Weird Lift Kit Issue-No Adjustment!!!

LBZ

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So I just tossed a Fabtech K1045 RTS 6” lift in my friends ‘07 CCSB 4wd and I have an issue. The bolts are all the way out of the keys, and it’s only an inch from being at max droop when on the ground.

I tried re-orienting the key but can’t get it on as it’s past its max and next position drops the bottom of the key 1/2-3/4” below the torsion key housing. My unloading tool is as tight as I can get it in this position to get the half moon in. I compared the keys in it to a set of known stock keys I have and they are identical so I don’t know what’s going on. It’s like it’s got levelling keys in it.

Should I lower it down on the wheels to slide it on and see how it sits? I’m worried it’s going to drop too far if I do that so has anyone else run into this? Attached is a pic of how I have the key now at full droop.
 

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Ron Nielson

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Maybe you can post a viewable picture if it helps to understand your problem.
Did you remove the torsion bars? If so, did you put them back in the correct place?
 

LBZ

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Picture I attached is the key in the only position I can get it in without taking out a bit of droop. Currently it’s sitting on the half moon, bolt all the way out, and just a little off full droop. And it was all I could get to tighten the torsion bar enough to get the half moon in.

I did a full 360 turn on the bars in the control arm end (on the driverside only) in each spot and it doesn’t matter. Key always ends up in the same spot. I never took the bars right out either so end for end is no change.

Passengerside I never took the key off. At full droop they are in the same position almost as they were when I took it all apart. It’s like it needs a drop key.
 

Chevy1925

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Seems like the bracket for the torsion bar on the lower arms is on wrong or your not letting the front suspension fully drop out before trying to put the key/adjuster in or something else

We need more pics of the whole front end.

You know that dale! We cant see pics through text!!
 

LBZ

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Control arm bracket can only go on one way so it’s not that. Looks just like in the installation pic. Arms were both hanging as far down as they could with shocks attached (included in kit and have correct p/n on them for the lift). It’s really got me stumped.

I’m at work now and will be back on the truck next next Monday to do a rear pinion seal and to mess with these keys a bit more.
 

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LBZ

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I wonder if this isn’t what’s sewering me. This truck came from the dealer new with a 2” tapered rear block and bars cranked up.

The spare stock keys I have are indexed the same as what’s in the truck but neither have the visible paint mark anymore to determine indexing.

So it’s possible they put a gm stock key with the most indexing they offered at that time. What would be handy to know is what order of color offered the most indexing for lift.
 

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LBZ

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The plot thickens……..
 

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LBZ

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Had to go way back for this one lol!!!

So basically I’m looking at about 2” difference in lift between purple and green keys. Which is almost exactly what I have too much of. So I’m going to order some purple keys and see how it goes!
 

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clrussell

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I’d bet it has the wrong keys.

I see it often. Well not as often as I used to. But all the kids have moved on to having a tuned l5p in high school
 

2004LB7

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Did you see this thread? Maybe same issue

 

LBZ

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Did you see this thread? Maybe same issue

Yes. That’s what got the wheels moving. I’m putting it on the hoist tomorrow to do the rear pinion seal and going to take a closer look at the keys. Probably going to just drop the buck fifty on a set of 4 degree keys and see how it goes.

Would be interesting to know how many inches of lift difference it is between a 4 and an 18 degree key makes.
 

LBZ

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Hard to see but found it has green keys. Ordered some purple ones and will see how it goes.