The one Isky Sells that he point out earlier?Also, i swear i remember seeing tool that you could put in the cylinder bore, snug up and cut an o-ring groove in the block. it was a long time ago and i cant remember if it was on a bare block or what the tool mfg was.
Never let loose on me, but I mark and check them afterwards to make sure. I am sure you could use the high strength Loc-Tite if you wanted.you've never had the loc-tite let loose and still let the stud turn? is that only on the 2000's ore have you tried it on something like the 625s or different studs that can hold higher torque?
This tool. But its cheaper through many retailers Vs buying direct.
ISKY Racing Cams Groove-O-Matic Tool [200GRM] - Groove-O-Matic Tool Full-Size V8 With 3 3/4 -4 3/8 Cyl. Bores Incl. Copper Wire/Complete Instructionsiskycams.com
Never let loose on me, but I mark and check them afterwards to make sure. I am sure you could use the high strength Loc-Tite if you wanted.
Yes you are different.. LOL.I guess I do Studs differently that some/most of you.
The Loc-Tite willl keep moisture off the threads, Keep the studs from turning, and is easily free up with a little heat to the stud.
- Clean holes. No oil.
- Blue Loc-Tite.
- Run them down and then back off at least 1/4 turn.
- Put an orientation mark on the top of the stud.
- All studs should be the same height.
- Put the head on and hand tighten all the nuts while making sure the stud does not turn.
- Let Loc-Tite cure over night.
- Remove the head and clean up any excess Loc-Tite.
- Now assemble as normal. Check the orientation mark after torque passes.
The video and explanation below is kind of long but its real simple to do. About 5 minutes in he gets to setting up the tool to cut to the correct depth.Yeah that's the tool my buddy said to check out. Was told a local engine builder here has one I can use. To which I said, I'll rent the tool if he comes with it. Or I could dig up a junk block to practice on first..
Back about 70 pages, think we discussed ringing the heads vs the blocks when first changed those LML gaskets. At that time, doing the block was a machine shop job. But now, I'm good with stuffing a rag down the big holes and having a buddy hold the shop vac while I cut em in.
im like 95% sure all the head studs for these trucks are that way but dont hold me to it. i know the 2000's, a1 h11 and the 625's are.
They won't, but if they do, use a stronger Loc-Tite!Yes you are different.. LOL.
The loc-Tite vs lube approach is a new one for me. Some like dry, some say molly, some motor oil, but this one is new to me. At least we agree on the 1/4 turn. But what do ya do if a stud dose spin in when torquing?
Thanks for that link. Looks easy enough.The video and explanation below is kind of long but its real simple to do. About 5 minutes in he gets to setting up the tool to cut to the correct depth.
Basically the tool has pins that stick out of the side and ride on the deck. You place shims under the pins to the deck and tighten the tool up. Then you set the cutter to the block. Remove the shims, then start working the tool around the bore and it will start cutting the deck. It will go all the way down till the pins ride on the deck and you reach the depth you set the cutter to with the shims underneath. It looks like you do this in 2 steps to achieve the desired depth.
I am in.Thanks for that link. Looks easy enough.
Until he got to the 9:35 mark, says put the deck level on the stand. My stands don't rotate... LOL. But I don't see why it wouldn't work fine how they sit. Being mindful of the angle. More concerned about the metal shavings generated however. Bet I can tape a good neo-magnet on back side of that blade, and maybe grease the deck down to make this happen with bottom end intact.
Who's with me ??
Dang it. Why didn't I think of that one??just turn the block upside down
Ok so now my next "best even torque technique" question has to be, 1/4 turn Loc-Tite vs lightly bottomed threads.They won't, but if they do, use a stronger Loc-Tite!