Well this is a good sign. Need to go buy a license as I'm out of ECN license
Bought a Cruze
- Thread starter malibu795
- Start date
Well filled it up, put ~30 miles on it...
got new rainx wipers on it,
Found oil leak, and cooper sparkles by the expansion tank.
..
Crank case is under vacuum at idle. Enough that you pull the dipstick or oil fill cap while running and idle changes
Also some grey RTV.. by the valve cover..
3rd synchro is basically gone... But think that has more to do with going from 4th to 5th, missing 5th and getting 3rd again.
At a stop, engage clutch with trans in neutral then disengage clutch shift to 3rd it grinds
got new rainx wipers on it,
Found oil leak, and cooper sparkles by the expansion tank.
..Crank case is under vacuum at idle. Enough that you pull the dipstick or oil fill cap while running and idle changes
Also some grey RTV.. by the valve cover..
3rd synchro is basically gone... But think that has more to do with going from 4th to 5th, missing 5th and getting 3rd again.
At a stop, engage clutch with trans in neutral then disengage clutch shift to 3rd it grinds
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That vacuum at idle is normal, as is the odd idle with dipstick out or cap off.
RTV at the two points of valve cover that are over the front cover/head crease there are normal.
Oil leak possibly from trans? That doesnt look like oil, esp its location.
RTV at the two points of valve cover that are over the front cover/head crease there are normal.
Oil leak possibly from trans? That doesnt look like oil, esp its location.
Well break the vacuum seal or allow additional air in behind the throttle, it will change idle quality.
I'll get it some what cleaned up, so we can figure out what color the fluid is
I'll get it some what cleaned up, so we can figure out what color the fluid is
Pull the tune first and see if you got any tables mapped out first. Won't cost a license to see the tune. Just to load it in
You thinking head gasket leak with the copper powder?Well filled it up, put ~30 miles on it...
got new rainx wipers on it,
Found oil leak, and cooper sparkles by the expansion tank.
Crank case is under vacuum at idle. Enough that you pull the dipstick or oil fill cap while running and idle changes
Also some grey RTV.. by the valve cover..
3rd synchro is basically gone... But think that has more to do with going from 4th to 5th, missing 5th and getting 3rd again.
At a stop, engage clutch with trans in neutral then disengage clutch shift to 3rd it grinds
Already down loaded the stock time and saved it...
Either they fixed it and did a horrible job at flushing the system or it just happened and they put it in as a bandaid and dumped the car before it got worse
Pretty sure they used this
Swung by the dealer I bought the car from.. had them printed out the work history they did.
Oil and filter change
Replaced wipers
Engine air filter
Cabin filter
fuel filter
Machined the rotors on the front and put new pads on.
Found a bunch of oil leaking from the valve cover and whistling, so,they replaced said valve cover.
Battery failed replaced it.
Had a bunch of codes..
P0106, P015B, P0171, P0455, P0507, P1101, P2270, U100:71, U0121
Currently no code
Oil and filter change
Replaced wipers
Engine air filter
Cabin filter
fuel filter
Machined the rotors on the front and put new pads on.
Found a bunch of oil leaking from the valve cover and whistling, so,they replaced said valve cover.
Battery failed replaced it.
Had a bunch of codes..
P0106, P015B, P0171, P0455, P0507, P1101, P2270, U100:71, U0121
Currently no code
But does it Cruze?
They saved you some $$$. CruzeKit and Tstat and you're good.
Still on first tank, which has decent amount of idle time and mixed driving on it, dic says 32-33mpg, set one of the 2 trip selection to just running 73-75mph to work and it's claiming 35-36mpg..
@TheBac saw one cheap diy, for it, pull intake run a #10-3/4" self tap in to the PCV hole, I'll probably clean up the casting flash on the intake as well. And dump everything into the turbo inlet for now
ZZP has the t-stat upgrade in stock, with 180° t-stat
ZZP 1.4T Aluminum Thermostat Assembly
Upgrade your 1.4T's cooling system with the redesigned ZZPerformance aluminum thermostat housing and mechanical thermostat. The 1.4T engine is known for the cheap plastic cooling components GM used from the factory, which commonly crack, leak, and contribute to inconsistent cooling performance...
zzperformance.com
also ordered a set of Lisle #26280 E-torx. Should be here tomorrow
Plugging the hole in the intake is part of it, but not all of it. Still have to reroute the pcv system and install a check valve.
I personally would run a 15lb cap with that tstat.
Reroute where/why?
OEM spec it dumps into the turbo inlet when the intake manifold is under boost. I'm just eliminating it getting sucked behind the throttle blade...
Good idea to add a catch can though.
Found the part number... AC Delco 15075117
And flush the cooling system
Well got the thermostat and housing swapped,, PCV in the intake plugged, ported the intake runners while I waited for the car too cool off.
Had to replace a radiator hose.. got up to 194° but coolant doesn't want to push through the radiator in hose..but temp isn't running away like it's over heating..
I don't have any vac on the crankcase.. found this..
Source: https://youtube.com/shorts/myJjm3mJQuM?si=aaEF6U6oVCdbJrp9
Hook a shop vac to the breather port and there's definitely "air flow" as the shop vac will put a vacuum on the crank case.
Gues I pull the intake and valve cover off too make sure passages aren't restricted with gunk
A lot of oil on the hot charge pipe as well.
Edit went for a drive, ECT holds 200° +/-5° in 45° ambient...
Not sure what to make of the pressurized case
Had to replace a radiator hose.. got up to 194° but coolant doesn't want to push through the radiator in hose..but temp isn't running away like it's over heating..
I don't have any vac on the crankcase.. found this..
Hook a shop vac to the breather port and there's definitely "air flow" as the shop vac will put a vacuum on the crank case.
Gues I pull the intake and valve cover off too make sure passages aren't restricted with gunk
A lot of oil on the hot charge pipe as well.
Edit went for a drive, ECT holds 200° +/-5° in 45° ambient...
Not sure what to make of the pressurized case
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Looks like your intakes check valve 'went away' and you need a new intake... Without that check valve, you could blow out gaskets and seals all over the place under boost ...Well got the thermostat and housing swapped,, PCV in the intake plugged, ported the intake runners while I waited for the car too cool off.
Had to replace a radiator hose.. got up to 194° but coolant doesn't want to push through the radiator in hose..but temp isn't running away like it's over heating..
I don't have any vac on the crankcase.. found this..
Source: https://youtube.com/shorts/myJjm3mJQuM?si=aaEF6U6oVCdbJrp9
Hook a shop vac to the breather port and there's definitely "air flow" as the shop vac will put a vacuum on the crank case.
Gues I pull the intake and valve cover off too make sure passages aren't restricted with gunk
A lot of oil on the hot charge pipe as well.
Edit went for a drive, ECT holds 200° +/-5° in 45° ambient...
Not sure what to make of the pressurized case
You've got to have a check valve in the system, thats why it gets moved externally with the kit so it can be serviced. Otherwise the turbo is going to pressurize the system and, as Coug said, you're going to blow out seals very quickly.
...or dont believe us.
...or dont believe us.
Please explain why crank case pressure at idle, with no boost, wants to go out the oil fill Cap vs the breather hole, which it would normally be sucked through via intake vacuum...
I'd imagine that even at idle, the turbo can create slightly above ambient pressure. The check valve that is missing in your first pic is CRUCIAL. You need a new intake, or that check valve in another location if possible. To be fair, that check valve in that location is a shit design...
For your viewing pleasure:
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oe-nIS3pqA
For your viewing pleasure:
At idle mine be pulled a vacuum on the crankcase, I mentioned that in the first few posts
Yes the OEM check valve missing and similar to the fix here where you JB weld a push plastic tack in the hole.. and also recommend as a second option
I jb welded a self tap #10 sheet metal screw with a nylon washer. That picture is uploaded already. Here it is again.
What that does NOT explain is why the blow by gas wants to go out the oil fill cap vs the PCV hole that I have disconnected in the video, which I have screenshot and circled.
If any of the case seals blowout, it will not be directly from boost pressure coming from the intake.
Current routing of the PCV is to the turbo inlet as the is OEM functional routing when the intake is pressurized with boost.
Yes the OEM check valve missing and similar to the fix here where you JB weld a push plastic tack in the hole.. and also recommend as a second option
V3.4+ GM 1.4L Turbo PCV Fix/Upgrade Kit
V3.4+ PCV Fix Kit This fix kit addresses the intake manifold check valve failure on the GM 1.4L Turbo LUV/LUJ and eliminates the need to replace your intake manifold. This kit has been improved and proven since 2019 and uses a number of custom designed fittings, check valves, and hardware.
cruzekits.com
I jb welded a self tap #10 sheet metal screw with a nylon washer. That picture is uploaded already. Here it is again.
What that does NOT explain is why the blow by gas wants to go out the oil fill cap vs the PCV hole that I have disconnected in the video, which I have screenshot and circled.
If any of the case seals blowout, it will not be directly from boost pressure coming from the intake.
Current routing of the PCV is to the turbo inlet as the is OEM functional routing when the intake is pressurized with boost.