Tapping for fuel pressure reading (Post Liftpump)

[LarryJewell]

Can you not just add wire?


these wire harness work for any electric autometer gauge EXCEPT nexus
but you can also use them if you want to rig up stuff for logging

I added around 6-7' of wire to run mine to the Fass unit to moniter fuel pressure, which is/was a waste of time, it only tells me that the Fass is working. I need to move my sending unit up to the motor, possibly filter housing to really see whats going on.

 

[sweetdiesel]

I added around 6-7' of wire to run mine to the Fass unit to moniter fuel pressure, which is/was a waste of time, it only tells me that the Fass is working. I need to move my sending unit up to the motor, possibly filter housing to really see whats going on.

I wont go to the filter housing again,if ya do i believe its 8mmx 1.5 oring fitting needed,but mind eventually cracked and is now held togather with JB weld

I would use the setup like Joey did or like i did on the lb7

 

[LarryJewell]

I wont go to the filter housing again,if ya do i believe its 8mmx 1.5 oring fitting needed,but mind eventually cracked and is now held togather with JB weld

I would use the setup like Joey did or like i did on the lb7

I'd love to go to the location at the fitting adjacent to the alternator where Joey set his up. I looked at it for a long time, even discussed with the local dealer diesel mechanic, and we couldnt come up with the needed fitting to make it work. I dont have a problem getting in there and hooking it up, I just need to know what fitting to use and where to go to get it

 

[sweetdiesel]

I'd love to go to the location at the fitting adjacent to the alternator where Joey set his up. I looked at it for a long time, even discussed with the local dealer diesel mechanic, and we couldnt come up with the needed fitting to make it work. I dont have a problem getting in there and hooking it up, I just need to know what fitting to use and where to go to get it

no problom Larry Just remove the 2 nuts that hold that fitting on and there is a hose clamp on the back of it IIRC its 1/4" ( ? in metric )
use a barbed fitting and your good to go

 

[LarryJewell]

no problom Larry Just remove the 2 nuts that hold that fitting on and there is a hose clamp on the back of it IIRC its 1/4" ( ? in metric )
use a barbed fitting and your good to go

Pics would be great you remember how long it took me to do the drive pressure gauge, that was simple..........the fuel supply system scares me though

 

[sweetdiesel]

Pics would be great you remember how long it took me to do the drive pressure gauge, that was simple..........the fuel supply system scares me though

I will see what i can do tommorow

 

[LarryJewell]

thanks Simon

 

[sweetdiesel]

Larry I just realized LLY are different than lb7s
there is a hose that comes off to the left off the shrader valve,Im thinking its a 12mm or 1/2" hose possible 3/8s but all you you have to do is T into that hose I followed it down and it sits around the FICM

I think that would work just fine


Also here is a pic of my filter housing with the o-ring fitting,Carefull not to look at it to hard as it will fall off:rofl:

 

[LarryJewell]

Is it really a good idea to cut this line to install a "T"

 

[sweetdiesel]

Is it really a good idea to cut this line to install a "T"

LOL if you only seen my lb7:rofl: Ts everywhere

wont hurt a thing Larry max PSI is 15 a clamp will hold that easy
biggest thing is you dont want to restrict flow in any way

Install duel cp3s and you would have to do the same thing

worst thing that could happen is when cutting the fuel line you should let some fuel come out to clean any rubber that may have fell into the line

 

[ZR1160]

First time around I got a fitting from a hydrolic shop that fit into the bleeder valve, with a JIC fitting on the other end, then I had them make a braided SS line that went across to the other side of the motor with a NPT thread to screw in the sensor, But with the MITUSA pump, I take the pressure signal from the filter housing in the spare port, just got a NPT to JIC adapter. Works very well, now I just have to hook in a solenoid to shut the return line off and run full pressure ( 80psi ) to the CP3, oh in case you were wondering the MITUSA pump is after the stock filter

 

[LarryJewell]

LOL if you only seen my lb7:rofl: Ts everywhere

wont hurt a thing Larry max PSI is 15 a clamp will hold that easy
biggest thing is you dont want to restrict flow in any way

Install duel cp3s and you would have to do the same thing

worst thing that could happen is when cutting the fuel line you should let some fuel come out to clean any rubber that may have fell into the line

Any chance of there being a "T" fitting with barbs already built in (not screwed in), I dont need any additional areas for possible leaks.

 

[LarryJewell]

Just like the title says, I want to see pics, part numbers, etc......

 

[LarryJewell]

Joey, I'm interested in pics of your setup too

 

[sweetdiesel]

First time around I got a fitting from a hydrolic shop that fit into the bleeder valve, with a JIC fitting on the other end, then I had them make a braided SS line that went across to the other side of the motor with a NPT thread to screw in the sensor, But with the MITUSA pump, I take the pressure signal from the filter housing in the spare port, just got a NPT to JIC adapter. Works very well, now I just have to hook in a solenoid to shut the return line off and run full pressure ( 80psi ) to the CP3, oh in case you were wondering the MITUSA pump is after the stock filter

thats exactly how mine was setup to,I just had alot of issues with the filter housing leaking....normal luck for me

Any chance of there being a "T" fitting with barbs already built in (not screwed in), I dont need any additional areas for possible leaks.

yes, you can get them

 

[stacks04]

couldn't you also use the line into the filter housing or out of it? cut the rubber add the t there and mount your sensor to it. matter of fact your could get a push/lock banjo bolt/fitting and make a whole new line with a push lock tee fitting and clamp it just like stock on the filter housing.

 

[sweetdiesel]

couldn't you also use the line into the filter housing or out of it? cut the rubber add the t there and mount your sensor to it. matter of fact your could get a push/lock banjo bolt/fitting and make a whole new line with a push lock tee fitting and clamp it just like stock on the filter housing.

yup, sure could

the possiblities are endless

 

[LarryJewell]

couldn't you also use the line into the filter housing or out of it? cut the rubber add the t there and mount your sensor to it. matter of fact your could get a push/lock banjo bolt/fitting and make a whole new line with a push lock tee fitting and clamp it just like stock on the filter housing.

yup, sure could

the possiblities are endless

I'm thinking about pulling out the JEGS catalog and looking at the cool fuel lines and fittings I'm going to put something pretty trick together




But ya'll keep the ideas coming

 

[rushingbc]

Since I'm running an aftermarket filter on my truck I deleted the stock filter, then bought a new banjo bolt for the FICM so I didnt mess up the original.

I drilled and tapped the top of the banjo bolt, put a 90 degree elbow in it then attached my 1/4 hose that goes to my fuel pressure isolator. It replaced the output side, or aft banjo bolt on the FICM. It works well for me so far, and all I had to buy was a 5 dollar banjo bolt from the stealer and a $2 1/4" 90 with a hose barb on one end.

 

[slowlmm]

my dipricol one replaces the bleeder screw on my fuel filter. works great all i need is a lift pump now lol