Not since I did a few years ago, but I just can't see it being plugged. There is virtually no bugs in the intercooler. Truck is always stored inside. I've only put probably 5k on it in the last 5 years.
Well I'm going to give his clutch another shot I guess. He doesn't accept returns, so I will be trying to get it warrantied. When the trans temp hit 210, it's crazy it wouldn't even cool down when I idling for 15 minutes. It would drop to 208 for about 5 seconds then back up to 210. After reinstalling the Hayden it was at 180 idling no problem.
I run the lower temp mishimoto's year round. I started running them a few years back when I was attempting the same fix. It helps a little as when the temps start to rise, the fan kicks in a little bit sooner and you can milk it a little longer. As James mentioned, these cooling systems are already taxed so they need some additional support.
Last year APRIL I installed my compound turbo kit. Shortly thereafter, I needed to upgrade intercoolers and so I removed the entire stack to do so. I was shocked how much was between the rad and intercooler. It's not visible from the outside. there's a bit of a low pressure area at the center of the cooling fan that collects the most debris/dirt/dust. I washed the entire stack out and re-assembled. During my build this year, I decided to put in a new radiator because I was there. I was again shocked at the debris between the two. Not nearly as bad as the first time, but definitely enough to impact performance. I'm going to make it a yearly maintenance item if I continue to tow the way I do. It's worth a shot. I live in NV and we don't see a lot of humidity but the dust/dirt/light debris from the road are regular.
The fan clutches use a mechanically actuated spring (think old thermostat in your house attached to a mercury switch). As the heat transfers through the stack, the spring deforms which actuates the clutch and locks in the fan. I believe the fan is engaged "cold" and the spring opens up to an "operating range" which the fan is in roughly free spin (its actually engaged but at a much lower %). As temps rise, the spring deforms, engages the clutch and you should then have nearly 1-1 rotation of fan clutch to fan. As the clutch wears out, the fan will slip and start falling away from the 1-1 AND moves more toward free spin during the normal operating range. This can contribute to the high pressure side on the AC system going out of tolerance and having issues there, not to mention difficulty maintaining normal temps.
Everything including the upper grill to support piece that people always remove. I don't think I removed the rad. If memory servers me right I took the intercooler out and kinda pryed the front coolers out of the way. I do remember it was pretty much spotless. A little dirt came out when I pressure washed the intercooler.
