Possibly a Bad ECM?

Daryl LBZ

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Jul 18, 2024
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Hi everyone, I'm looking for thoughts/opinions/knowledge/advice on this issue I'm having with my 2006 Silverado 2500HD LBZ. I have been fixing this truck up over the past 3 1/2 years and am ready to put it back on the road. Hope you guys don't mind the following long post explaining what's going on, I just want to be a thorough as possible explaining everything.

So, a couple of months ago I was wiring up the turn signal and running lights on my set of Boost Auto tow mirrors. I went to use the mirrors and noticed that nothing in the truck was working correctly. When I scanned for codes I found some U-Codes (Communication Issues). After a few days of troubleshooting, I found that when I was grounding the wire for the tow mirrors under the dash that I had accidently pinched the purple wire coming out of the OBD 2 port and it was grounding out causing my communication issues. I fixed the wire and all was well.

Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago. I had the truck in the garage on jack stands so I could bleed the brake system, and use my scan tool to cycle the ABS unit to purge it of air. After I cycled the ABS unit with the scan tool, I started walking around the truck to bleed the brakes again. As soon as I got to the passenger side rear wheel the truck let out a loud bang, almost as if the engine had snapped the crankshaft, but the truck was still running perfectly fine. I immediately ran to the driver’s side door where my wife was setting and as soon as I got there the truck died. I proceeded to check for codes with my scan tool and found U-Codes once again. I cleared all codes, started the truck, and it ran for about 30 seconds before dying once again. The next day I started looking into the issues and found that the small plug on the left side of the BCM was loose. I plugged that back in and the truck was once again running with no issues. I even took it down the road where it drove perfect with no issues. I came to the conclusion that when my wife was setting in the truck that she had bumped the BCM with her leg and the loose plug moved and that was what had caused my issue.

So, then a few days later I was moving the truck around in the driveway, the wife was outside and she told me that she thought she saw one of the marker lights acting weird but she wasn’t sure. I also noticed that when I was moving the truck around it revved up while I had my foot on the brake. I thought maybe I had accidently pressed the accelerator while I was on the brake, but after some thought I didn’t think that was what happened and I just dismissed both issues. I pulled the truck into the garage to do an oil change. I did the oil change, started the truck, and crawled underneath while it was running to check for leaks. As I was underneath the truck it died. I got up and into the cab and the truck would do absolutely nothing. The dash was completely freaking out, the truck wouldn't even attempt to turn over, and now when I turn the key on there is a ticking sound in the fuse block area. I plug in my scanner and it will not communicate with anything.

Yesterday I started to look into the new issues further. After removing various fuses, I found that when I removed the fuse for the ECM that the noise in the fuse box went away. So, I decided to unplug both plugs to the ECM. After I did this everything electrical stopped acting up. I plugged in my scan tool and now I can communicate with everything again (except for the ECM obviously). Now before I unplugged the ECM, I was getting a service 4wd warning in the DIC, now that has gone away and the only message, I get now is to Service ABS system. So, after the most recent troubleshooting I have come to the conclusion that I have a bad ECM.

I’m not sure what has caused the ECM to go bad. I believe it’s either one of three things. Whenever I had the truck setting outside two winters ago, I didn’t realize that the ECM was laying in the bed of the truck underneath other parts the entire time. Needless to say, it was getting rained and snowed on so I'm sure that definitely wasn't good for it.

Another reason I’m guessing could be from when I accidently ground out the purple wire from the OBD 2 port. I figure that maybe could have fried something in it.

The last thing I can think of is when I was using my scan tool to cycle the ABS module. Maybe that did something as well? Either way I'm not 100% sure it's any of these things, just some guesses.

What are your thoughts on this? Does it sound like the ECM is bad to the majority of everyone on here. My next question is, where do I get a new one from, or where do I send mine in to be fixed. I want a reputable place for this to be done. Any input is greatly appreciated! I have a lot of time and money into this truck and I'm so close to getting it back on the road!

I've attached the PDF of the report from my scan tool with the codes that I'm getting as well.
 

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2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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Welcome. That's quite a story

First things first. Did you unhook both batteries for 15 minutes?

I'd also double check the main grounds. That one under the driver side door on the frame is notorious for causing issues.
 

Daryl LBZ

New member
Jul 18, 2024
27
8
3
Pennsylvania
Welcome. That's quite a story

First things first. Did you unhook both batteries for 15 minutes?

I'd also double check the main grounds. That one under the driver side door on the frame is notorious for causing issues.


Thank you!

I did not unhook the batteries, I will do that tonight when I get home from work and see what that does.

As for grounds, I should have mentioned that I have replaced all the battery cables with upgraded ones, and I have gone over and cleaned/checked every ground I know 3 times now. I was really hoping that was the issues but it doesn't seem like it.
 

Daryl LBZ

New member
Jul 18, 2024
27
8
3
Pennsylvania
Welcome. That's quite a story

First things first. Did you unhook both batteries for 15 minutes?

I'd also double check the main grounds. That one under the driver side door on the frame is notorious for causing issues.

So I left the batteries unhooked all night, went out today hooked them back up and the truck still won't do anything.
 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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So I left the batteries unhooked all night, went out today hooked them back up and the truck still won't do anything.
Time to put it on the bench harness and see if the ECM can still communicate. That will tell you if it's the ECM or not
 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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Can you explain exactly what that means? That might be above my level of knowledge...
You pull the ecm (technically you can still do it in the truck) and attach a harness with the needed pins to power the ECM and connect to the communication pins. It has a power connector and OBD port. This allows you to isolate the ECM from everything else so nothing can interfere with it. Dedicated power and communication. This is sometimes necessary for unbricking or writing tunes.

It's not too unlike this one
s-l1200.jpg

Some choose to purchase one. Other make them. If you know how to wire up pins and crimp connectors. This isn't hard to do. If you're not familiar with that or don't have the tools. Might be better to just purchase one
 

Daryl LBZ

New member
Jul 18, 2024
27
8
3
Pennsylvania
You pull the ecm (technically you can still do it in the truck) and attach a harness with the needed pins to power the ECM and connect to the communication pins. It has a power connector and OBD port. This allows you to isolate the ECM from everything else so nothing can interfere with it. Dedicated power and communication. This is sometimes necessary for unbricking or writing tunes.

It's not too unlike this one
View attachment 129847

Some choose to purchase one. Other make them. If you know how to wire up pins and crimp connectors. This isn't hard to do. If you're not familiar with that or don't have the tools. Might be better to just purchase one



Well look at that, that's pretty creative! I could probably make my own, but at this point it would probably be easier to just buy one. Any idea where I could buy one that would work with my truck?
 

1FastBrick

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2016
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Well look at that, that's pretty creative! I could probably make my own, but at this point it would probably be easier to just buy one. Any idea where I could buy one that would work with my truck?
Not cheap but I get my stuff from Bench Force. Its a subsidiary of EFI connection. I have seen similar DIY style ones for way less money but finding one to work.

The one above looks like RCPcalibration on EBay. I see has an 05 LLY style listed perhaps he can make you and 06 LBZ unit?

 

Cougar281

Well-known member
Sep 11, 2006
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St Louis, MO
Go to post #22. I don’t know if it works on Lbz too, maybe @JoshH or someone else can confirm.
The thing about isolating the ECM or pulling fuses on the LB7 and LLY is everything except ecm-tcm-ficm comms was on the class 2 bus and CAN did not come to the DLC. So if you had something on the bus that wouldn't listen to the 'SHUT UP' command issued when reading/writing, it's chattering would/could cause the read or write to fail. With the LBZ, the ECM, TCM and gpcm are on the GMLAN bus, everything else is on the class 2 bus, so if something is chattering on the class 2 bus, it doesn't matter because it doesn't cross over and interfere with the communication on the GMLAN bus.

One quick test you could to is check the resistance on the GMLAN pins at the DLC. Should be 60 ohms across them. If it's other than that, there's a wiring problem somewhere.
 

Daryl LBZ

New member
Jul 18, 2024
27
8
3
Pennsylvania
The thing about isolating the ECM or pulling fuses on the LB7 and LLY is everything except ecm-tcm-ficm comms was on the class 2 bus and CAN did not come to the DLC. So if you had something on the bus that wouldn't listen to the 'SHUT UP' command issued when reading/writing, it's chattering would/could cause the read or write to fail. With the LBZ, the ECM, TCM and gpcm are on the GMLAN bus, everything else is on the class 2 bus, so if something is chattering on the class 2 bus, it doesn't matter because it doesn't cross over and interfere with the communication on the GMLAN bus.

One quick test you could to is check the resistance on the GMLAN pins at the DLC. Should be 60 ohms across them. If it's other than that, there's a wiring problem somewhere.


I had SP205 out and checked it whenever the truck wouldn't stay running after I installed the tow mirrors. I found and still have a lot of information on this from last time. Last time I was getting the trouble code for Data Link Low which "usually" means a grounding issue which is exactly what it was because I had accidently grounded the purple wire coming out of the OBD2 port. Data Link High "usually" indicates an open circuit which could be a wiring problem, or one of the modules is bad and it will not stop constantly trying to communicate on the serial bus which in turn block communications with everything else. That's the way I understood it anyway, but from what you posted above is that not the case?
 

Daryl LBZ

New member
Jul 18, 2024
27
8
3
Pennsylvania
Not cheap but I get my stuff from Bench Force. Its a subsidiary of EFI connection. I have seen similar DIY style ones for way less money but finding one to work.

The one above looks like RCPcalibration on EBay. I see has an 05 LLY style listed perhaps he can make you and 06 LBZ unit?


Good to know, I'll check it out. Thank you!!
 

Daryl LBZ

New member
Jul 18, 2024
27
8
3
Pennsylvania
Not cheap but I get my stuff from Bench Force. Its a subsidiary of EFI connection. I have seen similar DIY style ones for way less money but finding one to work.

The one above looks like RCPcalibration on EBay. I see has an 05 LLY style listed perhaps he can make you and 06 LBZ unit?



This is from Bench Force. Does this seem to be the correct one for my truck?


OBD.PNG
 

SoCalMike

Active member
Dec 12, 2010
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California
May be I missed it but have you checked both the batteries to ensure they are both good? When I say checked the batteries, I don't mean with a volt meter. You need to load test the battery's.
 

Daryl LBZ

New member
Jul 18, 2024
27
8
3
Pennsylvania
May be I missed it but have you checked both the batteries to ensure they are both good? When I say checked the batteries, I don't mean with a volt meter. You need to load test the battery's.

Both batteries are fairly new, I replaced them 2 years ago now. I haven't load tested them, but I do have a TopDon Battery Tester I can check them with.
 

SoCalMike

Active member
Dec 12, 2010
851
79
28
California
Both batteries are fairly new, I replaced them 2 years ago now. I haven't load tested them, but I do have a TopDon Battery Tester I can check them with.
I would load test them. The digital battery testers are not always accurate. I have both and got different results. A load test will tell you if the batteries are good under a load.