LMM No Crank No Start (sorta)

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Alright, i got a problem truck at the shop and need some fresh views.

07 lmm came in with a no crank no start. Battery’s test good on both digital and with old school analog. Plugged in scanner and no communication. Ohmed 6 and 14, had 60ohms. Had 2.3 and 2.7 volts on same lines. Did power and ground test on ecm and found pin 76 had no power. Continuity test was good back to the fuse block. Found fuse that supplies 76 had 4.5v. Basically relay “pwr/trn” relay was not sending full voltage and swapping relays made no difference. Load testing both the fuse block and pin 76 wire showed no issues so we turned to a ground issue. All grounds tested good though. Put a ground on the ecm and boom, fires up, get ecm comm but we have a p0090 and p2510 code. Plus says 7 of 8 glow plugs are dead.

Now regardless of the ground on the ecm, we find no power on the 12v power to the fpr and turbo solenoid. No output at the ecm. Fpr and turbo wire all load test fine. We check the ground on the fpr wire for resistance and its at 11 ohms. Clean the ground wire at the block and verify engine bulk head connectors are good and we get resistance down to under an ohm from ground on connector back to battery. Put a good used ecm in, flash it, no crank no stsrt is back after 3 times trying to start. 4 time, starts up. Regulator sometimes works, sometimes goes wide open. Same with turbo solenoid. When they dont work, same issue of no voltage for fpr or solenoid.

We have combed the harness looking for issues. None to be found. Im really leading towards a ground issue. Jumping can bus wires makes no difference (really shouldnt since resistance and voltage is in spec). I may have missed some other tests weve done.

Thoughts? According to the customer, this came out of the blue. Hes not done a thing to it before or after this
 

CDmax16

Member
Mar 3, 2018
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I found an old thread where a guy was having a similar issue and getting the p2510 code. His turned out to be corrosion on the circuit board of the fuse box.



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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Ignition switch failure?

Possible. Watching scan data, the ecm never shows start signal. I need to find where it shows each switch position though

I found an old thread where a guy was having a similar issue and getting the p2510 code. His turned out to be corrosion on the circuit board of the fuse box.



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We have a brand new one we tried in it, no difference. I should add the 4.5v issue at the pwr/trn relay is now gone
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
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Possible. Watching scan data, the ecm never shows start signal. I need to find where it shows each switch position though
Pretty sure I posted diagrams with those layouts in my thread..

Was going to ask if the engine starts if you jump the starter with key in the on position. Think you implied yes but dies?
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Truck starts every time right now but sometimes has a slight delay between when you hit the key start to having a couple second delay to hear it crank from when you hit start. Will not start on the original ecm without adding a ground to the ecm
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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Wait a sec? The truck runs now?

Internal ground fault with the ecm was the problem?
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Yes its in the original post, so i guess its not a “true” no crank no start but we have issues still and its not consistent.

To add, the old ecm has no power coming out to the fpr either once you add the ground and fire it up
 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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Yes its in the original post, so i guess its not a “true” no crank no start but we have issues still and its not consistent.

To add, the old ecm has no power coming out to the fpr either once you add the ground and fire it up
Did this one have a jumper cable mishap? Kinda sounds like some failed inputs & outputs on the ECM if the wires and connectors are good
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Did this one have a jumper cable mishap? Kinda sounds like some failed inputs & outputs on the ECM if the wires and connectors are good

According ti the customer, no. Known good ecm has the same issue on outputs too
 

N2BRK

Well-known member
Dec 31, 2009
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dumb question, but did they just do some work to the truck? Alternator and FPR plugs could be plugged in wrong. You'll get the two aforementioned codes if they are backwards.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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You are getting an OK to crank signal from the trans?

That ill need to check. We have not looked at that

dumb question, but did they just do some work to the truck? Alternator and FPR plugs could be plugged in wrong. You'll get the two aforementioned codes if they are backwards.


Those are plugged in correctly. I had an 09 here for a bit that we referenced things off of
 

NC-smokinlmm

<<<Future tuna killer
May 29, 2011
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At Da Beach
I’ve seen a close lighting strike cause issues like your seeing. The amperage causes the boards to flash heat and the solder flows off and causes weird issues. I’m dealing with a boat that got hit last week, I had a marathon install session yesterday so he can fish the Big Rock Blue Marlin Tournament.
 

NC-smokinlmm

<<<Future tuna killer
May 29, 2011
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Sounds like a gasoline and matches situation ?

He fired the money cannon and replaced everything including all the network cables. My guys and I were all over it like ants on a mound. It’s fishing tomorrow, Deep Color, if your bored check out my world and listen to the Big Rock radio broadcasts, it’s cool. Lots of big marlin come thru the scales…

My boats fishing are, Deep Color, Doc Fees, Game Keeper, J&B, Hammer Time.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Update

Fucked around with it more yesterday and today. Found vampires taps (scotch locks) under the steering column cover from a previous breathalyzer the dude had. He threw that at us last week to look at. Sure enough, wires were mostly cut. Fixed those and now it starts on the new ecm.

Did not fix the fpr or turbo solenoid. Sometimes we get 12v to the fpr, sometimes not. When it does, runs great, then boom… looses it within 20-30 sec. Fiddle fucking around with the harness off the ecm we can get the fpr voltage to change so we tore it back apart. No bad wires but both nate and i are convinced its something with the pins or connector now. New pins make no difference (used LLY dsp ones as a temp trial) BUT you push hard as hell on the ecm connector and everything works perfect .

So its something with the connector not seating right or just lost its clamping ability
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Doesnt matter, we change the pin out all together and no change.

Ordered a new connector through Mouser (both connector and lock) and a handful of female terminal pigtails from fish tuning to fix the inevitable broken or bad pins we create changing the connector over

Have an update in a couple days