Gotta love an "inexpensive" repair...
Chevelle upgrades.
- Thread starter rfletes79
- Start date
Cylinder cleaned up well, new piston with rings and pin. New SoCal rod. Checked the mains and rod bearings, they all look new so rolling with it.
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Reminds me of the good ole days of helping my uncle swap pistons in the big block on nitrous. Lol
Hope ya don't experience what I did with race cast pistons.
Took a used set that had about 20hrs at 800hp in a boat when one cracked. Put that set, along with one new in a 500hp boat engine, only made it about 10hrs, she cracked another.. Scrapped the whole set and went ovals since it was my warranty work to eat then.
That set was suppose to be shipped back to Fingers to examine the pin area on the remaining 6 for anything of value.
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Took a used set that had about 20hrs at 800hp in a boat when one cracked. Put that set, along with one new in a 500hp boat engine, only made it about 10hrs, she cracked another.. Scrapped the whole set and went ovals since it was my warranty work to eat then.
That set was suppose to be shipped back to Fingers to examine the pin area on the remaining 6 for anything of value.
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The last 3 sets I've used have all had 1 crack. 1 set in a ~400rwhp hotshot dually, and 2 sets in 1000 rwhp trucks. It almost seems like they have had a quality issue or design change in the last 5 years. All the sets I've used or been a part of years ago(like 8 to 10) are still going strong.
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Time will tell, it’s back together and driving down the road. We test here next week to ensure everything is still where it was and get ready for sick week in February.
I’m being hopeful but do realize I’m on borrowed time and better parts are out there. Rolling the dice and gonna start planning the new build. This one still has stock crank, main caps and bone stock cali heads.
Gonna turn the power down some and rely on short track, need to get that more consistent and faster. Also going to move the nitrous nozzles further away from the intake in hopes of spreading the mixture better prior to hitting the intake floor and slow the flow down some. Nozzles are currently 6-8 inches now from the intake floor. Going to move them as far as possible and pre IC, will be over 2’ away once this is done. And also continue limiting the shot. Was on a 800 hit 1 to many times
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I’m being hopeful but do realize I’m on borrowed time and better parts are out there. Rolling the dice and gonna start planning the new build. This one still has stock crank, main caps and bone stock cali heads.
Gonna turn the power down some and rely on short track, need to get that more consistent and faster. Also going to move the nitrous nozzles further away from the intake in hopes of spreading the mixture better prior to hitting the intake floor and slow the flow down some. Nozzles are currently 6-8 inches now from the intake floor. Going to move them as far as possible and pre IC, will be over 2’ away once this is done. And also continue limiting the shot. Was on a 800 hit 1 to many times
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The downside of moving them pre IC is you lose a lot of efficiency in the IC. The hotter the charge entering the IC is, the more efficient it is.
For the coldest charge air temp, you need the nitrous after the IC, even if only just.
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For the coldest charge air temp, you need the nitrous after the IC, even if only just.
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Did you see something in your tear down that showed or looked like you were not getting even distribution to all the cylinders ? or is it more of a theory test and just see what happens ?
Keep it up. Seeing your Chevelle makes me want to stop with the side work and get going on mine
Keep it up. Seeing your Chevelle makes me want to stop with the side work and get going on mine
A little of both. This is the 2nd #4 piston I’ve lost since going to this intake. I’ve heard of others out there with the issue, number 3&4 pistons.
Those 2 holes seem like the straightest shot from the IC plumbing to the cylinders, so it possible based on how fast the air is moving it goes to those holes more then the others.
Just a thought. I also realize I’m way past what’s recommended for power with this combo, so there’s that too….
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Those 2 holes seem like the straightest shot from the IC plumbing to the cylinders, so it possible based on how fast the air is moving it goes to those holes more then the others.
Just a thought. I also realize I’m way past what’s recommended for power with this combo, so there’s that too….
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I've never actually sprayed a diesel personally. However back in the 90s, I sprayed a hundred different gassers. NOS dealer for a decade, and beta tested the first progressive controller unit to hit the market.
My specialty was extremely well hidden street systems. Like direct port under the intake, 20# bottle in spare tire hole. Purge into the exhaust.
But those sneaky Pete on steroids style setups usually suffered failures due to trash in a fuel jet. Is hard to explain a hole in top of a piston, when your naturally asperated... lol fun times.
What I learned that's actually transferable to this discussion, direct port as close to the valve as you can get is your sweet spot. Equal distribution is key. Even in a diesel, pistons don't like a blow touch on em while their neighbor is a richer mixture. They all prefer to all be fueled and cooled equally.
I finally outgrew the low power plates and under intake stuff and went full stackded proshot foggers, on a tunnel ram with efi. Piston holes went away, even with 400-600hp shots. So maybe look at stacking some jetted nozzles shooting right down the pipes.. I do appreciate ghetto fogging for its simplicity.. lol
Bests
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My specialty was extremely well hidden street systems. Like direct port under the intake, 20# bottle in spare tire hole. Purge into the exhaust.
But those sneaky Pete on steroids style setups usually suffered failures due to trash in a fuel jet. Is hard to explain a hole in top of a piston, when your naturally asperated... lol fun times.
What I learned that's actually transferable to this discussion, direct port as close to the valve as you can get is your sweet spot. Equal distribution is key. Even in a diesel, pistons don't like a blow touch on em while their neighbor is a richer mixture. They all prefer to all be fueled and cooled equally.
I finally outgrew the low power plates and under intake stuff and went full stackded proshot foggers, on a tunnel ram with efi. Piston holes went away, even with 400-600hp shots. So maybe look at stacking some jetted nozzles shooting right down the pipes.. I do appreciate ghetto fogging for its simplicity.. lol
Bests
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This is for sure the answer. I just need time and planning with the right parts to make it happen.
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And another 2 bite the dust. Same original set just 2 more broke last month at sick week. Numbers 6&8, topside looks perfect on both pistons. So broke the sides and underneath on both.
Switching to Mahle forged now and other upgrades. 2nd pump coming, bigger injectors and possibly better flowing heads with a bigger cam.
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Switching to Mahle forged now and other upgrades. 2nd pump coming, bigger injectors and possibly better flowing heads with a bigger cam.
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Skirt looks great from here, what was the piston clearance?
Did you pick up a new truck Rick?
That's an interesting break on both of those....
How much spray were you running and what kind of power is putting down?
How much spray were you running and what kind of power is putting down?
I did, it got to the shop today. It’s Brian’s old LLY.
I know it has a lot of history on the track. I have no intentions of keeping it that way. Most of the go fast parts have been allocated to my car, and my workers trucks. They both have trucks they are building and are literally scavenging parts of my new truck. My new truck will be going together as a fairly stock truck to replace my 02 LLY, motor is already on the stand and hope to be a long block by this weekend. I’ll be selling my 02 soon but as an LB7.
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