That's what I was afraid of.
01-10 steering box redhead ,PSC ,OEM
- Thread starter 04chase
- Start date
Have you contacted Blue-Top and showed them this video ? They have very good customer service and have seen them take care of issues past warranty.
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When it comes to reman boxes they are far superior than anything you get from the parts store. I have 70,000+ miles on mine with zero issues. If you have an issue you can call them and talk to the person that built it to figure out a solution.
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Not yet. I just got the truck back together about 2 weeks ago. And took the video a fews days ago. I'll call them Monday morning or send and email over the weekend.
Maybe it just needs new bearings? You will have to take it apart though to find out. I know some of these rebuilders will weld up and re-machine the shaft if it's damaged or worn.
Its funny that I couldn't even sell a used box because everyone is afraid of them. But some of the companies charge $250 for a core if yours is damaged or not returned just because of how hard the good parts are to find. To the best of my knowledge, the new OE boxes stop being produced around 2010 or 2011 from what I read. Everything else is China.
Even some of the NEW boxes are just high quality reman boxes. They completely go through them with a blast and a chemical bath. Then they seem to pchemical coat the housing or a high quality bake on paint, then assemble with a new parts kit and adjust to spec. But the housing and the sector shaft are often reused as long as they are in spec with no damage.
All blue top and red tops are is basically the same thing. They are a high quality rebuilder so you pay for the attention to detail. In some cases they improve upon the weakness of the OE design.
They are alot more strict on what gets re used and what gets replaced.
Well, I sent that video to Bluetop and exchanged emails a few times. He told me to adjust the set screw and that will get rid of some of it but it's impossible to get rid of it all. Adjusted it last night but haven't had the truck out yet. I've done this in the past on other boxes and it's usually only a temporary fix.
Thats bogus if they told you to adjust the shaft play. It clearly looks worn if the shaft can move horizontally like that, that is not a tapered bearing its a needle bearing if i remember. I get it shite happens things get missed but, replace it!
When you tighten the adjuster you should have just slight resistance on the input shaft. 20-30 inlb or something like that of drag if i am remembering correctly. Overtightening will wear your gears. Under tightening will give you the mesh play between the gear itself, and a darn loose input shaft.
When you tighten the adjuster you should have just slight resistance on the input shaft. 20-30 inlb or something like that of drag if i am remembering correctly. Overtightening will wear your gears. Under tightening will give you the mesh play between the gear itself, and a darn loose input shaft.
It has been 1.5 years since it was rebuilt. If it was good from the start was there something that happened in the meantime ? Did Blue-Top have new parts in it but they failed ? Did they not replace some parts they should have ?Was there bad/wrong fluid that helped cause the problem ?
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IMO, I think one of the problems is heat in the system.
Would adding in a power steering cooler help? Or is the factory cooler too small? My truck did not come with a factory cooler, but I am going to add it. Wondering if most guys who have steering issues do not have a cooler at all? Or if the factory cooler is too small, and we all need to put in a larger one.
No factory cooler. So adding a cooler will definitely help
The 2500's and 3500's did not come with the power steering cooler.
I haven't measured the temps on my 1500 with the cooler but the fluid does still get warm.
I suspect any thing would help on the 2500 and 3500's with no cooler. After a 40 mile drive, The first tight turn at low speed is ok but any subsequent low speed moves and the steering goes to complete Shit. With out being on the lock the pump will even squeal when trying to move the wheel.
By low speed moves I am talking like pulling into or backing into parking lot spaces or trying to back up to a trailer.
My opinion, cooler wouldn't help (the bearing anyway). I am all for a cooler for other reasons... but anyway, that needle bearing sits down in that gear, well oiled. Only way that bearing would wear that fast is if it got an abrasive in there, or no oil. My stock (believe to be stock) 229k mile steering gear bearing was still good with no play.
What warranty does the Red/Blue box rebuilds come with?
What warranty does the Red/Blue box rebuilds come with?
If the fluid is breaking down from excessive heat it will not lubricate as well. P/S fluid is one thing a lot of people tend to forget about.
I know the Blue Top warranty is 1 year unlimited miles and I think Redhead is the same.
I know the Blue Top warranty is 1 year unlimited miles and I think Redhead is the same.
Agree about the heat and fluid breaking down for sure. But i don't think it will have an effect on a small low speed needle bearing. Well to be fair, minimal effect to where it'd wear out. If fluid running that hot and worn I'd worry about the pump loosing lubrication then!
My truck gets a yearly PS fluid flush. I've had a cooler on it for I don't even know how long. I run 285/70/17 on H2 wheels. About 85% of my driving is highway.The factory box lasted until about 200k. Got some slop in it that started to get excessive. Replaced it with a Lares reman unit that lasted about a year. It worked great until it didn't. Did a warranty replacement on that one and the replacement was junk from the box. Couldn't get that one replaced. Tried one from a H2 from a junkyard with 150k on it. It was as bad as my original. Sent that core in for the Bluetop. Fresh fluid before each box install. BT worked great. Still does, it's just got that weird play on it from the video.
These boxes shouldn't be this bad.
These boxes shouldn't be this bad.
You guys who ordered the Cardone 978418GB box, did the picture show a four bolt box when you ordered it? Just looked it up on rock auto and it shows a 4 bolt. I'm due for a full front end rebuild and would like to do something with my steering gear that isn't a PSC at this point. Leaning to this (if it's a 6 bolt) or the blue top.
Going to be rebuilding my front end, the stud on my pitman arm snapped so I'm doing a new kryptonite pitman and some dmax store tie rods. While under there I realized I should redo everything I haven't replaced recently. I'm going to replace lower ball joints, arm bushings, idler, cv boots and bump stops. My steering box has a slight leak but it is still tight even with 342k on it.
I'm assuming it wouldn't be too hard to rebuild yourself? Can anyone recommend a good rebuild kit, that isn't cheap Chinese stuff? If the box is still tight should I just replace the leaky seal or while its apart is it a good idea to rebuild the whole thing? Don't want to fix something that isn't broken with lower quality parts and after reading this thread it seems like a new box is hit or miss..
I can't remember but the 6 bolt I got is still super tight and no leaks.