i ve been running amsoil in all my trucks for several years with out a problem, this includes the 1000hp cummins i just sold, i change it every 6k, i dont care whos oil u run, there is no substitute for clean oil, and i would never go more than 7500mi on any oil no matter what the oil MFG. says...
Question: Who on here has been unhappy with results using Amsoil?
- Thread starter Mike_S
- Start date
GMC_2002_Dmax
The Still Master
I always wondered why someone would pay to have oil analyzed when that is 1/2 the $$$$ cost of just doing an oil change ???
Why woukd you want to buy expensive, overpriced oil, pay expensive shipping on it to boot, buy into the never changing it mentality, then take a chance if and when that oil sample comes back bad now it's too late.
Oil is relatively inexpensive compared to a motor. AMSOIL is just AMWAY for oil, JMHO, and I say that because the AMSOIL Dealers are more concerned with signing up people under them as dealers then they are with selling product most of the time.
AMSOIL claims the oil they manufacture is better, but yet they do not pay to test it in a way that the big oil makers do, INDEPENDENT TESTING !!!
If anyone wants to buy AMSOIL products that is their business, it is a free country, but I change my oil every 3-4K, I usually use Rotella T-15W-40, but I also have no problem with DELO-400 or Delvac 1300. I try to stick with Rotella. My 2002/LB7 does not use on drop of oil between changes and idles at 45 psi, runs down the road at 70-80 psi.
In my wife's VW Touareg V8 the AMSOIL the VW Dealer was using was going through the motor like shit through a goose, it would use so much oil that it would go through 6-7 quarts in 10K miles and I would have to keep topping it off weekly, I asked if that was normal and they said yes, I felt like I was getting screwed but I was still under warranty and I had all the proof in writing as to what was going on. It got to be so bad that after I was out of warranty at 60K miles I switched to LUBRO-MOLY and now if I use 1-2 quarts in 10K miles it is alot.
IMHO AMSOIL is not OK at least from my personal experiences and there are far better and less expensive proven, tested oils out there to buy.
Why woukd you want to buy expensive, overpriced oil, pay expensive shipping on it to boot, buy into the never changing it mentality, then take a chance if and when that oil sample comes back bad now it's too late.
Oil is relatively inexpensive compared to a motor. AMSOIL is just AMWAY for oil, JMHO, and I say that because the AMSOIL Dealers are more concerned with signing up people under them as dealers then they are with selling product most of the time.
AMSOIL claims the oil they manufacture is better, but yet they do not pay to test it in a way that the big oil makers do, INDEPENDENT TESTING !!!
If anyone wants to buy AMSOIL products that is their business, it is a free country, but I change my oil every 3-4K, I usually use Rotella T-15W-40, but I also have no problem with DELO-400 or Delvac 1300. I try to stick with Rotella. My 2002/LB7 does not use on drop of oil between changes and idles at 45 psi, runs down the road at 70-80 psi.
In my wife's VW Touareg V8 the AMSOIL the VW Dealer was using was going through the motor like shit through a goose, it would use so much oil that it would go through 6-7 quarts in 10K miles and I would have to keep topping it off weekly, I asked if that was normal and they said yes, I felt like I was getting screwed but I was still under warranty and I had all the proof in writing as to what was going on. It got to be so bad that after I was out of warranty at 60K miles I switched to LUBRO-MOLY and now if I use 1-2 quarts in 10K miles it is alot.
IMHO AMSOIL is not OK at least from my personal experiences and there are far better and less expensive proven, tested oils out there to buy.
Amsoil 15w40 Diesel Marine
03 duramax started on Amsoil Diesel Marine at 1000, miles, 150,027 miles as of today with no issues. Changed at 10K except for the last two changes which were at 20K with the EA0052 filter. Ive run it in my boats since 99 with the same results. Regardless, with bearing failure, I would definately be contacting Amsoil and looking for an analysis of the situation. They do warranty their products performance.
03 duramax started on Amsoil Diesel Marine at 1000, miles, 150,027 miles as of today with no issues. Changed at 10K except for the last two changes which were at 20K with the EA0052 filter. Ive run it in my boats since 99 with the same results. Regardless, with bearing failure, I would definately be contacting Amsoil and looking for an analysis of the situation. They do warranty their products performance.
I would be very verry interested in hearing of anyone that has had success in Amsoil covering an engine failure, related or not to their oil. There are far far too many variables that give them an escape. Still not convinced.
I refuse to run Amsoil. Not just because of their douche distributors hard-sell BS, but also because of Amsoil's own snake-oil advertising BS.
I generally run Delo, Delvac, or Rotella. This last fill got Rotella T6, but I want to try Delo 400 LE synthetic next time. It's not really a true synthetic, but it's specs are nearly equal to Delvac 1 ESP (which IS fully synthetic) for quite a bit less money. I always run FleetGuard filters since I get them cheap from a friend who works at the local Freightliner dealer.
I use Redline in the diffs and trans. The engine oil is too expensive for how often I change it, but POE base stocks are the best there is (contrary to what Amsoil would have you believe :jerk and their reputation is top notch. if I was made of money I'd probably run it
I generally run Delo, Delvac, or Rotella. This last fill got Rotella T6, but I want to try Delo 400 LE synthetic next time. It's not really a true synthetic, but it's specs are nearly equal to Delvac 1 ESP (which IS fully synthetic) for quite a bit less money. I always run FleetGuard filters since I get them cheap from a friend who works at the local Freightliner dealer.
I use Redline in the diffs and trans. The engine oil is too expensive for how often I change it, but POE base stocks are the best there is (contrary to what Amsoil would have you believe :jerk
and their reputation is top notch. if I was made of money I'd probably run it 
Amsoil
I guess I dont understand the problem of using a quality oil. I have used Amsoil 15w40 marine in my 2002, 2003, dads 2004, my 2005, 2006 and now my current LMM. I have always changed my oil @ 5k. There have been many of oil samples taken on all my trucks and lets just say there are no complaints here. I also run the stuff in my snowmobile with an intresting story. My buddy works at a Polaris dealer and in 2008 the Polaris sleds had some recalls.. they decided to change the Pistons, Rings, Head to get more longevity out of the engines. "Too many failures" my buddies sled had 1024 miles on it and ran Amsoil HP injector oil, another buddy had 1200 miles on his and ran Amsoil Dominator oil and the Polaris mechanic ran Polaris Gold with 1100 miles. The Mechanic reported to us that the sled running Amsoil Dominator by far looked the best. The sled running HP injector was next in line. He stated after seeing what the Polaris gold looked like as far as wear scar that he would never run it again! Everyone has opinions and this will just turn into a ford chevy dodge war that will amount to jack shit! Run what you are comfortable with and change the oil intervals what you are comfortable with. Maybe there is some bad stuff out there I dont know? But I do know that "if my Aunt had Balls she would be my Uncle"! My 2 Cents.
I guess I dont understand the problem of using a quality oil. I have used Amsoil 15w40 marine in my 2002, 2003, dads 2004, my 2005, 2006 and now my current LMM. I have always changed my oil @ 5k. There have been many of oil samples taken on all my trucks and lets just say there are no complaints here. I also run the stuff in my snowmobile with an intresting story. My buddy works at a Polaris dealer and in 2008 the Polaris sleds had some recalls.. they decided to change the Pistons, Rings, Head to get more longevity out of the engines. "Too many failures" my buddies sled had 1024 miles on it and ran Amsoil HP injector oil, another buddy had 1200 miles on his and ran Amsoil Dominator oil and the Polaris mechanic ran Polaris Gold with 1100 miles. The Mechanic reported to us that the sled running Amsoil Dominator by far looked the best. The sled running HP injector was next in line. He stated after seeing what the Polaris gold looked like as far as wear scar that he would never run it again! Everyone has opinions and this will just turn into a ford chevy dodge war that will amount to jack shit! Run what you are comfortable with and change the oil intervals what you are comfortable with. Maybe there is some bad stuff out there I dont know? But I do know that "if my Aunt had Balls she would be my Uncle"! My 2 Cents.
So, what you are saying is that only Amsoil is a quality oil?
Thanks for playing. :spit:
No max my statement was a quality oil. Not the quality oil, as you read on I also say run what you are confident in. For me no questions asked it is and will continue to be amsoil. The next guy will run what he prefers.
I run Rotella 15w-40, and Lucas oil additive in the LB7, change every 5000, with Wix filters, no complaint here.
No oil will compare to Petro Canada in the soot control department.
Thats why I run it. With as hot as our oil gets, im not about to run 10k let alone 22k on amsoil, engine oil is cheap, so why risk it. I understand if you drvie 24/7, but for the average person, amsoil isnt really needed. The gods over on DF like to live by that crap. idk how many E-net fights ive been in over there with those guys. :roflmao:
Thats why I run it. With as hot as our oil gets, im not about to run 10k let alone 22k on amsoil, engine oil is cheap, so why risk it. I understand if you drvie 24/7, but for the average person, amsoil isnt really needed. The gods over on DF like to live by that crap. idk how many E-net fights ive been in over there with those guys. :roflmao:
I was doing some Googling and came upon this little gem: http://www.turbodieselregister.com/TDR57_Oil.pdf
Note the top 6 and bottom 4, particularly what grade they are. CJ-4 oils look to be pretty weak. You can thank DPF's for this.
Also note where the 2 Amsoil products rank
OK Amsoil fanbois, commence screeching
Note the top 6 and bottom 4, particularly what grade they are. CJ-4 oils look to be pretty weak. You can thank DPF's for this.
Also note where the 2 Amsoil products rank
OK Amsoil fanbois, commence screeching
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I just tore down another motor with amsoil that was changed every 10k his looked bad inside really slugged up so he switched to rotella see how it does for him now that he is changing it every 4000-5000 miles
The only people that need to run the Cj-4 additive are the ones who still have the DPf systems on. I ran the Cj-4 when I bought my LMM new for about 8,000 miles. Then I killed the cat and DPF Turbo back changed back to 15w40 and never looked back!
I'm overdue for an oil/fluid change since I just bought my truck. I'm going to go with a 5K schedule on this truck though. A regular schedule keeps me coming back to peeking under the hood, and prevents general complacency on my part.
I'll probably go with a conventional 15W40 (don't know that I'll need 5W40 since I'm in Cali.) The truck does have a few miles on it at 125,000+ so if anyone can offer up a compelling argument for using synthetic I'll certainly consider using that instead.
I'll probably go with a conventional 15W40 (don't know that I'll need 5W40 since I'm in Cali.) The truck does have a few miles on it at 125,000+ so if anyone can offer up a compelling argument for using synthetic I'll certainly consider using that instead.
I have no idea what was used in my truck for the first 135,000 miles, but judging form the records I got I think it was taken to a GM dealer. I use Rotella T 5w40 changed every 5,000mi. It usually still looks pretty good after that amount of time. Doesn't smell real bad or look real black. Unlike the F-350 at my old job. After one day that stuff was black as night!
CLEAN OIL IN A DIESEL IS NOT DOING ITS JOB.
Combustion causes particles that go into the bottom of an engine. If the oil is any good at all, and has a good additives package, it keeps these particles suspended in the oil, so the oil filter can do its job. Anyone disagree???
If you are taking out clean oil after 5,000 miles, there is a lot of particles STUCK somewhere in the engine.
Combustion causes particles that go into the bottom of an engine. If the oil is any good at all, and has a good additives package, it keeps these particles suspended in the oil, so the oil filter can do its job. Anyone disagree???
If you are taking out clean oil after 5,000 miles, there is a lot of particles STUCK somewhere in the engine.
While i agree with you that engine oil should be carying particles of soot, where i dissagree is that if it appears clean that its not doing its job. I have seen several and heard of many more engines that use very high quality bypass filter systems whos oil only turn to a slightly darkened amber color. I have also heard of some who claim after installing a high quality bypass system that their previously black oil eventually turned to a dark amber color. Granted, the oil is still doing like you stated and carying the contaminants, its simply being trapped in a very very fine filter.
By the way, how is your 4WD working these days?
By the way, how is your 4WD working these days?
Made it almost 17,000 miles in 4wd before the Transfer Case and parts of the front diff went out. Where do I send that bill to? Funny thing is the drivers side output shaft and bearing in the front diff went out but the passenger side was ok. I guess that means I must have made more turns one way than the other. WTF?? Anyway, $1500 for a TCase, $400 for the front diff parts that were bad. Drivers side hub also bad. So much for driving 4wd on dry pavement 24-7. Thanks, GM loves your advice.:thumb: