I was towing my trailer loaded with about 16,000 pounds from Florida to New Mexico. on the hills my EGT would clime to 900/1000. But when I hit Dallas TX, my engine temp started following the high EGT. If the EGT went above 900, the engine temp started climing above 210 and the only reason it did not reach 260 was because I took my foot way out. I have 4in exht, bully dog progam in T/H, K&N cold air intake, and twin heavy duty electric fans from F/L. With no load I am now running between 600/700 on the highway. Thanks for any help.
engine over heat with high EGT
- Thread starter masternav04
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- egt engine overheat towing
Welcome to the site!
What motor are you running? Year of the truck and all?
I see you have dual taurus fans and are pretty heavy, I'm thinking in the texas heat those fans aren't pulling enough air to keep you cool... It's a edu-macated(not by much) guess though...
What motor are you running? Year of the truck and all?
I see you have dual taurus fans and are pretty heavy, I'm thinking in the texas heat those fans aren't pulling enough air to keep you cool... It's a edu-macated(not by much) guess though...
I have the LLY, 2005 and the dual Flex-a-lite settup from summit, I know they are pulling more air than the factory fan.
I am NOT in any way trying to argue or prove you wrong, I only know what I've read but i thought the factory fan was superior to those...
Either way, the first thing I would do is check all your relays and fuses to make sure they're BOTH coming on.... Hopefully it's something simple!
Either way, the first thing I would do is check all your relays and fuses to make sure they're BOTH coming on.... Hopefully it's something simple!
both fans are working, but you may be right about the factory fan. I still have my factory stuff. is 600/700 EGT high without a trailer in this area
The EGT itself sounds right, (heck a little LOW for my LBZ - which is great! my lbz at 72 is about 700 empty)... Pulling 13k in a 80/90 degrees (I just did it the other day) running at 62mph in 5th I'm at around 950.
Give me a headwind and its 1050/1100 sometimes.
Give me a headwind and its 1050/1100 sometimes.
I have also been told that those electric fans are not enough for towing. The electric fans use 1/2 hp to drive the fans and stock uses 10 hp just an comparison for you.
Another thing is you're tuned...my numbers are completely stock.
I usually tow stock power numbers, i've done it with a tune on a hill where i couldnt pull over and the EGTs were so high I wound up doing 25mph up it to keep it in check... stock tune I've done that hill at 45
The tuner changes the EGTs, with more power it needs more fuel and it alters the timing and boost...
I usually tow stock power numbers, i've done it with a tune on a hill where i couldnt pull over and the EGTs were so high I wound up doing 25mph up it to keep it in check... stock tune I've done that hill at 45
The tuner changes the EGTs, with more power it needs more fuel and it alters the timing and boost...
no chance in hell those flex-a-lites are moving more air than the factory wind tunnel fan.
Yesterday just pulled my ChrisTx electric fans out. Dual huge, high power ones. No, not enough compared to stock, not even close. Heard electric was good to about 10,000 lbs. but when it's hot, 6,000 wasn't enough. Heard the stock fan was about 28 RWHP at 3,000 rpm. It moves a ton of air.
I am really curious, what was it that led you to think that electric fans would be an improvement over stock airflow?
Your EGT is normal, and these vehicles don't have any real correlation between coolant temp and EGT. What you really want to know, is what your IAT was.
If you put your factory fan back on, read THIS. You will need to understand the realtionship between the fan, IAT, and induction overheating (EGT unrelated). The importance of True cold air, or some other induction cooling remedy
Your EGT is normal, and these vehicles don't have any real correlation between coolant temp and EGT. What you really want to know, is what your IAT was.
If you put your factory fan back on, read THIS. You will need to understand the realtionship between the fan, IAT, and induction overheating (EGT unrelated). The importance of True cold air, or some other induction cooling remedy
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Rating electric fans by HP is useless, because every electric fan makes a 10:1 TQ ratio any way, some even higher.
and TQ is what will keep the electric fan in motion, HP would just use up more power and accelerate the fan.
The engineers that make these fans are not stupid, and are liable for there mystakes in engineering, Flex a light has been around a while, and there fans have a rating on them, plus d-maxes have had over heating issues with a stock fan, which run's on a clutch, so a problems excist's before modification.
look at the pro's and cons, before buying another fan.
your egt's are fine, actually your 210* engine temp is fine too.
have you tried backing down on your fueling? this will help.
and TQ is what will keep the electric fan in motion, HP would just use up more power and accelerate the fan.
The engineers that make these fans are not stupid, and are liable for there mystakes in engineering, Flex a light has been around a while, and there fans have a rating on them, plus d-maxes have had over heating issues with a stock fan, which run's on a clutch, so a problems excist's before modification.
look at the pro's and cons, before buying another fan.
your egt's are fine, actually your 210* engine temp is fine too.
have you tried backing down on your fueling? this will help.
Actually, this company does not properly rate the fans, IIRC. Few companies will publish a meaningful flow number. The only meaningful flow number is accompanied by a pressure drop #.
Have ever run a Flex-a-Lite Dmax kit or towed heavy with a Dmax?
The F/L does not keep up with the stocker, nor is it engineered that well, as it nearly set my truck on fire from melting their inadequate fuse block. They eventually fixed the fire hazard, but they are still far weaker than the stock fan.
I've run both ways, and I can tell you for a fact the F/L is not suitable for heavy use. Nor did it improve my ET's, since the factory fan is not engaged while going down the dragstrip.
Basically, do not buy a Flex-a-Lite. Not a good mod for our trucks. Maybe for racing to cool the engine between passes, but not for towing.
This is another industry with (highly) deceptive marketing.
In cold weather, you can just remove the fan till spring, unless you will be towing. The price of this option is better also. I have never understood why anyone would do this. It represents a reduction in utility, with none of the advertised benefits. The parasitic pull of a stock LB7 fan at 70 mph, in full slip, is 0 HP. For an LLY, less than 2 HP. The AC benefits of the stock fan are superior at stops also. And reliability is not even close.
In cold weather, you can just remove the fan till spring, unless you will be towing. The price of this option is better also. I have never understood why anyone would do this. It represents a reduction in utility, with none of the advertised benefits. The parasitic pull of a stock LB7 fan at 70 mph, in full slip, is 0 HP. For an LLY, less than 2 HP. The AC benefits of the stock fan are superior at stops also. And reliability is not even close.
Just wondering how? Is it due to the incoming air spinning our fan at 70? Doesn't the fan clutch have resistence, even though it's slipping, requiring torque?
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I know the IAT is the true Source of the engine over temp, but good point. I was just figured if my EGT was going up; the IAT was going up since the turbo is working harder. And it looks like I should have asked around before getting the electric fans. I got the biggest fan setup I could find designed for my truck (not universal). With engine HP freed up from removing the stock fan, and the electric fans having a shroud, I thought it would be an improvement. Lots of good info from every reply.
Wish I would have done more homework before getting the fan kit.
Wish I would have done more homework before getting the fan kit.