Nitrous: NXD4000 - Nozzle Installation

Bdsankey

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Do I need to buy weld in bungs for my cold side intercooler pipe to mount the nitrous express 1/8npt bungs or can I just drill/tap the pipe? Do I have to mount in the cold side? Is it better to mount in the hot side?



It is HSP piping and seems fairly thick where I don't think I'll have a problem with blowout.
 

JoshH

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How thick is it? If it isn't at least 3/16" thick, I would weld a bung.
 

Bdsankey

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I'm not near my piping currently (and this is probably a dumb question) but does HSP use aluminum or steel? I believe it to be steel based off of feel but can't confirm without being there.
 

JoshH

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They have used both. Most of their new kits use steel piping though.
 

Bdsankey

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Confirmed with HSP that it is steel. I just ordered some bungs off of McMaster Carr. 4 bungs and 2 plugs giving me some placement options.

Wonder if the air on the hot side would destroy a HOBB switch? Guess I'd have to check my switch's temp rating.
 

2004LB7

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Run a small length of copper or aluminum tubing to the switch. That should keep the heat from destroying it
 

Bdsankey

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Run a small length of copper or aluminum tubing to the switch. That should keep the heat from destroying it
At that point I just put it in the y-bridge like my 0-100psi sensor from Edge.

If I wasn't trying to be OCD about running an odd-ball low pressure supply system then it wouldn't be a problem.
 

JoshH

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At that point I just put it in the y-bridge like my 0-100psi sensor from Edge.

If I wasn't trying to be OCD about running an odd-ball low pressure supply system then it wouldn't be a problem.
Why not just put it on a toggle? If you are going to be running it hard, flip it on; if you are just cruising on the street, leave it off.
 

2004LB7

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Are you going to have enough time to get your automatic system diled in and activating at the right time before the competition?

May actually be easier, as Josh suggested, to just put it on a switch. But I get your resigning for it being automatic. Watching the competition for many years it seems no ones rig runs right at first and requires tuning and adjustments once there.

Boost wont be as high, the pressure switch may not activate at the same time, etc. But when manually activated it will always come on when you want it to
 

Bdsankey

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Are you going to have enough time to get your automatic system diled in and activating at the right time before the competition?

May actually be easier, as Josh suggested, to just put it on a switch. But I get your resigning for it being automatic. Watching the competition for many years it seems no ones rig runs right at first and requires tuning and adjustments once there.

Boost wont be as high, the pressure switch may not activate at the same time, etc. But when manually activated it will always come on when you want it to
The activation is going to be set at ~10psi to switch to high speed. Low speed is around 120gph so that should support a fair bit of power.




I honestly am debating about switching from Duramax Tuner to Starlite simply because Starlite is at elevation already and has more experience with helping big singles light on fuel at that thin of air.


The only thing I don't know about is how to program the maximizer 5. It should be able to tap into my 0-100psi sensor for my CTS2 as a boost reading. I need to figure out a tach wire, TPS, and VSS (optional). I am really hoping to use the maximizer 5 to apply nitrous at low boost using their "spool" function. I also don't know where to start with it jet wise. Planning to start with the two smallest jets and work up from there. The truck has more fuel than air.
 

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