Trailer Brakes Too Weak

[OleBlackyLBZ]

Depending on how your controller is set, it may not be pushing full voltage when the trailer is connected. With no load, the controller pushes full voltage, but there is nothing there to absorb it, so it stays up.

Check your truck side plug for proper tension and corrosion on the lugs. They may look clean, but actually be slightly covered in corrosion (like aluminum powder)

Considering the test with the 05 and 16 model trucks I mentioned above I think 8.5v is just all this truck and controller are going to give. Ill have it all hooked back up here ina bit and as long as the brakes are strong ill be happy. Im honestly tires of messing with it, I have almost $2,000 in the new wiring and new brakes and paying a friend to help. I only paid $5,500 for the trailer

 

[malibu795]

Considering the test with the 05 and 16 model trucks I mentioned above I think 8.5v is just all this truck and controller are going to give. Ill have it all hooked back up here ina bit and as long as the brakes are strong ill be happy. Im honestly tires of messing with it, I have almost $2,000 in the new wiring and new brakes and paying a friend to help. I only paid $5,500 for the trailer

I know it's an old threads..
Size time length equals restriction.
I had worse voltage drop on mine when it was e brakes.. 4 magnets pull 3-4amp each.. amps are constant voltage is variable..
4 brake system that's 12-16amps pull over ~50' of wire from batter to wheel hubs.. ended up running 8gau wire.. went from 6V drop to .5-1V drop

 

[Dean E]

I know it's an old threads..
Size time length equals restriction.
I had worse voltage drop on mine when it was e brakes.. 4 magnets pull 3-4amp each.. amps are constant voltage is variable..
4 brake system that's 12-16amps pull over ~50' of wire from batter to wheel hubs.. ended up running 8gau wire.. went from 6V drop to .5-1V drop

Very good! I went back and checked my reference charts for voltage drop and current carrying capabilities and 10 gauge would have put you at 17 amps for each brake pulling a 4 amp load but at that distance and everything else considered 8 would have been the best option. Most certainly something that you won't find on most wired trailers for electric brakes. About the most I have seen for that is 12 gauge and usually 14 is most common. Dean

 

[malibu795]

Very good! I went back and checked my reference charts for voltage drop and current carrying capabilities and 10 gauge would have put you at 17 amps for each brake pulling a 4 amp load but at that distance and everything else considered 8 would have been the best option. Most certainly something that you won't find on most wired trailers for electric brakes. About the most I have seen for that is 12 gauge and usually 14 is most common. Dean

I've replaced 16ga wire on a 4 brake setup

 

[2004LB7]

I replaced the 16 gauge wire on my trailer brakes with hydraulic tubing. No voltage drop there

 

[malibu795]

I replaced the 16 gauge wire on my trailer brakes with hydraulic tubing. No voltage drop there

So you say

Put a small battery on the trailer.. the EOH pump will run substantially better. It will pull upwards of 40A.
Use the tow vehicle + bat circuit to keep trailer bat charged.. the battery acts like a capacity/surge tank of sorts.

 

[2004LB7]

So you say

Put a small battery on the trailer.. the EOH pump will run substantially better. It will pull upwards of 40A.
Use the tow vehicle + bat circuit to keep trailer bat charged.. the battery acts like a capacity/surge tank of sorts.

I have a bank of 3000 farad capacitors to take care of that . My trailer is not used often so no risk of the battery going bad from sitting with these