I think its time to just let it go, Flyinwrenches.
Agreed, I apologize guys. Consider it let goI think its time to just let it go, Flyinwrenches.
Isn't part of the problem with forged is the expansion ratio is a little higher then cast so additional clearance is needed to allow for this? Once up to temperature the clearance is pretty much the same. If you coated them, wouldn't they them be too tight when hot? Or I'm I mixing this up with something else?I’d be curious about using forged pistons and having them coated by Line 2 Line coating to close up the PTW clearance
The line 2 line coating wears out where clearance is needed. It’s used in racing applications so not sure how it would hold up for a daily driver.Isn't part of the problem with forged is the expansion ratio is a little higher then cast so additional clearance is needed to allow for this? Once up to temperature the clearance is pretty much the same. If you coated them, wouldn't they them be too tight when hot? Or I'm I mixing this up with something else?
Speed of Air has an interesting product but for $4000 it's a hard pill to swallow when I can simply buy Fingers (for almost half price) and never need another set of pistons.Now that we're past that rabbit trail, I'll go back to the original topic. I say give them a shot. I've seen enough Mahle Motorsports pistons break to that I don't even use them in builds anymore. At this point, I would guess these DK pistons couldn't be any worse. At least this gamble is a little easier on the pocket book. I'm somewhat curious about the speed of air pistons. They seem like a gimmick, but maybe they really do work. I'd like to test them, but they're very expensive. As of now, I believe Fingers pistons are the best option for a street driven Duramax, but that's just my opinion.
I've never seen a cast Duramax piston from any manufacturer that doesn't use a steel top ring land and a keystone shaped top ring.Maybe I misunderstood, but was thinking Mahle quit putting a steel top ring land on their cast pistons
The line 2 line coating wears out where clearance is needed. It’s used in racing applications so not sure how it would hold up for a daily driver.
The theory is you’re able to run a tighter clearance, even with a cast piston. The coating will only wear out where clearance is needed.You still have to have clearance clarence lol. If you run a .004 ptw clearance for a forged, it will grow to the .002 or less clearance as it heats up or pushed hard so you are back to cast clearances when hot. That will wear the coating and piston slap will be back and we didnt gain any sealing.
Clearance, Clarence?
It been so long, I forget what Dmax p-t-w clearance specs were....
The theory is you’re able to run a tighter clearance, even with a cast piston. The coating will only wear out where clearance is needed.
I’m curious to try it on my next build. If I end up with piston slap ??.0015 for a cast
I guess i dont see the gain because its going to wear off lol. Like you were saying, maybe an engine strictly raced and refeshed often
I’m curious to try it on my next build. If I end up with piston slapcan’t be any worse than my hone job I did at home and slapped pistons back in after cracking some
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My Mahle Cast pistons said PTW .002 Measured 0.500 up..0015 for a cast
I guess i dont see the gain because its going to wear off lol. Like you were saying, maybe an engine strictly raced and refeshed often
My Mahle Cast pistons said PTW .002 Measured 0.500 up.