Torsion bars not lowering vehicle?

knagel

weakest link finder
Jun 4, 2007
231
4
18
Central, Iowa
2006 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 Regular cab long box. Truck only has 32,000 miles. We have owned the truck since like 2008 with like 23,000 miles and bought it from a dealer and was their personal truck. We just basically sled pulled with it and then sits in the garage. While sled pulling we ran with no torsion key bolts installed to have the front end as low as it will go. During storage it sat with them removed too. We are just getting the truck ready to do a local pull here in a week and the front end seems high? I removed the Key bolt stops to just let the torsion bars hang in the rear and lowered the truck on the hoist and the front end would go down no problem (nothing binding keeping it from going lower). No shock bind, no A arm bind. Installed the key bolt stops again and it is right at the same level again.

One thing I did notice is that when using the torsion bar tool to compress to get the bolt stop out it seemed like it took A LOT of pressure to move the bar. Like so much pressure I wouldn't want to just jack the truck up and wrench the bolt tighter to lift it up for fear of breaking the bolt or something else. I know on my plow truck when I go to put the plow on in the winter I just jack up each side frame and zip em up with the impact no problem. This would NOT be the case here on this truck. Even if I used the impact while the truck was on the hoist its like the bars are at their limit and the key might have moved 1/8" off the stop when trying to tighten the bolts.

I guess my question is, has anyone ran across this that a truck won't raise or lower with the torsion bars? I can't even get the truck to lower enough to make the CV shafts level. This is a completely stock truck with no suspension lift or modifications. Can a key or torsion bar move a cog? Can a torsion bar get "stiffer" with no use? Just seems weird to me how hard it is to even try to screw the bar up. The CV angles aren't horrible but could be better.

Let me know your thoughts. I would appreciate it!

I was thinking about just taking the bars out to inspect but it really doesn't look like they have moved. I mean the bars look wedged or rotated maybe just a bit in the front lower A arm but I think that may be normal? At the key they look, from what I can tell, fine.

Thanks,

Kevin
 

TheBac

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Apr 19, 2008
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Torsion bars cant rotate in the lower control arms. They have a square end on that side.
Are you able to get the adjustment bolts out? If you can, maybe use some anti-seize or other lubricant on them?
Sure sounds like theres something binding in other parts of the suspension somewhere.
 

jlawles2

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2010
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Danbury, TX
Is it possible you are on the bump stops in the front?

Double check that nothing is in the bump stop area or the torsion bar bolt bar. Also verify that the torsion bar bolt bar is in the proper orientation as I think it's recessed on the ends so it sits down into the holes in the cross bar.
 

knagel

weakest link finder
Jun 4, 2007
231
4
18
Central, Iowa
1st pic sittimg on the ground measurement. 2nd raised on the lift. Last 2 pics ate sitting on the ground. You can see the angles and that there are no bump stops installed. This is all with the bolts removed. Like i said this truck only has 32,000 miles on it so no rust issues. It has been parked with no bolts installed for a number of years.

I had the key/ bolt holders completely out and lower the vehicle on the hoist and the suspension went down with no issue. Shocks are not the issue either
 

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2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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Looks to me like the torsion bar or key got reindexed. Basically taken apart and rotated before putting back together
 

knagel

weakest link finder
Jun 4, 2007
231
4
18
Central, Iowa
We have been the owner of this truck for 15 plus years and have been the only ones to do work on it. We have never had the torsion bars out. That is what has me baffled. Because i would think the same thing. I would also think if you indexed stock keys wrong the indexing would be so drastic you would have issues putting back together wouldnt you?
 

2004LB7

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I don't have my trucks in front of me so I can't verify, but found this on the Internet. Notice the difference in rotation of the torsion bar between yours and the other one from the Web? Just wondering if it's possible

IMG_4440.jpeg

4294E75E-1A78-4E4A-BB58-16D29D76B93C.jpeg
 

jlawles2

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2010
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Danbury, TX
Orientation of the bar in the LCA should not make a difference as long as the key end is similar.

What I do see is what appears to be a new set of tie rod ends. Is it possible that your tie rod ends are some how limiting the travel? They also appear to be upside down. For some reason I thought the bolt went on the bottom thus it should be almost flat.

One other thing would be the torsion bar that runs between the LCA's. Double check it's not binding on something limiting travel.
 

JoshH

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Feb 14, 2007
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I'm not sure what has changed or why this is just now a problem for you, but I can say that those do not look like stock torsion bar keys to me.
 

2004LB7

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I'm not sure what has changed or why this is just now a problem for you, but I can say that those do not look like stock torsion bar keys to me.
Took a quick look at mine and those keys sure look different

IMG_20250711_073123-01~01.jpg

IMG_20250711_073103-01~01.jpg

And my stock front suspension
IMG_20250711_073224-01.jpeg
 

knagel

weakest link finder
Jun 4, 2007
231
4
18
Central, Iowa
Whats the factory key number? I have the DS out. Should you be able to raise snd lower the control arm assembly fairly easy? Like with out much effort? Mine moves but u have to raise pretty hard on it. I have stabilizer rod disconnected from the truck and the tie rod ends removed from the spindle. Removed the CV nut to make sure there was no bind there and that had half inch movement in.

Do you think my LCA bushings r seized a bit and should remove the bolt and lube with antiseize?
 

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2004LB7

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Control arms are always pretty stiff or difficult to move by hand. I never tried greasing them as I didn't want to shorten the life of the rubber. Silicone should work well through. But really shouldn't be needed.
 

knagel

weakest link finder
Jun 4, 2007
231
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18
Central, Iowa
That casting number doesnt mean anything? I just tried to re-clock the key and there is no possible way. It has to be where its at
 

knagel

weakest link finder
Jun 4, 2007
231
4
18
Central, Iowa
I will report back. I have a junk yard looking dor some stock ones. Everyone i know who has done lifts checked their factory ones…..