LB7 Fuel System Issues - Wagers?

kidturbo

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Jul 21, 2010
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Ok so my buddy picks up a FB special, 03 dually, mostly stock besides a lift, with 280k miles down in FL last week. Then 2 days later, hooks up to his 5th wheel camper and heads to Ohio. Truck did great, until about the I95/I26 split in SC when it limped for Low Fuel Pressure. I've never been able to get an LB7 to limp on FP, but he's proved me wrong. lol..

Truck came with an Edge of same era, so he was able to at least read and clear the codes. I told him to monitor the FP, and change filter if it persisted. Never heard anything more, until next day when I get a call that truck made it home, but when he went out next morning, wouldn't start.. Pumped the primer, fires right up, dies in under 60.. I ask, did ya change filter? Nope, limped it on home he said. Popped low pressure a couple more time in mountains, but towed 12k lbs no problems. Humm.. Ok, lets grab a filter and toss it on.

While installing the filter I noticed someone had installed worm clamps on the filter head, and electrical taped all the fuel line they could reach. Troubling.. As anyone who's owned a diesel for a few days knows electrical tape and diesel fuel don't mix. But they were obviously chasing some rabbit, and covered all the bases.. Even put a hose with a bolt in it over the vac test port.. I can tell this is gonna get interesting. So stick around..

I found an old LBZ filter head in the garage, only to soon learn those won't fit on the LB7. So he runs to town and grabs a filter head rebuild kit. We pop that on it, and problems solved. Seems the cold weather and a leaky head was allowing it to suck air. Lucky guess.. Truck fires up, idles fine. He say you drive it to the shop and see what ya think. Get out on the road, roll into it, and looks like any cranked up LB7 in the mirror. For about 2 seconds, then falls on it's face, but recovers when ya let out of it. So I grab the V2 and back out to log some data. As suspected, it's no where near command FP when boosted. Saw it hit 12k psi, then dropped off to about 3000..

Back at the shop I start inspecting the engine a little closer. Besides an air raid tube and filter not much to see. It's got new head Bolts, but not studs. Previous owner said heads were just redone. Also find it has a new looking FPR, along with worm clamps on every rubber fuel line. Which tells me, that somebody was chasing what they thought was and air leak. But they never rebuilt that head.. Was 100% Original. We had to slit the lines to get them off it. So who replaced all the clamps??

Last thing before calling it a day, I cranked the FP up and down with the V2 and logged some data. What I noticed is the regulator has virtually no control on the pressure, and she won't make 10k psi at idle. But it's also running above commanded at idle, and never drops when commanded down. Can't kill it by pulling the pressure either..

Screenshot 2024-12-10 020009.png

So before writing off the pump, figured I should check all the boxes and verify the return on injectors and that shinny regulator.. So was gonna hook a jug of fuel to the filter head and start there. And was gonna do a vac test since my ex-Dmax-tech buddy just happens to have the gauge kit. But when I popped the hose and bolt off the test port, there was fuel in it.. Hit the primmer, and fuel is leaking past that schrader valve. I said it was worth the wait... LOL

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While dive any deeper into this rolling fuel leak, anyone care to bet on findings??

I tried to tell my buddy that I know nothing about the LB7's. Then he quickly recalled how I needed one for testing the FUCM project.. To which I said, I have an Lb7 on the bench that runs perfectly fine, an requires no fuel.. Didn't work. He said you have keys to the shop, send me the bill, and quickly left town.. Setting here recalling why I never cared for the Lb7' looking at this graph from FPR testing. I was given a couple hints from my tech buddy on reading FPR data on these to determine cause. But with the fuel leaks I've found so far, and way regulator is acting, I'm gonna keep an open mind on this one until I hook a jug directly to the CP3...
 

PureHybrid

Isuzu Shakes IT
Feb 15, 2012
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Junk FPR would be likely, plenty of knock offs out there even if it's "new". If it won't die when unplugging the rail sensor I'd say the regulator is stuck
 

2004LB7

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Wasn't there a possibility of swapping the connectors on the FPR with something else? ECT? I thought it would do something similar if the connectors where swapped
 

kidturbo

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Jul 21, 2010
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Regulators up 3 - nothing :D

Woke up and there was an inch of snow outside. And I didn't find a fuel pressure check valve stem in my junk to replace that leaking one. So rather than go build a fire in the shop, lets spend an hour reviewing the data. Heading to PRI tomorrow, so not likely gonna get any more attention before Sunday.. But I like where you're all pointing..

First up, after start and couple minutes idle, spotted what I'm told could be an injector return concern pattern in the FP actual, and the regulator mA. But it subsides after 20 seconds.. Previous owner also said "ignore the slight haze every once and a while at highway speeds, it's done it for a long time..." Ok, did ya ever put injectors in it would been my next question. But moving on, it's gonna haze with 5k rail and 1700us pulses..

Screenshot 2024-12-11 151025.png



When I commanded it to 20mpa, and then 0, it never responded over 25 seconds. ECM told reg to move, yet never drops below 6000psi. So guessing if I pull the rail pressure sensor will get same results.

Screenshot 2024-12-11 151704.png


Last up, where I commanded to max rail at idle, the FPR does respond slightly over time. Maxing out at 10k. So don't feel it's wiring harness related. But I've personally never seen a slide stick this hard. Usually they will have an "spot" that will hang up when warm and spring can't overcome. Once stuck FPR open on a buddies LMM by commanding it to zero with engine off too many times.. Truck wouldn't start the next morning until he smacked it with a screwdriver and hammer..

Screenshot 2024-12-11 152727.png
 

2004LB7

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I say, hook the regulator up to the injector circuit and have the FICM pound away at it until it good and loose ?
 

Chevy1925

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Oct 21, 2009
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Done a bottle test yet? When the fprv blows on a lb7, it blows open extremely easy after that. Probably still a regulator but I’d run a bottle test to see if the fprv is letting any fuel by, check the oil to make sure we dont have fuel in the oil, ifnit has no lift pump - do the vacuum test on the fuel supply making sure its between 2-3 inhg or less at idle. You can do a total fuel return rate test and a cp3 return rate test to then differentiate what the injectors are doing for return but balance rate and main injection rate should indicate a high return rate. At the rail pressure you are seeing drop, you should see a significant difference on main injection rate from the 10mm3 i usually see on healthy injectors
 

kidturbo

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Jul 21, 2010
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Okay it's been 60 days, since rebuilding the filter head and changing some hoses and clamps on the engine. Truck still running, won't hold 10k psi, but has been reliably running around town locally. Never had time to do the bottle test, but yesterday I did take it 100 mile drive to use my GM tech buddies VAC gauge. Soon as I pulled out to roll his way, noticed dash was dead again.. Couple restarts, nothing, guessing the radio or chime module got that jacked up..

A quick FYI to all: The Duramax Low Fuel Level light, still works even if your IC craps out due to CANbus issues.. :)

So drive it an hour and half to my buddies with EFI up for gauges, where we hook up the VAC gauge, and sure enough she's pulling 5" at idle and exceeding 10" at WOT. He say "She's got a restriction in system..." So we go digging, and sure enough, hose is collapsed at the primary location to find it. He shows me the 10 minute $2 fix, and back out on the road we go..

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Same Shit Different Drive.
Still pulling over 10" at WOT, but was certainly lower at idle. We pull the main feed line off again at the quick connector, and blow air back into the tank, bubble bubble, but no red rags flew out the fill tube.. She still won't make requested on the rail... Even pulled the head apart again and check the flapper valves possible restrictions. However while driving it back home, with vac gauge still hanging out the window, I noticed it was bouncing between 7-10" at WOT now rather than exceeding and holding 11-12" as earlier.. Something changed, but she's still sucking for fuel..

Before I headed home, we concluded it's likely still has a restriction in or at the tank. And likely the pump is hurt from being restricted for the last 100k. Next up, bottle test and verify the pressure relief valve ain't the culprit. Choke off the pump return and measure all 8 sticks on the flow back. My money is still on the pump. She's says 288k on the working part of the dash, and besides a new reg, that pump is original..
 

Chevy1925

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You arent going to find much of an issue on the pressure side to solve the low rail pressure till you fix that vacuum restriction. I’d be willing to bet the cp3 will come back to life.

Check fuel hose between the ficm and fuel filter head or replace it. I’d also check the hose that feeds the cp3. If no fix, I’d drop the tank.

Really, you should pressurize the fuel system and see if the vacuum restriction goes away.
 

kidturbo

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You arent going to find much of an issue on the pressure side to solve the low rail pressure till you fix that vacuum restriction. I’d be willing to bet the cp3 will come back to life.

Check fuel hose between the ficm and fuel filter head or replace it. I’d also check the hose that feeds the cp3. If no fix, I’d drop the tank.

Really, you should pressurize the fuel system and see if the vacuum restriction goes away.
100%
I'm torn. A good lift pump, straight-lined into the CP3 would remove all possibilities besides the tank, and last 3 foot. Or do we pop the bed off real quick, dust the top off, and yank the guts out of it... Someone spent a bunch more time than I searching, so would like to solve it old school just because..

My tech buddy dove back into the filter head last night because he'd found dead bugs in there before restricting the check flap. Similar vac readings he said. We previously replaced the hose between head and FICM. Leaving the hard line to the CP3 as last rubber joint on the engine..

When I went out to move it today, after a jump, it fired up and dash working again.. Then as the Vac gauge pulled down to about 4, it died.. Had to pump the primer, took back off. So it wasn't sucking air at the schrader valve as previously thought. Gauge has that hole covered for the moment..
 

2004LB7

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Since you already cut the not so quick connect fittings off on the driver side for the fuel lines. Put some hose lines on them and put it into a bucket of fuel. Then test it. That will eliminate the tank side and associated lines and tell you if it's still at the engine or down by the tank.

I recall some of those rubber lines down by the cooler and tank can pinch shut and do as you described