03 LB7 Build

[Bdsankey]

@Bdsankey Brad - could he just be starting to run out of cp3? 60 over LB7's should be right at the top of the scale for a 10mm, no? I have 65 overs and went to a 12mm and FASS 250.

It's very possible which is why I want to see what regulator current is doing. A quality PID list should have that on it IMO. If it's dropping below 600-650mA then I know it's commanding just about every drop of fuel that 10mm can produce. Depending on who's brand of pump and injectors he's right on the limit (if PPEI is pushing it hard enough). I tend to see north of 750-800whp on an Exergy 10mm myself so I don't quite think that's his problem.


A somewhat comparable truck a customer of mine has is an LB7 with a Stealth 67G2, my built trans, 10mm, LDS SAC65% and it's holding rail just fine and making some jam. I'll dig through his logs tonight and see what his pulse and current is looking like (I'll post the log file too).


I think I'm going to update my PID lists and make them public again on the page here. Even some tuning shops today aren't sending enough PIDs out with their quick setup files in my opinion.

 

[LB7StillAlive]

Well, I drove her home this weekend (1200mile trip). Plan on doing the first oil change this afternoon before the super bowl starts. In follow up to the rail pressure concerns, it did turn out to be a scaling issue with the LML fuel pressure sensor used on the DP customs fuel block, which stumped PPEI (they're going to purchase a block and figure it out). Ended up going with UDT, who performs most of DP custom's tuning, and the truck is holding rail in all tunes.

I'm super happy with it so far (honeymoon stage, so obvious statement). I haven't ventured into Tune 4 or 5 as of yet as Tune 3 keeps me smiling and pulls with conviction, if not with a bit of violence. The torque converter locks around 2000-2100rpm, and it's definitely stock stall as it starts pulling past the brakes around 1950-2000rpms. At the moment I love how it drives, so I'm good with it. I could see how a bigger stall would allow for more boost to build, but I don't have plans to drag it much, other than a couple passes to see what she produces. The S467.7 spools up quickly, it's making 7-8psi at 1800rpms, and jump at 2000-2100. The sound of the DHD long block setup produces a nice throaty gurgle/bark once you hit 2300rpms. I'll need to get traction bars as I can feel the wheel hop even at a 20mph roll when I send it.

I'm still learning EFI live, so I can pull a log file/PIDs (had to look up what that means, Parameter Identifications...did I get it correct?) if you'd still like to see them.

Tune 3 netted roughly 17.5mpg (manually calculated) at roughly 70-75mph which was roughly 2000-2100 rpms. Tune 1 netted roughly 18.5-19mpg, although it was pretty hilly through the portion I tested tune 1, so I'll do it again around Phoenix and see. I expect it to be less than the old stock motor, but do those figures seem about right?

 

[Bdsankey]

Well, I drove her home this weekend (1200mile trip). Plan on doing the first oil change this afternoon before the super bowl starts. In follow up to the rail pressure concerns, it did turn out to be a scaling issue with the LML fuel pressure sensor used on the DP customs fuel block, which stumped PPEI (they're going to purchase a block and figure it out). Ended up going with UDT, who performs most of DP custom's tuning, and the truck is holding rail in all tunes.

I'll be a bit honest here, if simply rescaling the rail pressure sensor stumped PPEI they need to put the keyboard down and walk away. It's literally adjusting table B0203 and that's it. This isn't the first time I've heard reports of PPEI being unable to handle even simply things. Blake writes some good tuning so you'll likely be pretty happy.

I'm super happy with it so far (honeymoon stage, so obvious statement). I haven't ventured into Tune 4 or 5 as of yet as Tune 3 keeps me smiling and pulls with conviction, if not with a bit of violence. The torque converter locks around 2000-2100rpm, and it's definitely stock stall as it starts pulling past the brakes around 1950-2000rpms. At the moment I love how it drives, so I'm good with it. I could see how a bigger stall would allow for more boost to build, but I don't have plans to drag it much, other than a couple passes to see what she produces. The S467.7 spools up quickly, it's making 7-8psi at 1800rpms, and jump at 2000-2100. The sound of the DHD long block setup produces a nice throaty gurgle/bark once you hit 2300rpms. I'll need to get traction bars as I can feel the wheel hop even at a 20mph roll when I send it.

I'm still learning EFI live, so I can pull a log file/PIDs (had to look up what that means, Parameter Identifications...did I get it correct?) if you'd still like to see them.

Tune 3 netted roughly 17.5mpg (manually calculated) at roughly 70-75mph which was roughly 2000-2100 rpms. Tune 1 netted roughly 18.5-19mpg, although it was pretty hilly through the portion I tested tune 1, so I'll do it again around Phoenix and see. I expect it to be less than the old stock motor, but do those figures seem about right?

Your economy doesn't seem out of bounds/off-base, I wouldn't be concerned there. Wheel/tire weight, terrain, temperature, tune etc all will play a large factor in your economy. My LLY with 60s, 10mm, 68R VGT would get roughly those economy numbers. When I switched to 250%, 14mm, 475/87 it dropped to 16mpg but I do think the tuning could've been better on that setup.

 

[N2BRK]

I'm jealous of the MPG. My mpg is horrible. It's my only gripe with my setup

 

[LB7StillAlive]

My onboard computer lies, so I have to manually calculate MPG. Per my onboard computer I averaged 21.5mpg. However when I manually calculate miles and use gallons filled, it’s normally about 3-4mpg less than what the onboard computer says.

I’ll do some more calcs as I lost track of the first one a bit, in tune 3. My onboard computer counts miles traveled wrong too. Not sure there’s a way to fix that aspect, so manual calculation it is.

My transmission temps get warmer than i’d like. It was about 86 in Phoenix today and the transmission hit 200 degrees and I wasn’t being aggressive, per se. I was doing a decent amount of city driving though (light to light stuff). Shop said at 225 to pull over and let it cool down. They said it’s not dangerous until 230-235 but to not risk it and at 225 if it doesn’t cool down to pull over and shut it off to cool.

Any others with experience in warmer climates mind sharing? Is it normal to hit 200 driving around a place like Phoenix when air temps are near 90. I’d imagine in the summer it will get higher than 200…so maybe I need to put additional trans cooling on my list of things needed.


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[ikeG]

My onboard computer lies, so I have to manually calculate MPG. Per my onboard computer I averaged 21.5mpg. However when I manually calculate miles and use gallons filled, it’s normally about 3-4mpg less than what the onboard computer says.

I’ll do some more calcs as I lost track of the first one a bit, in tune 3. My onboard computer counts miles traveled wrong too. Not sure there’s a way to fix that aspect, so manual calculation it is.

My transmission temps get warmer than i’d like. It was about 86 in Phoenix today and the transmission hit 200 degrees and I wasn’t being aggressive, per se. I was doing a decent amount of city driving though (light to light stuff). Shop said at 225 to pull over and let it cool down. They said it’s not dangerous until 230-235 but to not risk it and at 225 if it doesn’t cool down to pull over and shut it off to cool.

Any others with experience in warmer climates mind sharing? Is it normal to hit 200 driving around a place like Phoenix when air temps are near 90. I’d imagine in the summer it will get higher than 200…so maybe I need to put additional trans cooling on my list of things needed.


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If its overfilled, it will run hotter. Check the fluid level.

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[Bdsankey]

My onboard computer lies, so I have to manually calculate MPG. Per my onboard computer I averaged 21.5mpg. However when I manually calculate miles and use gallons filled, it’s normally about 3-4mpg less than what the onboard computer says.

I’ll do some more calcs as I lost track of the first one a bit, in tune 3. My onboard computer counts miles traveled wrong too. Not sure there’s a way to fix that aspect, so manual calculation it is.

My transmission temps get warmer than i’d like. It was about 86 in Phoenix today and the transmission hit 200 degrees and I wasn’t being aggressive, per se. I was doing a decent amount of city driving though (light to light stuff). Shop said at 225 to pull over and let it cool down. They said it’s not dangerous until 230-235 but to not risk it and at 225 if it doesn’t cool down to pull over and shut it off to cool.

Any others with experience in warmer climates mind sharing? Is it normal to hit 200 driving around a place like Phoenix when air temps are near 90. I’d imagine in the summer it will get higher than 200…so maybe I need to put additional trans cooling on my list of things needed.


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What trans cooler is on the truck now? Also, as stated above I would verify your fluid level and make sure it's not overfilled.


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[LB7StillAlive]

What trans cooler is on the truck now? Also, as stated above I would verify your fluid level and make sure it's not overfilled.


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It’s the stock trans cooler. Upgraded lines, but didn’t upgrade the cooler, part of the nickels & dimes I tried to save.

Looks like I’ll be purchasing a larger trans cooler before summer hits .


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[Bdsankey]

It’s the stock trans cooler. Upgraded lines, but didn’t upgrade the cooler, part of the nickels & dimes I tried to save.

Looks like I’ll be purchasing a larger trans cooler before summer hits .


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Mishimoto is the best performing you can get. It’s my go to cooler here at the shop.

I always upgrade the clamps on them when we sell em because the hose clamps Mishimoto sends are crap.


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[LB7StillAlive]

I needed to pull a log for tune 5 validation and figured I'd share it given one asked a few responses back. I needed to ZIP it in order to attach it.

@Bdsankey - Received the CalTracs, thank you very much. I'll hopefully get those installed this weekend.

 

[LB7StillAlive]

Well I’ve been working on installing the Caltracs, and boy is that 23yr old bushing a bastard. Tried doing it with the leaf spring still on the truck. Abandoned that theory after 2hrs. Air hammer couldn’t get it done, so I took the whole leaf spring off and successfully wore out my forearm using a 3lb mini-sledge.

Oh, and gosh dang the rear leaf spring bolt was blocked by my hitch . Went through 4 saws-all blades getting that sucker out. Needless to say, I should have it done after church today.






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[TheBac]

When I did mine, I pounded a wedge into the slot between the leaf and eye. It opened the eye just enough to pound the bushing out easier.

....and yes, why the hell did GM install the spring bolts from the INSIDE. Front hits gas tank, rear hits hitches.

 

[LB7StillAlive]

Thanks for the tip, I’ll see if I have a metal object that could work as a wedge. Haha, I tried sliding a sawzall blade through that slot hoping to cut it in half…decided against it as my Sump fuel lines were near by.


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[TheBac]

Big flat screwdriver, thick chisel, etc

 

[LB7StillAlive]

I used a Chisel and it helped for sure. I also beat the chisel down the inside to collapse the bushing.

Got it all done relatively quick once the 2nd bushing came out. Definitely hits better when the power rolls in.






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[TheBac]

You're taking me back to 2009. Happy memories.

 

[LB7StillAlive]

Was able to make some good passes on the Dyno one cooler day here in Phoenix.

762hp and 1551tq. Pretty stoked with those numbers. Tune could give more as I think they’re only at 2400us on the pulse width. For now, I’m going to keep it where it’s at.


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[Harshman]

Good numbers! How much boost?

 

[Bdsankey]

View attachment 134609
Was able to make some good passes on the Dyno one cooler day here in Phoenix.

762hp and 1551tq. Pretty stoked with those numbers. Tune could give more as I think they’re only at 2400us on the pulse width. For now, I’m going to keep it where it’s at.


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I'd say you're toward the upper end of those injectors in terms of peak efficiency, 2400us is already chasing the piston down with fuel.

Those numbers are about where I'd expect the setup to be "happy"! I'd bet around 2500-2600us is what it would take to break 800whp.

 

[LB7StillAlive]

Good numbers! How much boost?

I don’t have a boost gauge, only ECM reading on the Edge Insight so I don’t exactly know. It should be capable of hitting 55psi of boost.


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