can't get 5sp lockup controller to work

[[email protected]]

I've checked my ground and it goes to zero ohms across the bc ground wire so I know I have a good ground, but it seemed to almost force lock/unlock when I had it ground to the throttle bracket. The brake circuit also goes on off with a test light and I'm sure I have the correct pins tapped at the tcm. The led light will light up blue brightly in neutral but when you press lock or unlock it will light up green or red for less that half a second and almost feel like it going to lock but then the light just goes really dim and the buttons don't respond. When I first installed it it worked one or twice when I forced locked it, but it did not work long. I'm getting accelerator position codes which probably means I have a bad ground connection but I am tapped into the same bcm pink and black/white wires it says to use in the instructions. Once it shifts to fifth at cruise with the tc locked it will also not unlock our downshift even at WOT, but it will in tow haul.

I'm also assuming that I can ignore all the part about the steering wheel controls and just leave the green wire alone. I also have a insulated silver strand of wires just sitting the next to the green wire in the big grey insulated cable going to the tcm? The instructions seemed like you could just add a toggle switch to the pink 12 volt wire and your steering wheel controls would lock with the switch on which doesn't seem right as there would be absolutely no connection to the steering wheel?

I don't even care about the steering wheel controls but just wish I could make this thing workwmight sound stupid but what if I just hooked the pink and ground to a12 volt battery or maybe 2 6 volts in series and run the ground to the battery also?

 

[duratothemax]

I've checked my ground and it goes to zero ohms across the bc ground wire so I know I have a good ground, but it seemed to almost force lock/unlock when I had it ground to the throttle bracket. The brake circuit also goes on off with a test light and I'm sure I have the correct pins tapped at the tcm. The led light will light up blue brightly in neutral but when you press lock or unlock it will light up green or red for less that half a second and almost feel like it going to lock but then the light just goes really dim and the buttons don't respond. When I first installed it it worked one or twice when I forced locked it, but it did not work long. I'm getting accelerator position codes which probably means I have a bad ground connection but I am tapped into the same bcm pink and black/white wires it says to use in the instructions. Once it shifts to fifth at cruise with the tc locked it will also not unlock our downshift even at WOT, but it will in tow haul.

I'm also assuming that I can ignore all the part about the steering wheel controls and just leave the green wire alone. I also have a insulated silver strand of wires just sitting the next to the green wire in the big grey insulated cable going to the tcm? The instructions seemed like you could just add a toggle switch to the pink 12 volt wire and your steering wheel controls would lock with the switch on which doesn't seem right as there would be absolutely no connection to the steering wheel?

I don't even care about the steering wheel controls but just wish I could make this thing workwmight sound stupid but what if I just hooked the pink and ground to a12 volt battery or maybe 2 6 volts in series and run the ground to the battery also?

It sounds like you dont have a good solid connection at the brake pedal switch, or your brake pedal switch is a little flaky. For safety reasons, if the brake pedal wire tap become loose or has an intermittent connection, the lockup controller will default to "off".

There is no connection to the steering wheel, I had to temporarily discontinue the steering wheel control function because there were some issues with it (the steering wheel control interface) that Im in the process of fixing.

The accelerator pedal is a "ghost" code, it wont set a check engine light and it wont affect normal operation.

Double check that the connection at the brake pedal is solid, and then try soldering it if that doesnt work. If you have any other problems just send me an email and we'll get it worked out.

Ben

 

[[email protected]]

Ok thanks for the help.I sent you an email to [email protected]. I can try soldering but I need to find someone who can actually do it.I'm tapped into the brake switch with the scothlocl connector that came with it. Is there any kind of other connectors you would recommend? When I put a test light on the metal on the connector coming out of the tap to the purple brake switch it lights up bright and goes out when I push the brake.when in neutral the blue light lights up bright but then one you hit fifth in cruise and the stock command congress on to lock the torque converter the light I think completely goes out our either really dim and no response from the controller. The good news is that it seems my tc is locking smoother sometimes and the stupid 1-2 overly defueled pause that the 05 tcm os does seemed to only happen sometimes now instead of always. Thanks for thehelp again and I'm going to double check the connections.

 

[[email protected]]

After messing with it more I went out and got the presoldered heat shrinkingconnectors and redid the tcm brake, and tps wires and it still did not work. It would force unlock but when you tried to lock it out would go green for less that a second then go off. So then I redid the ground and pink bcm power wire with the solder connections and now it's working fine.

The only thing is I've been losing reverse a lot because I've been messing around with it at low speeds. Since efi live dissent have the tcm diagnostics available I guess there is no getting rid of this, so I've ended up needing reverse and having to wait to start the laptop to clear the code.

I guess the main thing is all the wires need a good connection even if they are getting fire at the box with a test light, the ground wire connecting to the bcm ground wire and the presoldered connections worked for me.

 

[duratothemax]

After messing with it more I went out and got the presoldered heat shrinkingconnectors and redid the tcm brake, and tps wires and it still did not work. It would force unlock but when you tried to lock it out would go green for less that a second then go off. So then I redid the ground and pink bcm power wire with the solder connections and now it's working fine.

The only thing is I've been losing reverse a lot because I've been messing around with it at low speeds. Since efi live dissent have the tcm diagnostics available I guess there is no getting rid of this, so I've ended up needing reverse and having to wait to start the laptop to clear the code.

I guess the main thing is all the wires need a good connection even if they are getting fire at the box with a test light, the ground wire connecting to the bcm ground wire and the presoldered connections worked for me.

I was actually just in the middle of writing you an email now!

Glad you got it figured out. Let me know if you have any other problems in the future.

Ben

 

[[email protected]]

Is there anything I can do about the shift range inhibited it seems like it's coming up even when I don't try to force lock at all I guess shutting off the mil lamp request on the engine diagnosis wouldn't do anything it keeps giving me tcc electrical circuit codes.

Also is there any way to make it go into automatic mode everyone you crank it instead of having to push the blue button everytime you start it?

 

[duratothemax]

hmm so even when you dont even use the controller and leave it alone, it still comes up with range shift inhibited? How often does it come up? What is the exact code number?

 

[[email protected]]

I attached a picture but its giving a P0743(torque converter clutch circuit electrical) both pending and current and both epa and non epa. Im pretty sure its happening when I force lock it no matter the speed but im going to clear the codes then drive around without touching anything and see what happends.

 

[gmduramax]

I attached a picture but its giving a P0743(torque converter clutch circuit electrical) both pending and current and both epa and non epa. Im pretty sure its happening when I force lock it no matter the speed but im going to clear the codes then drive around without touching anything and see what happends.

You are only forcing lock up under WOT correct?

 

[duratothemax]

I think you have a bad connection at the TCM. Have you double-checked the black and white wires going to the TCM harness? And made sure the pins are fully seated.

Ben

 

[[email protected]]

I redid the wiring at the tcm with solder connectors also but not the black and brown heat shrink connection. It could be me though no thinking I messed with it but did. I'm assuming it will think the tcc is stuck on anytime your below the tcc apply speeds for part throttle and wot. I'm going to reset the codes again and make sure not touch anything.

Does the module rreset after each key off? Would there be any way to make it always default to auto mode that way you would never have to press any buttons unless you wanted?

 

[[email protected]]

So it's definitely still doing it the only button I pressed on the controller is the blue button and I've had to get out my computer and clear the code before I could back up.I've double checked everything at the tcm and looks fine but if it was a bad connection wouldn't the behavior be more erratic new throwing weird communication codes instead of consistently the same tcc electrical code? I hope I don't get stuck somewhere important and can't back up.

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

:hello:

 

[duratothemax]

So it's definitely still doing it the only button I pressed on the controller is the blue button and I've had to get out my computer and clear the code before I could back up.I've double checked everything at the tcm and looks fine but if it was a bad connection wouldn't the behavior be more erratic new throwing weird communication codes instead of consistently the same tcc electrical code? I hope I don't get stuck somewhere important and can't back up.

Ok so without touching the controller at all...meaning not pushing any buttons, and with the LED off...it still sets a code and inhibits reverse?

 

[duratothemax]

:hello:

Not sure what you're getting at?

If you could please explain, that would be great. Otherwise, if you dont want to explain, delete your post. You're cluttering up my section of the forum.

 

[[email protected]]

Without hitting anything except the blue button to make sure it's in auto mode, it will inhibit reverse. I cleared it again and I'm not going to touch anything today and see what happens.

 

[[email protected]]

Ok I cleared codes this morning then drove then parked and put it into reverse to park worked fine. Couple hours later got back in checked reverse worked fine drove then got back and had to use reverse to get into a parking space and wouldn't work so I kept cutting it off and on and didn't work so I had to take out the laptop and clear them. Since I cleared them this morning I have not touched anything on the controller and have not gone Wot but have gone fast enough for the converter to lock at cruise.

Could it have something to do with a drive to reverse shift because it never does it in the driveway from park, or maybe it doesn't do it because the trans isn't warm yet?

 

[[email protected]]

Is there any fast way to clear codes like connect the terminals on the odb port like for checking and clearing codes on older aldl stuff?

 

[duratothemax]

If its inhibiting reverse without pressing any of the buttons or anything (just leaving it "off") then there must be a loose connection somewhere, or an issue with the wiring harness.

When the controller is off, the factory TCC apply signal is completely untouched by any of the electronics in the lockup controller, it is a direct loop in from the TCM and back out to the trans. Even if there is no power or ground or anything going to the lockup controller and its completely turned off, it will still default to "passthrough" mode and the TCC and everything will work just like factory.

PM me your shipping address, and I can send you a replacement wiring harness; maybe one of the pins on the connector has a loose crimp or something? Thats the only thing I can think of, or a pin isnt seated fully in the TCM connector.

Ben

 

[blk smoke lb7]

Just curious Ben do you by chance have a test stand for these boxes to test them ?