precision industries converter

TheBac

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The blue Precision? Maybe only good for a regular stock on-highway pickup. I wouldnt go racing/pulling though.
 
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Chevy1925

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They are ok. Converter clutch takes a beating because they don’t couple them best, leads to the clutch coming apart and plugging up the trans filter. They weren’t all bad but high torque and big foot eventually kills them. Hard to say what the “magic number” is as some hold up.

Most guys switch from the converter to something that couples better though.
 
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Vmyrhaug

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but will be ok in a stock engine/turbo combo? how is theese too drive with, need much rpm to get truck moving? running 35" tires, and stock one need enough rpm to get truck moving.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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but will be ok in a stock engine/turbo combo? how is theese too drive with, need much rpm to get truck moving? running 35" tires, and stock one need enough rpm to get truck moving.
No one can say. its a used converter and without it being sent out to be cut open and inspected, you are taking a risk.
 

Bbuchanan11

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I just burnt one up last year that was in my truck since like 2010 had a lot of passes on it was 100 percent fine until I tried a few 2nd gear starts.
 

N2BRK

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I wouldn't think its stator would survive many 2nd gear starts.

Mine was a pleasure to drive locally day to day, but with the larger charger I just blew right through and wasn't putting power to pavement when I'd goose the loud pedal. I lived with it for about 5 years, through the use of a lockbox. My current converter (1077) makes the truck feel a bit laggy (Mark revised the tune and made a huge improvement for me!) but at any given moment, the ratio of hp reaching the tires vs hp out the tailpipe is a hell of a lot better, LOL.
 

Bdsankey

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Mike L quit using them (Precision Industries) for a reason, that's good enough for me to not run them. I have first hand experience with 2 of them and they seemed to be OK but like said above they didn't couple the best compared to other brands. They (Precision) do not all come with billet stators (same holds true with other brands) which also is a negative if someone is going to drive the truck hard/abuse it.


I wouldn't think its stator would survive many 2nd gear starts.

Mine was a pleasure to drive locally day to day, but with the larger charger I just blew right through and wasn't putting power to pavement when I'd goose the loud pedal. I lived with it for about 5 years, through the use of a lockbox. My current converter (1077) makes the truck feel a bit laggy (Mark revised the tune and made a huge improvement for me!) but at any given moment, the ratio of hp reaching the tires vs hp out the tailpipe is a hell of a lot better, LOL.

It also doesn't help that you have a 68r and a 2000 stall converter, the 1078 or Goerend R/DL/DK/BF would have been a better fit. The 1078/R/DL/DK are 2300rpm stall and the BF is around 2500rpm.
 

TheBac

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Brad, the reason Mike stopped using them was b/c better options came out later on, not that they werent somehow "no good". I believe he also had a falling out with them over the designs, as they werent sticking to what he wanted.
There's a reason those converters were called "MikeL" converters by us old-schoolers.
But, one thing Mike never did was to "stand on his laurels". He was constantly trying to find something better, which helped all of us.
I have one of the first 5-10 "pink" Precision converters ever made for the Allison. 100s of passes in the 12s way back when you were still in high school.
Still works fine for every day driving. Not so sure Id bring BBT out of mothballs and race now with it, though. Guess it would still work if need be.
 
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Bdsankey

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Brad, the reason Mike stopped using them was b/c better options came out later on, not that they werent somehow "no good". There's a reason those converters were called "MikeL" converters for a very long time, and still are to us old-schoolers. But, one thing Mike never did was to "stand on his laurels". He was constantly trying to find something better, which helped all of us.
I had one of the first 10 "pink" Precision converters made. 100s of passes in the 12s.

I could've sworn he had issues with them and had to warranty out some units, I certainly could be imagining things.


Also being a 1700rpm stall it is not an ML converter as I recall those being 1900 area stall. Precision doesn't like to use billet stators unless specifically ordered that way whereas Goerend/SunCoast offer both with their more widely known models typically having billet stators.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Well yeah....people were putting them in trucks that they werent designed for. Then second gear starts became a "thing" and the converters just couldnt hold up to that.
 

N2BRK

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It also doesn't help that you have a 68r and a 2000 stall converter, the 1078 or Goerend R/DL/DK/BF would have been a better fit. The 1078/R/DL/DK are 2300rpm stall and the BF is around 2500rpm.

I wound up with the 1077 by a fortunate accident. I built my truck and a buddy's identical truck with the 1078 - all things being a compromise, I like the 1077 better. It's personal preference not really right nor wrong. As for the other converters that you mentioned, I can't speak to any except the R - it was terrible on my truck. I blew through it so badly that I was just shocked. On a stock truck I'm sure it's great, but it's a terrible choice for my truck. I've had direct experience with my truck spinning a 777, Precision ML, R, K, 1078, and 1077 - the 1077 is the best compromise for my truck and my satisfaction. Others may disagree, but I'll bet few have the breadth of experience with all these converters in their own truck, LMAO.

FWIW, stall is a wonderful reference to discuss converters, but it's only a small piece of the overall picture, and stall is also a moving target - my 8000# empty truck with 700hp will stall differently than someone else's "same" truck with different weight and power. Since there are so many variables, I'll wager that what we read in product literature for stall speed is with a stock truck and bears little real-world meaning once you get to where a lot of us have arrived with our builds. Still, it's a good way to compare one feature of the converter in a relatively common language.
 

Bdsankey

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I wound up with the 1077 by a fortunate accident. I built my truck and a buddy's identical truck with the 1078 - all things being a compromise, I like the 1077 better. It's personal preference not really right nor wrong. As for the other converters that you mentioned, I can't speak to any except the R - it was terrible on my truck. I blew through it so badly that I was just shocked. On a stock truck I'm sure it's great, but it's a terrible choice for my truck. I've had direct experience with my truck spinning a 777, Precision ML, R, K, 1078, and 1077 - the 1077 is the best compromise for my truck and my satisfaction. Others may disagree, but I'll bet few have the breadth of experience with all these converters in their own truck, LMAO.

FWIW, stall is a wonderful reference to discuss converters, but it's only a small piece of the overall picture, and stall is also a moving target - my 8000# empty truck with 700hp will stall differently than someone else's "same" truck with different weight and power. Since there are so many variables, I'll wager that what we read in product literature for stall speed is with a stock truck and bears little real-world meaning once you get to where a lot of us have arrived with our builds. Still, it's a good way to compare one feature of the converter in a relatively common language.

I completely agree on stall being subjective/having to do with setups. I do find it odd you blew through the R as I've used it in trucks from stock to right around 900-1000hp in compounds and never once had that experience in ~20-25 converters out there in that stall.

I personally am not a fan of the K, it doesn't seem to do what is advertised which is why we started using the BF as it fills that void between an R/DK/DL and a J.
 

Chevy1925

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I dont think there is any point in riding why mike quit using them or using his reasoning as to why not to use that converter. i know the full story but its a mute point and not warranted to be posted. For their time, the ML precision was a great converter but things changed and hence mike changed sources.

Instead, thats why i posted what i did. We just go back to the fact it is a used converter and it needs to be checked out before i would ever drop it into my trans. it would really suck to spend all day pulling the trans, putting the converter in, go drive it and then find its sent trash through my system which plugs up the heat exchanger in the rad, plugs the filter, deprives clutches of oil and you burn up the C3's first with the other clutches to follow. If hes getting it real cheap and it checks out good, it would be a godo converter to use in a truck. not the best that is availible by any means but far better than stock or an uprated single disk.

I ran a ML Precision for 6 years. it did great till i was at 600hp and 1200-1300ft lbs. then it would blow through the converter giving me a difference of 2200rpm between engine rpm and trans input speed. that was just in 1st gear. at about the 4-5 year mark of having that converter, EFI Live released the beta on converter lock up command for early trucks. Steve called me and we put that tune in, i had lock up every time 1/2 way through 2nd gear like you should BUT it was the early demise for the converter. Between towing like i did and large slip difference with TCC happing during that time, the clutch lining started coming apart and took my trans out. it was fun blowing off 37's when converter lock up hit though. funny enough, i was headed to mikes to put a G converter in anyhow because i wanted better coupling. we wound up having to rebuild the whole trans because the filter was plugging up and it took out the C1, 2 and 3's.

switching to the G was an awesome upgrade. Slip difference dropped significantly (i think it was down to 1000rpm) which meant more power to the ground before lock up and the triple clutches would now last far longer. it was also a billet stator unlike the ML Precision which meant you had more had more wiggle room with boost launching. the ML you had to make sure you didnt overheat it or you would flip the stator fins over and now you just got a 3500rpm stall converter that didnt couple for shit.