Aluminum Radiators?

[Bdsankey]

Radiator with leaking tank at seam
View attachment 136280

Pry with screwdriver to open the little tabs
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After screwdriver, you can carefully open them a little more with some pliers
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Screwdriver again to pop the tanks off
View attachment 136283

Tank removed
View attachment 136284

Carefully remove the gasket and save it
View attachment 136285

Wash and clean everything. Opportunity to clean out the inside of the radiator channels
View attachment 136286

Thoroughly clean out the channel where the gasket sits and apply ATV or whatever the strongest version you can find
View attachment 136287

Put the gasket in and apply another bead of ATV
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Put the tanks back on and bend the tabs back down tight
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Enjoy a leak free radiator
View attachment 136289

Only works if the plastic is not cracked and is only leaking at the interface between the aluminum and plastic. Allow for sufficient time for the ATV to cure properly before refilling radiator

Please excuse the ignorance, ATV sealant?

 

[2004LB7]

Please excuse the ignorance, ATV sealant?

Haha. Damn auto correct strikes again.

 

[WVRigrat05]

I'll have to try this. The OEM radiator did it at 60k. Replaced with an AC Delco from rock auto, started again at 80k ish, ran til 115k, put on a dorman, it made it until 140k. Put ARP studs etc, new OEM coolant tank and cap and a TYC radiator. It has 170k now and is leaking again. I've ran extended life orange stuff, been running Dex cool since the engine upgrade/rebuild, and same shit different summer. It has a 190 degree thermostat, verified with temp gun and hot water before installing. I've ran mitsimoto 180's, updated GM OEM, drilled out GM OEM, drilled out mitsimoto (saved my butt because it stuck closed) and now I'm running a whatever American trucks sells that's a 190. Keeps pressures down but still swelling the tank.
Did I mention I do still drive hard?

 

[TheBac]

If you guys are getting that much flex in your core support/radiator area to destroy radiators, have you all been checking your body and motor mounts for breakage/wear??? Something is over-torquing that support.

I was still on the original radiator in BBT at 229,000 miles when I sold her.

 

[2004LB7]

If you guys are getting that much flex in your core support/radiator area to destroy radiators, have you all been checking your body and motor mounts for breakage/wear??? Something is over-torquing that support.

I was still on the original radiator in BBT at 229,000 miles when I sold her.

Some people just break stuff....

 

[TheBac]

True, but it just seems there's another factor at work here....

 

[DAVe3283]

I agree, something seems off. I'm on my original radiator on my 2003 with 370,000 miles now, and I make 790 HP to the tire.

Sent from my CPH2655 using Tapatalk

 

[1FastBrick]

I'll have to try this. The OEM radiator did it at 60k. Replaced with an AC Delco from rock auto, started again at 80k ish, ran til 115k, put on a dorman, it made it until 140k. Put ARP studs etc, new OEM coolant tank and cap and a TYC radiator. It has 170k now and is leaking again. I've ran extended life orange stuff, been running Dex cool since the engine upgrade/rebuild, and same shit different summer. It has a 190 degree thermostat, verified with temp gun and hot water before installing. I've ran mitsimoto 180's, updated GM OEM, drilled out GM OEM, drilled out mitsimoto (saved my butt because it stuck closed) and now I'm running a whatever American trucks sells that's a 190. Keeps pressures down but still swelling the tank.
Did I mention I do still drive hard?

What about your oil cooler?