SDP also makes a 2 piece design. It enters from the top.
2014 Camaro SS LML Build Thread
- Thread starter Jakezed22
- Start date
Ended up going with the PPE unit. Best price and looks like it will fit the best also.
DHD return rails showed up. Gotta put together an order for some AN stuff. I’m thinking a fuel rail mounted somewhere for all the return lines. That should keep it neat a tidy. I want to make sure you can see those valve covers really good.
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DHD return rails showed up. Gotta put together an order for some AN stuff. I’m thinking a fuel rail mounted somewhere for all the return lines. That should keep it neat a tidy. I want to make sure you can see those valve covers really good.
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Got car out of storage a week ago and finally into the new garage. Its been so long that all i wanted to do is here it run before I start back on it. Many things to do but enjoy the vid! Havent had a diesel sound this cool since my 85 6.2 with dual straight pipes lol
FIRST START - Duramax swap camaro tr6060 twin turbo true dual exhaust - #camaross #duramax #diesel
Source: https://youtube.com/shorts/WwLudijXobk?feature=share
FIRST START - Duramax swap camaro tr6060 twin turbo true dual exhaust - #camaross #duramax #diesel
Ive got a set of PPEI valve covers on this thing. They are non-baffeled, and right now just have female npt thread. I need to do something for crank case vent, What is the common thing to do with after market covers? Is a catch can an option i should look at?
Well I wrote it all up real nice, then closed page by accident. My suggestions
1. Leave the deflectors on rocker rails, and bend up if need to better cover hole and knock down splashing oil from getting blown out.
2. Big catch can openings is most important. Trying to slow down the air speed is goal. I add SS scubbies in the cans for added surface area.
3. Drain back to factory check ball return on the LML front cover.
I screwed up and went with with 2 10AN, then doubled it to 4x 10AN and dual cans. Routing the lines high up also helps. But in the end, if you blow a piston, it's all coming out those two holes in about 3 seconds anyways..
Here is my best effort with custom venting.
1. Leave the deflectors on rocker rails, and bend up if need to better cover hole and knock down splashing oil from getting blown out.
2. Big catch can openings is most important. Trying to slow down the air speed is goal. I add SS scubbies in the cans for added surface area.
3. Drain back to factory check ball return on the LML front cover.
I screwed up and went with with 2 10AN, then doubled it to 4x 10AN and dual cans. Routing the lines high up also helps. But in the end, if you blow a piston, it's all coming out those two holes in about 3 seconds anyways..
Here is my best effort with custom venting.
Catch can is about all you can do. Unfortunately that is one reason most guys avoid billet valve covers, they look cool but then force you to spend hundreds more to cure a massive design flaw.
Well said.
Next set, I'm going with the proven 40year old Cummins separators on top the covers. Hard to make a better wheel...
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Next set, I'm going with the proven 40year old Cummins separators on top the covers. Hard to make a better wheel...
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That’s about what I have in my shopping cart besides that mine only have one -10 port in the centre of them. Looks like you’ve got two cans mounted there with two inlets each?
And by SS scrubbie, do you mean steel wool?
Maybe I’ll look at the Cummins idea, is that just the stick setup from say a 12v?
I started with just 2 10AN, no issues. The changes piston rings, forgot to break in again on non-synthetic oil, and started blowing the dipsticks out soon after. Doubled up then..
2 cans, cheapest I could find with AN fittings welded and drains. Knocked the baffles out to get more flow, and stuffed stainless wool inside. Added a brass check valve in return line, and so far so good .
The Cummins separator goes back to 12v I believe. Same unit on big C engines, plumbed to the ground..
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2 cans, cheapest I could find with AN fittings welded and drains. Knocked the baffles out to get more flow, and stuffed stainless wool inside. Added a brass check valve in return line, and so far so good .
The Cummins separator goes back to 12v I believe. Same unit on big C engines, plumbed to the ground..
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I’ve been slacking with the pictures and progress but finally jumping back in head first since I’m caught up refinishing the new garage. Hasn’t all been a waste tho, I’ve been trying to learn how to use Winols and Ghidra so I can make this LMM ecm run as a manual transmission. Getting very close and will be ready to start bricking ecm’s very soon lol. Anyways here’s some pics of mock up under the hood.
Working on this catch can, just want to go over some basics before i pick a mounting spot, Someone jump in if im wrong here?
-Catch can must be mounted above valve covers
-line to catch should not make an significant drops as to collect oil in
10 an from each valve cover into a dual 10 an in can that is baffled and vented. Then plan to run drain into the factory lml drain location, far as i can tell it has a one way check valve?
-Catch can must be mounted above valve covers
-line to catch should not make an significant drops as to collect oil in
10 an from each valve cover into a dual 10 an in can that is baffled and vented. Then plan to run drain into the factory lml drain location, far as i can tell it has a one way check valve?
Got the car together enough to wrap some donuts in the snow and finally warm it up and try it out. Couple issues right away, I’ve got to bum injectors ( which is too bad these were supposed to only have 160 000km on them but they had sat a while)
Issue two and the one that has me puzzled. After burning around for 10 minutes I lost throttle.
-percent on scanner still read good
-no faults showing for app 1 or 2
-using scanner to manual control idle still would not work
- when touching throttle the DIC would flash engine power reduced ( checked through everything I could and found no derate according to scanner.
- doubled checked tune to make sure stuff is off and all looks good
- clearing codes wouldn’t help
The fix was a simple shut off and restart.
Still scratching my head on what the cause was. MAF isnt installed because intake pipes are t on yet but I have it disabled in the tune. Also was thinking maybe under boost was causing it? but I’m sure have the code disabled. I have commanded boost just maxed out not sure if thats correct for fixed turbo. But I’ll get into researching that. Any thoughts feel free to share. Thank you
Issue two and the one that has me puzzled. After burning around for 10 minutes I lost throttle.
-percent on scanner still read good
-no faults showing for app 1 or 2
-using scanner to manual control idle still would not work
- when touching throttle the DIC would flash engine power reduced ( checked through everything I could and found no derate according to scanner.
- doubled checked tune to make sure stuff is off and all looks good
- clearing codes wouldn’t help
The fix was a simple shut off and restart.
Still scratching my head on what the cause was. MAF isnt installed because intake pipes are t on yet but I have it disabled in the tune. Also was thinking maybe under boost was causing it? but I’m sure have the code disabled. I have commanded boost just maxed out not sure if thats correct for fixed turbo. But I’ll get into researching that. Any thoughts feel free to share. Thank you
Jake, gotta hand it to you.....you did a nice job!
Thank you i appreciate that very much
Running into an issue with fuel system. So after swapping top end over to LMM I haven’t really drove the car yet, only idled and spun around the yard. And it just doesn’t run right. Revving it up sounds a bit off and I watched some miss fires on the scanner along with much white smoke especially on first start up. It would kinda clear up but still hit up and miss when warm.
So I was certain it was the used injectors I found that were supposed to be good but sat for a few years un sealed.
I purchased another core motor this week, from a buddy and a local shop, was from their service truck. Had 180 000km on it. Ran perfect besides loosing oil pressure. Ok great I’ll use these injectors they should be ok for now.
Fast forward to today. Finished up the swap over. Still white smoke on idle. It doesn’t run as bad tho. Will smooth out and sound great for a few seconds then start hunting again and missing or whatever it is. Rev it up and sounds pretty good/smooth. BUT before I ran it too long I notice the return rails are getting very hot. And three injectors also are very very hot at the solenoid. Other injectors feel normal. The rail gets hot enough to almost burn your fingers. So what the heck.
Return rails are DHD
4 AN off both rails to a 4AN “T”
Then single 4AN up to the 6 AN “T”
The 6AN “T” connects to the CP3 and to the 5/16 factory return line to the tank.
I also have the rail relief connected to the back end of the drivers side return rail. But it has a race plug and I’ve also checked go leaks while running.
Then other thing I tried was removing the line to the relief and sticking it in a pail essentially acting as another free flowing return. Running like this still gets the rails hot.
So am I that unlucky that I got a few more bum injectors? Or am I missing something here?
I run out of time tonight on it but I’ll perform a return amount test when we are back form the city next week.
So I was certain it was the used injectors I found that were supposed to be good but sat for a few years un sealed.
I purchased another core motor this week, from a buddy and a local shop, was from their service truck. Had 180 000km on it. Ran perfect besides loosing oil pressure. Ok great I’ll use these injectors they should be ok for now.
Fast forward to today. Finished up the swap over. Still white smoke on idle. It doesn’t run as bad tho. Will smooth out and sound great for a few seconds then start hunting again and missing or whatever it is. Rev it up and sounds pretty good/smooth. BUT before I ran it too long I notice the return rails are getting very hot. And three injectors also are very very hot at the solenoid. Other injectors feel normal. The rail gets hot enough to almost burn your fingers. So what the heck.
Return rails are DHD
4 AN off both rails to a 4AN “T”
Then single 4AN up to the 6 AN “T”
The 6AN “T” connects to the CP3 and to the 5/16 factory return line to the tank.
I also have the rail relief connected to the back end of the drivers side return rail. But it has a race plug and I’ve also checked go leaks while running.
Then other thing I tried was removing the line to the relief and sticking it in a pail essentially acting as another free flowing return. Running like this still gets the rails hot.
So am I that unlucky that I got a few more bum injectors? Or am I missing something here?
I run out of time tonight on it but I’ll perform a return amount test when we are back form the city next week.
Did you change the ecm? I'm just spitballing but I'd say you've got an issue running regular solenoids on a setup that had piezo injectors
Yes ecm and wiring all changed over to Lmm.
Maybe I’m being paranoid, it does run better now with the current injectors. Quick google tells me return fuel temp does run around 100 degrees. Maybe it’s just something I never payed attention to before?
You know I've never checked myself but I know we have a fuel cooler on these trucks for a reason. I wouldn't be surprised if the fuel wasn't over a 100° being returned. I know one of our members did some experiments a long time ago with better fuel coolers. If I remember correctly with a thermal camera they said the fuel in the diesel tank was getting heated from the hot return fuel.
Found issue, for some reason rail pressure is maxing out at idle. Showing 29000 psi and commanding 5800. I’ll swap the regulator when we get back from our trip to Edmonton. Thankful I found it before we left our I wouldn’t have been able to relax lol.