yeah I am. im basically just hoping the drivers side head is good, and the crank. Now ive got to decide if i want to piece together a motor from a new block and rods, pistons ect. or if i get a reman. This engine has 83K on it, so If the crank is ok Id like to use it.IMO, you wrecked the engine. Sorry. Might be able to salvage something from it, but expect the worst.....
Agreed, I bet you floated a valve which took out the head and piston. When I lost my piston I just had a rough idle and was burning oil. Sadly valvetrain upgrade are over looked on most stock bottom ends.Ouch!
yup, like zerogravity said. over-revving it floats the valves. you can either pop the keepers off doing that and drop a valve or if its bad enough, the piston hits the valve, bends the stem, breaks the head off and the valve head kills the piston, head, etc.
compression test aint worth it now lol
do not buy the mahle OE replacement pistons. they are known to be weaker than a set of GM lb7 pistons. if you are going the stock route, buy LB7 pistons from GM and delip them. otherwise id pony up and buy a set of mahle race cast. if you are staying on stock injectors, you are still going to run the risk of cracking them. only fingers pistons would be trustworthy enough to handle high pulse width, high timing stock injectors. if you keep your pulse width down under the 1500uS area, race cast will be fine for the hp you want. beyond 1500uS is deminishing returns anyhow in relation to engine healthYeah after I posted that I watched mahles video comparing the two. I'll probably go with a factory set and delip them. I don't need a high horsepower capable engine. Just a good towing one, and one that can handle 600-700hp of short street sprints. I'll probably start a thread in the engine building section next.
Because according to that head, those piston pieces went all thru the engine. I wouldnt use any internal parts from that engine.Why wouldn't you use the crank and the cam if they look good?