire A8 (black w/white stripe) on the connector to the cluster. I grounded it to the body. Voila!!! ALL FIXED! The video I watched wasn’t exactly right In diagnosing my problems, but he talked about losing ground and tapping in to that wire… made sense! So I tried it. I do have concerns about making a ground loop, but I could always go back in and snip the OEM ground wire if something goes awry.

Anyway, I’m thrilled and saved some time and money. I hope someone with a bad 2002 cluster reads this and finds help some day. This bad ground cased me to have a ton of cluster malfunctions!
 

N2BRK

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Dec 31, 2009
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I worked my ass off today so I could take off tomorrow from work. Probably my last day for the next couple months. I am borrowing an indoor spot a 1/2hr away to install:
Torsion bar bushings
Upper and lower ball joints
Pitman arm
Idler arm
Idler
Forged centerink
Tie rods
Sway bar end links
Weld in gusset when I get back home to weld
DHD brace
DHD LCA bracket
Steering damper

Should be a little better for the effort! Lol
 
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N2BRK

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Didn’t get to the torsion bar bushings. But got the rest done. Might have to wait until May. Phone, drop offs, and emails were on fire today at work.
 

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N2BRK

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Dec 31, 2009
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Didn’t get any pics but I had a need for the mini ductor I bought at a shop going out of business; sway bar bushing mounting bolts were big-time seized. That ductor was amazing. Cherry hot and sizzling and instantly OUT! I’m sure I’ll need it a lot on this old girl. lol.
 
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N2BRK

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Work took off like crazy (thank God!) and I didn’t get a chance to lift a finger on the poor girl. She’s been sitting parked on a battery tender.

This weekend I spent some time screwing with the adjustable upper ball joints and it ended in total frustration! I’m on 265/75/16’s with PYO’s; basically stock. No matter how I clocked the joints and their pressed in collar, I could not get correct alignment without rubbing the tire to UCA at full lock. In my last truck I had none of this trouble with the same upper adjustable ball joints! It has to be thet my straight centerlink stopped steering sooner and I never hit the UCA. Or maybe the 17” Boulder h2 wheels helped? I don’t know, but after to 1/2 days of f screwing around and aligning the truck over and over again, I’m 100% sure that these will not work with my truck. So I ordered up some Kryptonite UCArms and their ball joints.

Fingers crossed, on Tuesday I plan to get the truck up to my buddy’s shop. We are going to lift the body and then some fun starts :)

Oh, worth mentioning - the newer Fluidampers do not allow the old pin fixtures to fit inside to drill and add a roll pin. Luckily I found this out a few days ago before I went to slap it on. Simple enough to turn down on the lathe and make it fit, but it won’t fit unless you do that.

Hopefully more to report in a week or two.
 

1FastBrick

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Dec 1, 2016
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It sucks when we don't get enough time for these projects and then to add insult to injury it doesn't go as planned.

I been feeling a similar pain on trying to build a DIY engine stand to hold my engine from the sides so I can install the rear plate and the oil pan.
 
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