A/C line leaking at fitting

turbo_bu

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Mar 27, 2007
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Just in time for some extra summer heat, my 04 A/C is no longer blowing nice and cold. A quick look at the A/C line shows that the quick connect fitting toward the front of the truck has some dampness around the cap. I'm guessing that this might be my leak and need to recharge the system. Is this a known issue? Can you just replace that fitting, or do you have to replace the whole line? I would love not to have to take it to a garage to do a complete evacuation / vaccuum / recharge if I didn't have to.
 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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Are you referring to the schrader valve? If so, about all you can do is check if if the core or port are loose and tighten them up. Beyond that you are going to need to recover the refrigerant, replace the defective part and vacuum recharge the unit. If it doesn't stop leaking by tightening them then take it to a shop
 

turbo_bu

Member
Mar 27, 2007
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Central IL
Yes, where you connect to the high pressure port. I am attaching a picture of it with the cap off.

It looks like you can buy just that fitting, but I have never had good luck taking ac lines apart. They always seem to be stuck. Anyone ever just replaced one of the quick disconnects? Or should I just get that like which then comes with a new orfice valve?
 

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2004LB7

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I've taken those off before. But if you do you are going to loose all the refrigerant. Best to take it to a shop

If it's leaking at the black rubber ball, you can sometimes put a small screwdriver or nail or something similar and carefully tap down or rap on it lightly to reseat the ball. It may seal but if it doesn't then you have to replace it
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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I've replaced a bunch of those high pressure fittings on trucks. From what I've seen, it is a very common leak point. I've never had any trouble replacing them, but as has already been said, you will need to evacuate the system and vacuum it down before you recharge. You will lose everything and open the system to outside air when that fitting is removed. Dorman makes a replacement fitting that has a schrader valve instead of the rubber ball.
 

DAVe3283

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Sep 3, 2009
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I have also replaced a couple of those, even have the special socket. I usually just put a new stock-style one on, figured the first one lasted 15+ years, why bother changing it? I have schrader valves fail all the time too, I don't think the rubber ball is inherently worse.

Like Ron said, throw some soapy water on there then turn on the A/C to get it up to full pressure, a leak should be obvious.
 
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turbo_bu

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Mar 27, 2007
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Central IL
update - had a can of R134 in the garage and added it so that the compressor kept running. Unfortunately, the setup did not have a pressure gage to see just how low the charge was, or how high I was able to bring it up to. I can share that when I started, the A/C compressor would cycle on / off. After adding the R134, the compressor was able to stay running and cold air was coming out of the ducts. I put some soapy water on the high pressure fitting and there were a few tiny air bubbles. I need to get a gauge on the low pressure to see just how much is in there now.

DAVe3283 - are you replacing the whole "core" (aluminum body with center valve), or just unscrewing the middle valve assembly and replacing it?
 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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update - had a can of R134 in the garage and added it so that the compressor kept running. Unfortunately, the setup did not have a pressure gage to see just how low the charge was, or how high I was able to bring it up to. I can share that when I started, the A/C compressor would cycle on / off. After adding the R134, the compressor was able to stay running and cold air was coming out of the ducts. I put some soapy water on the high pressure fitting and there were a few tiny air bubbles. I need to get a gauge on the low pressure to see just how much is in there now.

DAVe3283 - are you replacing the whole "core" (aluminum body with center valve), or just unscrewing the middle valve assembly and replacing it?
The top half come off with the valve built in

81EE5YX3AtL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_FMwebp_~01.jpg
 
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