Aluminum Radiators?

[1FastBrick]

I keep seeing Fluidyne popping up. Was wondering if any one tried the radiators on any thing? I know there coolers usually work but not sure on the radiators.

I know the Mishimoto's are No good as even on the 1500's I have seen them literally come apart. Yeah they will warranty it but you have to pay $100 to cover the shipping each time you replace it.

I know some people have said they have had luck with the cheap Chinese offerings and some have even gotten them replaced when they failed if the supplier offered a warranty.

 

[Chevy1925]

Lets put it this way, i have not had a single aluminum rad hold up in a day to day use truck. Every one of them has created a leak. Dmax store, ron davis, cbr, mishimoto, ebay, etc.

That said, i have not tried a fluidyne but at this point, im convinced there is flex/loads/something going on that an all aluminum rad cant hold up too. My guess is its too ridged

 

[1FastBrick]

I was wondering the same thing. They always seem to tear away from the mount area and or the hose on the top driver side.

I was also wondering if perhaps the end tanks were not thick enough.

 

[1TRIKHD]

I have one from wizard cooling and we will see how long it lasts. Seems very well made, but like James said about his experience with them, they all seem to leak.

 

[Chevy1925]

Ron Davis is on rendition 3 for the limo. See how long this lasts lol.

 

[PureHybrid]

Heck I put a cheap Spectra radiator in mine like 10 years ago and it's doing fine

 

[2004LB7]

Let's go back to making them out of copper and brass and lead solder. Then they might last.

 

[Bdsankey]

I have not had great luck with any aluminum radiator which is why all we install these days is Northern Radiator. They're the only OEM fitment radiator I've used that is actually an upgrade and holds up.

 

[MarkBroviak]

100% failure rate with them, I will only use the stock ones. I have never had to replace the factory radiator in any on my Dmax's but everyone that came through the shop with the aluminum ones would normally only last a year or so.

 

[1FastBrick]

100% failure rate with them, I will only use the stock ones. I have never had to replace the factory radiator in any on my Dmax's but everyone that came through the shop with the aluminum ones would normally only last a year or so.

Thanks!!!

 

[malibu795]

I've got something going on with the transmission cooler part of mine that's leaking ATF externally..
Found a cold case version on FBMP.
Hmmm

 

[othrgrl]

I have a Fluidyne Radiator in my personal LBZ with a few thousand miles on it so far. I too have seen nothing but failures out of all other aluminum radiators. But, I have been using Fluidyne coolers of all types for many years, including custom radiators in Duramax swap applications. They've made me custom trans coolers, oil coolers, fuel coolers, intercoolers, and radiators with zero issues from any of them. They have been building radiators for the harshest forms of racing for a very long time, including Nascar, Baja, etc.

Thry have been out for less than a year and only time will tell, but I have confidence based on past experience with Fluidyne and it has helped coolant temps. I'll know more of a before and after of temps in a few weeks after I tow to NHRDA in Tulsa and then 2 weeks later to UCC.

 

[Chevy1925]

I have a Fluidyne Radiator in my personal LBZ with a few thousand miles on it so far. I too have seen nothing but failures out of all other aluminum radiators. But, I have been using Fluidyne coolers of all types for many years, including custom radiators in Duramax swap applications. They've made me custom trans coolers, oil coolers, fuel coolers, intercoolers, and radiators with zero issues from any of them. They have been building radiators for the harshest forms of racing for a very long time, including Nascar, Baja, etc.

Thry have been out for less than a year and only time will tell, but I have confidence based on past experience with Fluidyne and it has helped coolant temps. I'll know more of a before and after of temps in a few weeks after I tow to NHRDA in Tulsa and then 2 weeks later to UCC.

So is ron davis and cbm. The problem stems from the cooling stack flexing. The radiator needs to move and the plastic/aluminum rads work better here. Plus the fact you have an intercooler attached to it. A race car/truck is going to be far more solid in chassis flex so its not much of an issue and each rad is not attached in the same fashion as ours

I hope they hold. So far, ive not seen one outlast the ron davis one i have that made it 5 years. I thought big name companies could solve this too but im not seeing it

I’d rather see a better core design and/or thicker core with same plastic tank design. Its not like the plastic tanks are a major issue.

 

[WVRigrat05]

My 2015 6.2 eats radiators. Even after studs etc. I'm on radiator 4 now and can smell antifreeze already with about 10-15k miles on it.

 

[Chevy1925]

I’d be checking for electrolysis

 

[WVRigrat05]

It's where the plastic meets the aluminum James, I'll get about 10-15k out of one and it starts getting wet on the driver's side. I've drilled out thermostats, ran lower temp ones, OEM and cannot figure it out.

 

[1FastBrick]

what brand radiator?

 

[2004LB7]

It's where the plastic meets the aluminum James, I'll get about 10-15k out of one and it starts getting wet on the driver's side. I've drilled out thermostats, ran lower temp ones, OEM and cannot figure it out.

Mine did this on the OEM radiator. Bent the little aluminum fingers open and took the tanks and gaskets off. Cleaned everything up. Applied black silicone and reassembled. Fixed the leaks without needing to purchase a new radiator

Might be worth looking at your cap too, to see if it's clogged not releasing at the right pressure

 

[2004LB7]

Radiator with leaking tank at seam


Pry with screwdriver to open the little tabs


After screwdriver, you can carefully open them a little more with some pliers


Screwdriver again to pop the tanks off


Tank removed


Carefully remove the gasket and save it


Wash and clean everything. Opportunity to clean out the inside of the radiator channels


Thoroughly clean out the channel where the gasket sits and apply RTV or whatever the strongest version you can find


Put the gasket in and apply another bead of RTV


Put the tanks back on and bend the tabs back down tight


Enjoy a leak free radiator


Only works if the plastic is not cracked and is only leaking at the interface between the aluminum and plastic. Allow for sufficient time for the RTV to cure properly before refilling radiator

 

[PureHybrid]

I've heard it a couple times from dealer techs, they always crimp the tanks tighter on a new rad before install. Not sure if it's good bad or indifferent, but if there were any issues I'm sure they'd notice