Towing capacity

dk2429

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May 30, 2017
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I'm currently in the process of finalizing the transaction on a 2006 2500HD with the LBZ Duramax in it. This is going to be my first diesel, and it will be used for towing.

I'll be towing nothing near the max capacity, but out of curiosity, what is the maximum amount of weight you can put behind this truck safely? Like I said, 2500HD, long bed. I know there's many factors in what it can haul, I'm just trying to find out what the max would be safely for this truck.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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srw or drw? crew cab or extended cab or reg cab? 5th wheel or tongue pull max weight?
 

dk2429

New member
May 30, 2017
123
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Texas
srw or drw? crew cab or extended cab or reg cab? 5th wheel or tongue pull max weight?

Like I said, it's a crew cab. And it's srw. I'm concerned about the bumper pull but I'd like to know for a goose neck/fifth wheel too.
 

Ne-max

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Nov 15, 2011
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You are allowed 22000 pounds total on a 06 crew cab shirt box. Truck with a couple people and some basics is around 8000. That leaves you 14000.
 

TheBac

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Just watch how much weight you put on the OEM hitch. IMO, it really isnt a Class5.
 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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^^ 2x

I get queasy when tongue weight approaches 1k lbs.

10% tongue weight at 1k would limit you to 10k conventional
 

torqued2dmax

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Mar 26, 2017
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Brookville, PA
I almost lost a 10,000 # gas well pump jack while taking it to one of my gas wells , I broke the hitch almost the hole way off , if it wasnt for my brother wanting an ice cream I could have killed many people that day . THANK GOD ! The safety chains and break away switch are all connected to the hitch . That was my SRW truck , now my DRW truck has Curt Commercial Duty 18,000# 2700# tongue . Your hitch might look good on the outside , but could be half rusted through the inside like mine , check it out very closely !
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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He said 2500hd that equals see 99% of the time :poke:


Don't you have a cumminGs to work on? Lol

I almost lost a 10,000 # gas well pump jack while taking it to one of my gas wells , I broke the hitch almost the hole way off , if it wasnt for my brother wanting an ice cream I could have killed many people that day . THANK GOD ! The safety chains and break away switch are all connected to the hitch . That was my SRW truck , now my DRW truck has Curt Commercial Duty 18,000# 2700# tongue . Your hitch might look good on the outside , but could be half rusted through the inside like mine , check it out very closely !


If that hitch still attaches via the stock frame bolts/holes and does not incorporate the bumper, I wouldn't not haul anything close to what it's rated for.... I've seen two trucks with curt hitches that did not bolt to the bumper and they tore the stock frame because the bottom of the frame channel just isn't strong enough unless boxed in and plated. Gm relies heavily on the bumper supporting a good portion of the tongue weight and over all pulling weight
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Don't you have a cumminGs to work on? Lol




If that hitch still attaches via the stock frame bolts/holes and does not incorporate the bumper, I wouldn't not haul anything close to what it's rated for.... I've seen two trucks with curt hitches that did not bolt to the bumper and they tore the stock frame because the bottom of the frame channel just isn't strong enough unless boxed in and plated. Gm relies heavily on the bumper supporting a good portion of the tongue weight and over all pulling weight

Interesting info. Makes perfect sense, but then it begs the questions,

"Why did some aftermarket companies design their hitches to not use the rear bumper mounts, following GM's design specs, if they are so important to the hitch's over all effectiveness?"
and
"Is there a way to add an extra bumper mounting point to my existing aftermarket hitch safely to make it's design stronger?"
 

Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
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I wouldn't want to use one that doesn't bolt to the bumper. Look how long that tongue ends up being. That's a ton of leverage


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Interesting info. Makes perfect sense, but then it begs the questions,

"Why did some aftermarket companies design their hitches to not use the rear bumper mounts, following GM's design specs, if they are so important to the hitch's over all effectiveness?"
and
"Is there a way to add an extra bumper mounting point to my existing aftermarket hitch safely to make it's design stronger?"

honestly, i dont know. same reason i ask "why do lift companies not design proper front pinion angle into the lifts so you can continue to use a factory style driveline?"

i use to have pics of the trucks that lost hitches this way but they were deleted off my phone and the OP of the thread they are from deleted his thread from all the BS he got. he was hauling a 15k double stacker sand car trailer for a guy. was using a Curt 18k hitch, 5k receiver and a 6k ball. he didnt realize how screwed he was from the beginning. luckily the ball and receiver never failed, the frame actually did first. he since had it fixed by fish plating where the frame split on top and bottom, boxing it in, and plating over the outside of the frame then put a 20k reese hitch on and 20k receiver/ball.

My stock hitch is still going strong accept for the hitch pin for the receiver being wallowed out. ill make some recessed weld washers to fix that for now. i have a 10k ball and receiver on my truck but its more than ill ever tow unless i have a distribution hitch on the truck. my old trailer was 12k tongue pull with a distribution hitch so it was over loaded and the wallowed out pin hole shows it :roflmao:
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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I would imagine a U-shaped strap of 1/4" plate around the receiver with mounting tabs to the bumper would help allieviate the issue, wouldnt it? Or welding "ears" onto the hitch to allow for an additional bumper mount?


Or am I completely off base with those ideas?
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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I would imagine a U-shaped strap of 1/4" plate around the receiver with mounting tabs to the bumper would help allieviate the issue, wouldnt it? Or welding "ears" onto the hitch to allow for an additional bumper mount?


Or am I completely off base with those ideas?

no you're pretty much spot on. i would weld some ears on.
 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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honestly, i dont know. same reason i ask "why do lift companies not design proper front pinion angle into the lifts so you can continue to use a factory style driveline?"

My stock hitch is still going strong accept for the hitch pin for the receiver being wallowed out. ill make some recessed weld washers to fix that for now. i have a 10k ball and receiver on my truck but its more than ill ever tow unless i have a distribution hitch on the truck. my old trailer was 12k tongue pull with a distribution hitch so it was over loaded and the wallowed out pin hole shows it :roflmao:


i thought that the pinion angles had to be the same (within a few %) coming out of the transfer case and going into the diff. otherwise you can get some bad vibrations. that was the reason for the "lift" companies making the pinion angle that way. to try and match the two universal joint angles
____________

on my receiver, I use a grade 8 bolt, nut & washers. I drilled a hole in the nut through the bolt so i can lock it with a small lock or pin. doesn't move around so the hole hasn't grown.