Rear End Seals Replacement

fattirevtx

New member
Jun 10, 2015
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Moore, OK
Does anyone have a link to a repair manual for the 11.5 rear end?

I am a Allison certified mechanic and I recently bought my first Duramax. Its an 05 2500HD 4X4 Crew cab SB. I noticed axel and pinion seals leaking did my research and decided to change them along with my wheel bearings. I followed the replacement steps I had found in this forum and others.
(pinion mark the nut and replace where it was) (axel seal was pretty standard the torque nut to 55ft/lbs)
I drove about 50 miles and noticed a howling during deceleration and both axel seals leaking. When I took the wheel hubs off I found a large amount of metal dust in the oil.

If you don't know where I can get a manual does anyone have an idea where I wen wrong? Or if I may have just got bad bearings from the parts store?
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
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Feb 14, 2007
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Did you leave it torqued to 55? If so, that is probably your problem. This is the proper procedure for installing the hub.

TIGHTEN
Adjusting nut to 70 Nm (52.0 lb ft).
Turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise until the nut is loose using the J 2222-C.
Turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the nut contacts the bearing cone. Torque on the nut must be zero to finger tight.
 

fattirevtx

New member
Jun 10, 2015
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Moore, OK
I did back it off to the next key hole after I torqued it. This was less than finger tight. Are we supposed to torque it and back it off several times to ensure the race is properly seated? It looks like i did not have enough torque on the nut. The bearing wore at the top and bottom of the rollers and the seal had enough room to rotate apart (the 2 pieces separated).
 

JoeyD

WTF
Apr 21, 2008
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I did back it off to the next key hole after I torqued it. This was less than finger tight. Are we supposed to torque it and back it off several times to ensure the race is properly seated? It looks like i did not have enough torque on the nut. The bearing wore at the top and bottom of the rollers and the seal had enough room to rotate apart (the 2 pieces separated).

I usually torque it a few times to make sure it's seated, also make sure your spinning it while your doing it.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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The bearing should not be loose enough for you to be able to lift up on the hub and feel it being "loose". If so, you need to tighten it to the next key hole or more till that play is gone. Same idea as servicing hubs in a trailer or front of a truck but with less preload. Spin hub to make sure it spins freely. A little preload on the bearing won't kill it. Specially if they are new, there is a little break in that will happen
 

Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
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CT
^^ seat them good and back it off. Then tighten up to contact and the next hole not back a hole.

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