I was referring to the cortec product for brush application, I apply Fluid Film with compressed air like you said
Bought a Sierra as Donortruck - now he stay
- Thread starter Phoenix-LH
- Start date
Oh i didn't missunderstand. I noticed that cortec is to apply by brush. In the past i had always used underbodyprotection to apply by brush. It would be the first time where i use it with compressed air. The Fluid and Permafilm was purchased a while ago. To finish the truck need longer than expected.
We used a stoneprotection in the wheelcases. We apply also by compressed air but befor installation. Come out very nice. Also the bedliner was easy to apply by compressed air. But both was thick material.
You see i am a bit unsure with this this product.
We spent a lot of money, time and work on these trucks. Dont want destroy this just by using a wrong underbodyprotection.
Weeks have passed, and we're still working on the Chevy. We originally wanted to have a professional company do the underbody protection and cavity sealing. But they raised their prices significantly, so we're doing it ourselves.
The Sierra had to be used as a "test vehicle" first. It's much easier to do this work at this stage of the build than when everything is completely installed. Fluid Film is new for us. I have also checked Cortec VPCI 368 -> Corpac Produkte 1 and Corpec Produkte 2 Its avialable here but not in usual use as underbodyprotection in vehicles. It should be work in same wise like the Hodt-Products.
The first round of Fluidfilm A as a cavity sealant and Primer on the frame is complete. Now the whole thing needs to rest for at least 24 hours. We'll continue next week with Fluid Film AR in the cavities as next level protection and Permafilm on the frame. Before I use Permafilm, however, I'll compare it with Cortec again. I don't want to have to redo the job so quickly because the underbody protection didn't last.
Once everything is together, like on the Chevy, the covering of sensible electronic and other parts alone took over 2 hours in our case.
The Sierra had to be used as a "test vehicle" first. It's much easier to do this work at this stage of the build than when everything is completely installed. Fluid Film is new for us. I have also checked Cortec VPCI 368 -> Corpac Produkte 1 and Corpec Produkte 2 Its avialable here but not in usual use as underbodyprotection in vehicles. It should be work in same wise like the Hodt-Products.
The first round of Fluidfilm A as a cavity sealant and Primer on the frame is complete. Now the whole thing needs to rest for at least 24 hours. We'll continue next week with Fluid Film AR in the cavities as next level protection and Permafilm on the frame. Before I use Permafilm, however, I'll compare it with Cortec again. I don't want to have to redo the job so quickly because the underbody protection didn't last.
Once everything is together, like on the Chevy, the covering of sensible electronic and other parts alone took over 2 hours in our case.
Fluid film is made out of linseed oil. You can just use it instead of buying fluid film.
It's Lanolin based, not from plants
I have already Fluidfilm in use. Some use Fluidfilm A here on their leafsprings every year renewing it.
I am not sure if linseed oil will have the same characteristics. At least it will not harm for someone who want try it.
For us Fluidfilm ist just one component of the cavety- and underbodyprotection.
I am not sure if linseed oil will have the same characteristics. At least it will not harm for someone who want try it.
For us Fluidfilm ist just one component of the cavety- and underbodyprotection.
Google linseed oil and metal protection brother. I shared a shop with a blacksmith, I learned a ton from him.
Linseed oil paint as corrosion and rust protection for metal
Linseed oil paint as corrosion and rust protection for metal
reine-leinoelfarben.de
Now due the pressure of Trump. It's been decided 15% additional tax on US Goods. This mean we will only be doing a stock restoration with no engine modifications or transmission upgrades.
This saves is 20000 + 3000 Euro.
The Truck will run well with "only" 360 HP.
For us this action simply means a loss of luxery.
I feel sorry for all those who will suffer financial hardship as a result.
Edit: today is 15% tax for export of all goods from EU to USA until today no add tax on import goods from USA. How long this stay and if the export tax not involve our import is today not for sure.
About warranty doesn't we want purchase before we start installation. We learned we need more time as warranty last before we finished a project. The engine from the Chevy is rebuild 2022 and had 1 year warranty. Never run since rebuild and the warranty is gone...
We will see what future will bring us for surprises.
This saves is 20000 + 3000 Euro.
The Truck will run well with "only" 360 HP.
For us this action simply means a loss of luxery.
I feel sorry for all those who will suffer financial hardship as a result.
Edit: today is 15% tax for export of all goods from EU to USA until today no add tax on import goods from USA. How long this stay and if the export tax not involve our import is today not for sure.
About warranty doesn't we want purchase before we start installation. We learned we need more time as warranty last before we finished a project. The engine from the Chevy is rebuild 2022 and had 1 year warranty. Never run since rebuild and the warranty is gone...
We will see what future will bring us for surprises.
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A mild tune will get you more than just "360" hp and still be reliable. FYI.
We know this, there are some things we had planned but first will be new injectors, the lift pump and the rubbing TC Problem the only things we will definitely implement.
All other is dependend how the costs rise up.
We don't need more HP as he have already enough for our use. It's not necessary, but it's possible and that alone makes it irresistible. ?
It's the human nature always want more...
The chevy got his roadregistration include the trailer. we rest a bit and wanted start on the Sierra
and than I break my elbow this morning falling on an icy sidewalk.
Great, I've hit the jackpot. At least six weeks before I can properly grip anything again.
Next week will be surgery after this it should be soon possible to move again but without load on it.
For now i have a castrail bent the arm before my stomach.
Fortunately the left arm. I am righthanded.
Old age said its easier to brake bones. Reaching 62 seems to proove that.
the trailer is not finished, will got new paint, correct markings and a new cover all non camo to fit with the truck
and than I break my elbow this morning falling on an icy sidewalk.
Great, I've hit the jackpot. At least six weeks before I can properly grip anything again.
Next week will be surgery after this it should be soon possible to move again but without load on it.
For now i have a castrail bent the arm before my stomach.
Fortunately the left arm. I am righthanded.
Old age said its easier to brake bones. Reaching 62 seems to proove that.
the trailer is not finished, will got new paint, correct markings and a new cover all non camo to fit with the truck
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We needed to rearrange the shop to start on the Cab.
From the storage place in front of the chassis
to the working area where the horsetrailer just parked
We checked the cab on needed metalshets
Like expected driversite cab corner
passengersite a little bit better, but we will do both with new corners
someone was on the driversite floor as the insulation is missing
passengersite complete
its my first 15+ years vehicle where i got out the plastic cover in the doors in one piece
Does someone know what this is for a sticker. It is on both doorpanels.
From the storage place in front of the chassis
to the working area where the horsetrailer just parked
We checked the cab on needed metalshets
Like expected driversite cab corner
passengersite a little bit better, but we will do both with new corners
someone was on the driversite floor as the insulation is missing
passengersite complete
its my first 15+ years vehicle where i got out the plastic cover in the doors in one piece
Does someone know what this is for a sticker. It is on both doorpanels.
Not an expert here, but I purchased a truck 10yrs ago and the dealer had placed a bunch of « security » labels all over the truck. The intent was if the truck was stolen and parted out, then they could « track » it and one would get their truck/parts back.
I tried calling the number, as expected it’s out of service.
I tried calling the number, as expected it’s out of service.
Thanks for info and testing the number.
I didnt try to remove the sticker but as we will repaint the truck... if it dont gone easy is there no problem to use force on it
until now we only found this 2.
Yes there were a few companies that put stickers like that on the car so that if it was stolen law enforcement could track the parts. Some of them had special adhesive with a UV Die in that would leave a trace behind with the serial number incase they were peeled off.
As mentioned, it's just like any decal, usually heat them up and remove as much as you can. On the adhesive you can use a rubber erase that mounts on a drill or a die grinder. These are the 2 common styles we use hear.
I don't know if you have similar chemicals available in European market but we have a product called Adhesive remover. It helps take off the sticky residue that is left over. You put some on a rag and rub it over the left over adhesive. The chemical softens it up and as you rub over it the rag picks it up. The chemical won't harm the paint finish. For me, the 3M product seems to work the best.
As mentioned, it's just like any decal, usually heat them up and remove as much as you can. On the adhesive you can use a rubber erase that mounts on a drill or a die grinder. These are the 2 common styles we use hear.
I don't know if you have similar chemicals available in European market but we have a product called Adhesive remover. It helps take off the sticky residue that is left over. You put some on a rag and rub it over the left over adhesive. The chemical softens it up and as you rub over it the rag picks it up. The chemical won't harm the paint finish. For me, the 3M product seems to work the best.
So start removing floormates and insulation
It is really time to act now
Passengerside also had rust under the insulation
Found a hole on the drive-site door-sill
check by cam said - you will renew me or you will have soon fun again with rustdefense
the doorsills from my 40 years old chevy were in better shape than this
On my shopping list are now two door sills and cabcorners.
Will wait until i have cleaned the whole cab. Maybe i find more...
Door seems to be solid but i will also take a look by cam.
It is really time to act now
Passengerside also had rust under the insulation
Found a hole on the drive-site door-sill
check by cam said - you will renew me or you will have soon fun again with rustdefense
the doorsills from my 40 years old chevy were in better shape than this
On my shopping list are now two door sills and cabcorners.
Will wait until i have cleaned the whole cab. Maybe i find more...
Door seems to be solid but i will also take a look by cam.
Starting to work on the cab again:
We thought before maybe we can let the cab inside untouched..... we changed our mind after finding anywhere minor rust. You can see this spots on the pictures.
So we started to disambling the cab complete.
Like all newer vehicles is all hold be plastic clamps... i love my squarebody - no plastic clamp just solid scews and bolts
After struggling to find all the clamps hidden behind does we finally loosen the headliner.
We found under it a cable which seems to be original but stick with a tape on the headliner without connect to anything. Do anyone know what this is? Comes from the harness which go the third Brakelight in the rear Top of the cap
it end up at the mirror position in front of the headliner
We will give our Trailer M1102 in June/July to a car-upholstery to got a new Canvas Cover. We will also give the headliner and the seats to them to got leather for the seats and a fitting cover for the headliner. Dependent of course of their quote. The quote on the Canvas Cover for the Trailer is on 1700 Euro. So the headliner and the seats will not be less than 3000 Euro include Material of course.
if the windows, front and rear as well disambled will the cab be turned on the back to reach the area under the cab for derust.
Fortunately the damage from the cocked batt is not that deep, no holes.
a lot of rust pits, not deep but necessary to remove
the footspace passenger and drive site need a lot of more care to prevent rust in the future
We thought before maybe we can let the cab inside untouched..... we changed our mind after finding anywhere minor rust. You can see this spots on the pictures.
So we started to disambling the cab complete.
Like all newer vehicles is all hold be plastic clamps... i love my squarebody - no plastic clamp just solid scews and bolts
After struggling to find all the clamps hidden behind does we finally loosen the headliner.
We found under it a cable which seems to be original but stick with a tape on the headliner without connect to anything. Do anyone know what this is? Comes from the harness which go the third Brakelight in the rear Top of the cap
it end up at the mirror position in front of the headliner
We will give our Trailer M1102 in June/July to a car-upholstery to got a new Canvas Cover. We will also give the headliner and the seats to them to got leather for the seats and a fitting cover for the headliner. Dependent of course of their quote. The quote on the Canvas Cover for the Trailer is on 1700 Euro. So the headliner and the seats will not be less than 3000 Euro include Material of course.
if the windows, front and rear as well disambled will the cab be turned on the back to reach the area under the cab for derust.
Fortunately the damage from the cocked batt is not that deep, no holes.
a lot of rust pits, not deep but necessary to remove
the footspace passenger and drive site need a lot of more care to prevent rust in the future
That wire on the headliner is probably for the rearview mirror. The higher trim levels have the temperature and a compass in the rearview mirror. If all the wires are present, you might be able to upgrade yours by getting the rearview mirror and adding the temperature sensor at the front of the truck.
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