Let’s see this thing rip! Let’s go
Twins with Twins, Anyone?
- Thread starter kidturbo
- Start date
Drained the oil and dropped the lower pan on Port engine to replace a leaky gasket. Now looking like it was the upper pan where meets block or front cover draining down onto a pan bolt. Either way, now's a chance to inspect the internals after first 100 hours on it.
Wife took up Yoga a couple years back and bought this nice $40 Peloton mat that she never used. So told her I was going to give Yoga a try.. Hell with Yoga, and the mat sucks too.. Switching back to cardboard..
Found half of the oil level sensor laying in the pan. Couldn't take the shakes.. Glad I never connected those. Pickup looks clean, all the bolts still in the baffle. So far so good.
Think I'll run a scope up the bores and pistons to see how they look from bottom, but beside the Callies throws looking a little dull, no hot spots jumping out at me..
Ya guys think I should polish the crank? Certainly deserves it... 1 BAD MOFO
Wife took up Yoga a couple years back and bought this nice $40 Peloton mat that she never used. So told her I was going to give Yoga a try.. Hell with Yoga, and the mat sucks too.. Switching back to cardboard..
Found half of the oil level sensor laying in the pan. Couldn't take the shakes.. Glad I never connected those. Pickup looks clean, all the bolts still in the baffle. So far so good.
Think I'll run a scope up the bores and pistons to see how they look from bottom, but beside the Callies throws looking a little dull, no hot spots jumping out at me..
Ya guys think I should polish the crank? Certainly deserves it... 1 BAD MOFO
I think you should stroke it... 
I keep trying to increase the stroke. Guessing it takes more than 6,000R's to make those rods stretch very much..
At PRI, the Callies crew said zero failures reported on the Ultra B's. Then 10 minutes later Jeremy told me that one broke, as he's was leaning on a stroked Winburg unit.. My money is on these right here as the undisputed heavyweight camp of the bottom ends.. Counting the FD balancer, and 84lbs of flywheel, there is close to 240lbs rotating mass, spinning 6k, and the smoothest engine ya likely every feel when all wound up.
And I forgot. No Girdle....
At PRI, the Callies crew said zero failures reported on the Ultra B's. Then 10 minutes later Jeremy told me that one broke, as he's was leaning on a stroked Winburg unit.. My money is on these right here as the undisputed heavyweight camp of the bottom ends.. Counting the FD balancer, and 84lbs of flywheel, there is close to 240lbs rotating mass, spinning 6k, and the smoothest engine ya likely every feel when all wound up.
And I forgot. No Girdle....
Last edited:
That's an ultra billet unit?
Neutral balance also. Page 1 or 2 I think has exact specs on them.
They not just blingy on the outside.
Last edited:
Some filters and gaskets arrived today. Not the oil pan gasket I needed, but everything to bolt heads back on Problem Child #2.
Pan gaskets and set of valve cover gaskets arrived today. I purposely switched back to the cork for the lower pans, med-duty units. But these new lower valve cover gaskets got me scratching my head.
Always used OEM steel. And reused again and again. Probably 4 or 5 times the covers been off on that engine. Never leaked a drop.
So what's the word on these compression gaskets? Worth a try, or send em back?
Always used OEM steel. And reused again and again. Probably 4 or 5 times the covers been off on that engine. Never leaked a drop.
So what's the word on these compression gaskets? Worth a try, or send em back?
I hate cleaning graphite, I'd throw them away on sheer principle I do love using some Hylomar on cork.
Although some techs and myself experimented with spraying graphite head gaskets with wd40 for easier cleanup, that was a short term use as we were tearing the cylinder head off about every other day
I do love using some Hylomar on cork.Although some techs and myself experimented with spraying graphite head gaskets with wd40 for easier cleanup, that was a short term use as we were tearing the cylinder head off about every other day
2 votes trash right off.
Dustin said never used em, but not much for the graphite either.
If I use em, probably have covers off 5 times. If I go stock, probably never touch em. Just how it goes..
Sent from my SM-S906U1 using Tapatalk
Dustin said never used em, but not much for the graphite either.
If I use em, probably have covers off 5 times. If I go stock, probably never touch em. Just how it goes..
Sent from my SM-S906U1 using Tapatalk
If i reuse them, I smear permatex #2 all around the lower half where oil would be puddled against mating surface
Sent from my SM-G990U2 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G990U2 using Tapatalk
I've never used the #2 but it sounds like Hylomar
Trash!!! I would use the steel oem style ones.
Graphite compression sucks if you have to service them later....
Graphite compression sucks if you have to service them later....
I've always used the steel OEM type from Mahle or GM. My only experiences with the graphite compression gaskets is they're a pain to deal with.
I spray all my metal gaskets (think valve covers, exhaust manifold, up-pipe, coolant crossover, head gasket etc) with Permatex copper spray gasket. I've done this my entire life as that's what father taught me and to this day (knock on wood) I've yet to have any form of a leak.
I spray all my metal gaskets (think valve covers, exhaust manifold, up-pipe, coolant crossover, head gasket etc) with Permatex copper spray gasket. I've done this my entire life as that's what father taught me and to this day (knock on wood) I've yet to have any form of a leak.
Found one of the originals. Ya can spot where sprayed with copper originally as Brad suggested.
If I find it's mate, will grab a new can of copper and add another notch..
When are we gonna see an L5P swapped boat?
Soon as GM designs a new block and calls it an L5P. After reviewing the bottom end oiling design issues, I don't see any reason to marinize one.
The only abnormal wear issue with the older bottom end design is rod bushing wear. And the occasional broken crank. IMO the LML block is golden for conversion. And of-course, GM discontinued producing those.
I didn't snag a photo when removed, but the lower pan looked pretty rusty outside. A leaky seawater hose had been spaying it down with saltwater for a while. And the rust helped find the leak.. So had a buddy sandblast it down, swapped out the Ol Rust-Oleum for the same brand truck bed liner I used on the engine plates and other steel hardware eight years back.. It's held up well, so what the hell...
Figure this be another good test case the bed sealer line.. We used the two part on all the other stuff year back. And I see this being used for more and more in untested places. While I've had great results with on boat parts use in saltwater, recent data shows it's not very good for coating carbon fiber submarines, or the bottom of reflecting pools...
Figure this be another good test case the bed sealer line.. We used the two part on all the other stuff year back. And I see this being used for more and more in untested places. While I've had great results with on boat parts use in saltwater, recent data shows it's not very good for coating carbon fiber submarines, or the bottom of reflecting pools...
Well that’s disappointing, but at least lml salvage values are falling so plenty of trucks available for parts.
What issues did you find with the L5P block?