Twins with Twins, Anyone?

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Also, i swear i remember seeing tool that you could put in the cylinder bore, snug up and cut an o-ring groove in the block. it was a long time ago and i cant remember if it was on a bare block or what the tool mfg was.
 

Fingers

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you've never had the loc-tite let loose and still let the stud turn? is that only on the 2000's ore have you tried it on something like the 625s or different studs that can hold higher torque?
Never let loose on me, but I mark and check them afterwards to make sure. I am sure you could use the high strength Loc-Tite if you wanted.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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This tool. But its cheaper through many retailers Vs buying direct.

yeah im retarded, thats it. helps if i would have clicked on it before. i was thinking it was for the head, not the block.

Never let loose on me, but I mark and check them afterwards to make sure. I am sure you could use the high strength Loc-Tite if you wanted.

ill have to do that. usually takes me all day to do a short block anyhow, studs can go in before i call it for the night.
 

kidturbo

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Jul 20, 2010
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Yeah that's the tool my buddy said to check out. Was told a local engine builder here has one I can use. To which I said, I'll rent the tool if he comes with it. Or I could dig up a junk block to practice on first..

Back about 70 pages, think we discussed ringing the heads vs the blocks when first changed those LML gaskets. At that time, doing the block was a machine shop job. But now, I'm good with stuffing a rag down the big holes and having a buddy hold the shop vac while I cut em in.
 
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kidturbo

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I guess I do Studs differently that some/most of you.
  • Clean holes. No oil.
  • Blue Loc-Tite.
  • Run them down and then back off at least 1/4 turn.
  • Put an orientation mark on the top of the stud.
  • All studs should be the same height.
  • Put the head on and hand tighten all the nuts while making sure the stud does not turn.
  • Let Loc-Tite cure over night.
  • Remove the head and clean up any excess Loc-Tite.
  • Now assemble as normal. Check the orientation mark after torque passes.
The Loc-Tite willl keep moisture off the threads, Keep the studs from turning, and is easily free up with a little heat to the stud.
Yes you are different.. LOL.

The loc-Tite vs lube approach is a new one for me. Some like dry, some say molly, some motor oil, but this one is new to me. At least we agree on the 1/4 turn. But what do ya do if a stud dose spin in when torquing?
 
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1FastBrick

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Dec 1, 2016
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Yeah that's the tool my buddy said to check out. Was told a local engine builder here has one I can use. To which I said, I'll rent the tool if he comes with it. Or I could dig up a junk block to practice on first..

Back about 70 pages, think we discussed ringing the heads vs the blocks when first changed those LML gaskets. At that time, doing the block was a machine shop job. But now, I'm good with stuffing a rag down the big holes and having a buddy hold the shop vac while I cut em in.
The video and explanation below is kind of long but its real simple to do. About 5 minutes in he gets to setting up the tool to cut to the correct depth.

Basically the tool has pins that stick out of the side and ride on the deck. You place shims under the pins to the deck and tighten the tool up. Then you set the cutter to the block. Remove the shims, then start working the tool around the bore and it will start cutting the deck. It will go all the way down till the pins ride on the deck and you reach the depth you set the cutter to with the shims underneath. It looks like you do this in 2 steps to achieve the desired depth.

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeBbxPQuDA4&t=95s&ab_channel=DanielSoliz
 

PureHybrid

Isuzu Shakes IT
Feb 15, 2012
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im like 95% sure all the head studs for these trucks are that way but dont hold me to it. i know the 2000's, a1 h11 and the 625's are.

You're probably right. Maybe they need back cut further, depending on what shape the bottom hole is in. Sounds to me like the threads are jammed up, not just the stud touching the bottom
 

Fingers

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Yes you are different.. LOL.

The loc-Tite vs lube approach is a new one for me. Some like dry, some say molly, some motor oil, but this one is new to me. At least we agree on the 1/4 turn. But what do ya do if a stud dose spin in when torquing?
They won't, but if they do, use a stronger Loc-Tite!
 

kidturbo

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The video and explanation below is kind of long but its real simple to do. About 5 minutes in he gets to setting up the tool to cut to the correct depth.

Basically the tool has pins that stick out of the side and ride on the deck. You place shims under the pins to the deck and tighten the tool up. Then you set the cutter to the block. Remove the shims, then start working the tool around the bore and it will start cutting the deck. It will go all the way down till the pins ride on the deck and you reach the depth you set the cutter to with the shims underneath. It looks like you do this in 2 steps to achieve the desired depth.

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeBbxPQuDA4&t=95s&ab_channel=DanielSoliz
Thanks for that link. Looks easy enough.

Until he got to the 9:35 mark, says put the deck level on the stand. My stands don't rotate... LOL. But I don't see why it wouldn't work fine how they sit. Being mindful of the angle. More concerned about the metal shavings generated however. Bet I can tape a good neo-magnet on back side of that blade, and maybe grease the deck down to make this happen with bottom end intact.

Who's with me ??
 

1FastBrick

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Thanks for that link. Looks easy enough.

Until he got to the 9:35 mark, says put the deck level on the stand. My stands don't rotate... LOL. But I don't see why it wouldn't work fine how they sit. Being mindful of the angle. More concerned about the metal shavings generated however. Bet I can tape a good neo-magnet on back side of that blade, and maybe grease the deck down to make this happen with bottom end intact.

Who's with me ??
I am in.

I don't think it being level is critical as long as your mindful of the tool being used evenly as it goes around the bore And that you get all the way down till it's riding on the pins ensuring the correct depth.

I am thinking you can tape the decks up. Maybe use the play-do like James said in other area's
 
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kidturbo

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just turn the block upside down 😛
Dang it. Why didn't I think of that one??

Tape job is probably our best option. With some tack-cloth stuffed down each hole being cut. Was actually first material that came to mind watching that demonstration.. All down with cover, cut, clean, repeat. Plus just hooked up the air compressor in the shop. We good.

This is gonna make some great video. One way or another. :)
Thanks again for all the suggestions.
 
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kidturbo

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They won't, but if they do, use a stronger Loc-Tite!
Ok so now my next "best even torque technique" question has to be, 1/4 turn Loc-Tite vs lightly bottomed threads.

I'm just guessing here, but our primary goal is to allow all the studs to fully float evenly thru heat and pressure cycles. Which bottomed they likely do not. So using Loc-Tite actually allows for heat expansion, without allowing rotation? Am I close?

Or is our goal just to hold em even long enough to get everything torqued down? Curious, because that is moving away from the lightly lubricated threads belief of no drag on the fastener equals truer values.