Makes perfect sense. After thinking about it too, I figured things would be more than just a little off for it to dump that amount of fuel in that short time.
Head gasket build
- Thread starter lb7resto
- Start date
Finally been getting back into this over the past couple of weeks, I spent probably 3 weeks just dreading it. I drained the crankcase and had about 2 gallons extra volume in there.
I'm hoping to avoid pulling the fan, PS, A/C and alternator brackets off the front. I tried pulling vacuum last night on the fuel return as a whole system. Looking for a sanity check on my test method.
I pulled the rubber hose from the CP3 and hooked up the vacuum pump there, I blocked off the fuel return to the tank, which just leaves the fuel return coming from each head, and the fuel pressure relief valve. My assumption is that the relief valve would need 25k psi vacuum so it should be closed. When I started hand pumping the vacuum a negligible amount of diesel sputtered into the vacuum line, but otherwise it was like I wasn't even connected to anything, just fully open air breathing.
If you guys think this is a smoking gun that the issue is my fuel return in the heads then I am going to go ahead and try to find some new bolts and washers for both sides injector to return rail. I'm also thinking that once I pull the valve covers I can use this same method with a little pressure to see where I'm leaking.
Thanks
I'm hoping to avoid pulling the fan, PS, A/C and alternator brackets off the front. I tried pulling vacuum last night on the fuel return as a whole system. Looking for a sanity check on my test method.
I pulled the rubber hose from the CP3 and hooked up the vacuum pump there, I blocked off the fuel return to the tank, which just leaves the fuel return coming from each head, and the fuel pressure relief valve. My assumption is that the relief valve would need 25k psi vacuum so it should be closed. When I started hand pumping the vacuum a negligible amount of diesel sputtered into the vacuum line, but otherwise it was like I wasn't even connected to anything, just fully open air breathing.
If you guys think this is a smoking gun that the issue is my fuel return in the heads then I am going to go ahead and try to find some new bolts and washers for both sides injector to return rail. I'm also thinking that once I pull the valve covers I can use this same method with a little pressure to see where I'm leaking.
Thanks
I got the upper valve covers off and pushed some fuel back through the return lines with a hand pump and all 4 return connections on the driver's side are leaking, but none appear to be leaking on the passenger side. Seems strange. I am 99% sure I torqued them down. I was being meticulous and thorough putting all of that back together because I was convinced with all those connections that something was going to leak... funny. I am going to go ahead and order new banjo bolts and seals/washers all around just to be sure.
I found that of you don't pre-rotate the injector in the clockwise direction as what would happen when torquing down the fuel lines, when installing the injectors and tightening the hold downs then the injector can twist just a little and stress the crush washer on the return line.
Also, if your crush washers are new don't be afraid to tighten them down more to stop the leak. Hard to say how much more it might take as it's somewhat based on experience and feel. But maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 turn more on the banjo bolts. My first few I followed it by the book but quickly found that those return line banjos seemed to take a little more torque then the spec says it should be. Felt like the the copper only just barely started to crush at spec torque. So I always want a little more and never had a leak from doing that
Everything is back together, but now a new problem as popped up. I am getting P0203 and P2149 (and sometimes P0202 and P0205). This wasn't happening when it was running before with the fuel leak. Just letting it idle it will happen between 10 minutes and 20 minutes of run time. Runs fine before it happens. I checked the resistance from the FICM connector to all the affected injectors and they are fine, and doesn't change when wiggling the pigtails. My current idea is that it seems unlikely there is some weird new issue going on with that pigtail or injector, and that I did find that my FICM, which had been sitting on a table outside under a carport, had the breather broken off and we have had a ton of nasty weather and humidity. Maybe something is wrong with my FICM?
So which pain in the ass course of action do you guys think is more likely to fix this? sending the FICM off or opening the valve cover again (to look for ???)
I'm starting to feel cursed.
So which pain in the ass course of action do you guys think is more likely to fix this? sending the FICM off or opening the valve cover again (to look for ???)
I'm starting to feel cursed.
Sounds like the nuts on the injectors for the harness connections are loose. Might want to pop the valve covers and double check them
Dang man, what a find! Been deep in my motor before and know how discouraging it can be. Good work!
Been a while. Truck has been doing good, thanks again to everyone here for helping me along.
Since I got it running I've been throwing money and sweat at steering parts, brakes, and axle seal that was completely broken apart and really gushing. Trying to make it nice and solid. Took it for an alignment today and the guy told me I needed new wheel bearings first, so 700 bucks worth of hubs and Bilstein 4600 are on their way now. It never ends! That's ok though gun to my head I'd answer that fixing things is my favorite hobby.
Can you guys tell me if there is a way to tell using a scan tool or something if my truck is running a tune? I am suspicious that the previous previous owner had it tuned, then the previous owner just pulled the old style tune monitor deal out of the overhead console, then the tune eventually blew the head gasket. The thing is much faster than I feel like it should be, and even though the exhaust looks stock it seems loud. Also the gas mileage on the wish-o-meter is 11 even though all I have done in it is grandpa it to town about once a week.
I am not opposed to putting some selectable tunes on it, but I don't want to be rolling around on some unknown suspect tune. How would you guys proceed?
Since I got it running I've been throwing money and sweat at steering parts, brakes, and axle seal that was completely broken apart and really gushing. Trying to make it nice and solid. Took it for an alignment today and the guy told me I needed new wheel bearings first, so 700 bucks worth of hubs and Bilstein 4600 are on their way now. It never ends! That's ok though gun to my head I'd answer that fixing things is my favorite hobby.
Can you guys tell me if there is a way to tell using a scan tool or something if my truck is running a tune? I am suspicious that the previous previous owner had it tuned, then the previous owner just pulled the old style tune monitor deal out of the overhead console, then the tune eventually blew the head gasket. The thing is much faster than I feel like it should be, and even though the exhaust looks stock it seems loud. Also the gas mileage on the wish-o-meter is 11 even though all I have done in it is grandpa it to town about once a week.
I am not opposed to putting some selectable tunes on it, but I don't want to be rolling around on some unknown suspect tune. How would you guys proceed?
Nah it's an autel diagnostic deal.
I just looked, 600 bucks is steep for the autocal. If I wanted to put an economy tune and a tow tune eventually would I need to buy one anyway?
Spring for the V2 or V3 if you want to do the tuning yourself. Autocal is linked to a tuners V2/3 and only they can provide the tunes.
X2 on the Flashscan v3. Yes it's a bit much up front but it gives you the option to do your own tunes, try some from the library here (heck I'll send you one too) plus it'll have two VIN licenses. Autocals are awesome in the tuners eye, makes them more money and locks in a client/ makes it harder for a customer to switch
On the Flashscan, does it do more than just upload tunes? I'm in need of a new scan tool and was wondering if it had those abilities too?
It's a very effective bidirectional scan tool. By itself it pretty much just reads codes, can do logging of data and down/upload tunes. When pared with a computer/laptop it can do bidirectional communication with the TCM and ECM giving you lots of control over diagnostics. Later years with the DPF, it can initiate a forced regen
And unlike many scan tools. The flashscan can read codes from nearly every module on the vehicle. And report emissions readiness status