Please help me!! My son's LB7 is stumbling at 80 km/hr under light load No Trouble codes

jhanratt

New member
Sep 14, 2025
10
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3
British Columbia
Thank you all for your time!

So my son now owns and drives my old 2003 Chev duramax allison C/C 4X4. He is a student and needs a reliable cheap truck. I bought the truck new in 2002 and serviced it extremely well including very frequent drivetrain fluid changes. It currently has 354,000km.

It recently started stumbling / stalling briefly at about 80km/hr (50mph I think?) under very light load. It won't do it pulling any kind of hill or under a load.
It will do it with tow haul mode and OD cancelled but its more subtle and hard to notice. A hard throttle pull will stop the problem but as soon as you release throttle and allow the upshift it does it again. It does not care if its in 4wd or 2wd. It's intermittent and acts perfectly some days but when it starts doing it, then it does it consistently like every 5 seconds. It almost feels like the the transmission starts a downshift then it decides not to. It will sometimes (very rarely) show a very slight stumble at idle which increases with rpm. This is very rare but it if starts doing it at idle it will act up on the highway. This truck runs otherwise perfect. It starts well and pulls HARD for a bone stock all original truck.

I'm at a loss. We have tried:

1.) Having my local transmission rebuilder test drive it and run it on his snap on scanner. No Codes detected and of course it wouldn't act up for him. He recommended trans-go junior shift kit and a second trans-go kit. He said they fix most Allison issues and he highly recommends them. I personally did them both and can report that the sump was clean and the oil smelled good but was a little dark. The magnet in pan had very light shiny sludge. No gritty stuff. New filters X2 and new oil.

2.) Front driveshaft u joints. They were lumpy. They shouldn't be in play in 2wd but we changed them anyway. Transfer case front output shaft bearing checked while driveshaft was out. Felt smooth. Checked the rear driveshaft u-joints and bearing by turning it while it was up on stands. Everything felt smooth.

3.) Removed and cleaned the grounds at the drivers side frame rail. (this is a known corrosion point and can cause communication errors.)

4.) Replaced the fuel filter and the fuel lines on both sides of the filter. (they were cracked and the truck was losing prime -solved.)

5.) I checked the air filter. The vacuum gauge shows no restriction and the filter looks good.

6.) I ran a diagnostic scan with a friends scanner: No codes found in the system. I can see fuel rail pressures and fuel injector data but I don't know what I'm looking at. If I go into the menu for injectors I can select one injector at a time which seems to shut off that injector for a few seconds causing a cylinder miss.

Known issues maintenance factors:

reman hydro boost
reman power steering pump second one because the first failed. (It whines a bit)
Leaky steering box which caused the failure of oe power steering pump. (I think it is tired and needs replaced)
The brakes have a shimmy and need the rotors turned.
I personally put a set of Bosch reman injectors and all new injector plumbing at about 180,000 because it wouldn't start warm. (high return fuel return rates were warming fuel which reduced fuel viscosity and the engine couldn't build enough pressure to enable injectors) No problem since.

Please help me out. I'm very solid mechanically but I need help with the correct diagnosis.

Thank you again for your time.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
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With no codes showing, this is not going to be an easy one for you (or anyone else for that matter) to diagnose.

What about the NSBU or wiring? Did you notice fluid inside the connection to the pan?
Might be injectors or CP3 starting to fail if its an engine issue? Have you done diagnosis on those yet?
I'm just throwing darts at the board......

Honestly, your best bet is to take the truck to a good Duramax shop if you have a go-to guy who really knows these trucks.
 

jhanratt

New member
Sep 14, 2025
10
2
3
British Columbia
With no codes showing, this is not going to be an easy one for you (or anyone else for that matter) to diagnose.

What about the NSBU or wiring? Did you notice fluid inside the connection to the pan?
Might be injectors or CP3 starting to fail if its an engine issue? Have you done diagnosis on those yet?
I'm just throwing darts at the board......

Honestly, your best bet is to take the truck to a good Duramax shop if you have a go-to guy who really knows these trucks.
I have had really bad luck with shops and I don't have one i trust. With the no start condition warm (8 years ago) the dealer insisted it was Glow Plug relay. (the truck started fine cold) obviously their repair didn't fix it. Then they said it was a fuel line rub at back of the cab allowing air in. (No loss of prime and it started well cold) that also didn't fix it. Then they said it needs a new ECU. At that point I left and searched it up on the forums and determined it was high return rates warming the fuel causing low viscosity/low fuel pressure and computer would not enable fuel injectors. I put in a full set of Bosch injectors and problem solved. I could go on with other misdiagnosis but needless to say I don't trust the dealer and I don't have a good local diesl shop who is good with the LB7.

I may have to daily drive it myself until it gets bad enough to throw codes or show dramatic symptoms.
I'm not sure what you mean by fluid in the the connection to the pan? The shift shaft seal was packed with dry dirt so I determined there was no leak and left it alone. The NSBU has failed at least 6 times over the years and it always starts with loss of PRNDL indicator and then the truck goes into limp mode. I've had such bad luck with them that I used to carry a spare behind the seat.

I would love to check the Fuel rail pressure and injector balance. My loaner scanner shows the numbers it but I don't know what the numbers mean.

A weak ground makes sense to me.
A weak fuel pressure regulator makes sense to me.
A weak CP3 makes sense to me.

It feels too dramatic to be a single injector failure but you never know. It's like i loses all fuel pressure for 1/4 second or like a loss of all spark in a gas truck for 1/4 second.
An engine issue seems unlikely to me. It has zero blowby. It has very clean clean oil (for a diesel) and it has had frequent LOF changes.

I'm willing to do the work but I don't want to randomly throw parts at it.

Hey Thanks for your time guys!!!
 
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Jakezed22

Active member
Dec 2, 2016
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Try checking fuel system for restriction with a vacuum gauge.

Had one with bunch of bugs in the tank that would intermittently would plug the feed in the tank.
 

jhanratt

New member
Sep 14, 2025
10
2
3
British Columbia
Thank You I absolutely will check it but I highly doubt it. I had to replace the pick up and fuel sender about 3 years ago. It started running out of fuel at 1/4 tank on the gauge. Of course it got a new pick up filter and I checked the tank thoroughly. I buy fuel at a reputable bulk plant (95% of the time) and they filter post pump before the dispenser. My tank was shockingly clean for a truck with 300,000km on it. Also I would expect the symptoms to be worst at WOT since the demanded fuel flow would be higher. This issue seems worst in OD at 80-90km/hr under no load .

I will check all suggestions tho. I appreciate your time and I'm not afraid of the work!
Try checking fuel system for restriction with a vacuum gauge.

Had one with bunch of bugs in the tank that would intermittently would plug the feed in the tank.
 
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Ron Nielson

Active member
Oct 11, 2009
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Berryton, KS
I'm not sure what you mean by fluid in the the connection to the pan?
The wiring from the TCM attaches at the passenger-side rear of the transmission. Look at that connection and see if there is trans fluid present. If so, use some brake cleaner to remove the oil from both sides of the connector.
 

jhanratt

New member
Sep 14, 2025
10
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3
British Columbia
Does it do it while using cruise control? Wondering if it’s a glitch in the accelerator pedal.
I had given that some thought as well. I might look around in my loaners scanner and see if I can find throttle position and monitor it. The truck has given me grief to reset the oil life since day one with the repeated full throttle to idle pumps on the fuel pedal. (I don't have the steering wheel controls. :( I always wondered if the pedal sensor was not showing WOT. As for doing it on cruise or not I can't say because my son usually drives it. I have recently switched with him and I'm now driving it full time to try and figure it out.

I watched the desired fuel pressure and actual fuel pressure today while driving and under stable conditions it is very close (within 1-2) it doesn't matter if its' idle, full throttle, or anywhere in between they are very close. During hard sharp acceleration or deceleration the is a lag and it can be out by 20+ but very only very briefly. The truck didn't act up today. (probably because I was watching it!

Thanks all I will keep you posted when I can get a chance to work on it.
 

jhanratt

New member
Sep 14, 2025
10
2
3
British Columbia
New development. So this morning I drove it in the dark. It started acting up and I had my scanner plugged in. It showed BCM fault. Codes B2644-OC and P0044_0C. Then it sent a failure to communicate warning on the scanner several times. On shut off there are no codes stored in the computer that the scanner can detect.

I happened to notice that the heater fan cycles on an off about every 10 seconds when this malfunction is occurring. Also I noticed that right now when the turn the headlight switch off the truck runs well. When you turn the headlights off the problem comes immediately back.

So based on the above I pulled the BCM and re-flowed the solder on the pins. No change. truck is currently running well with no codes until you turn on the headlights. Then it immediately acts up with heater fan cycling and the engine stumbling.

Bad BCM???
 

jhanratt

New member
Sep 14, 2025
10
2
3
British Columbia
Further development. removing the Low beam relay from the electrical box behind the driver side battery allows me to turn the lights on without upsetting the truck. I'm going to pull the electric box now and look for bad or weak connections. BTW the scanner and gauge voltmeter both show stable voltage around 13.8.
 
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jhanratt

New member
Sep 14, 2025
10
2
3
British Columbia
further development. Electrical box fuse box is clean and looks fine. Removing the left side low beam fuse or activating the high beams also stops the malfunction. It seems to be tied to the left side low beam. Yet all lighting functions correctly.

Suddenly it stopped acting up again. At least it gave me a window into the issue. It has to be downstream of the fuse box because the BCM activates the low beams with Ground to the low beam relay which splits to a fuse for each side.
 

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jhanratt

New member
Sep 14, 2025
10
2
3
British Columbia
No time to work on it now But I drove it today and found the exact same thing. I left the house with all fuses installed and drove a short distance the heater fan started cycling up and down over about 10 seconds and the engine started stumbling. I stopped and removed the left hand low beam fuse and it runs perfect as soon as I install re install the fuse it immediately causes a the heater fan to cycle and the engine to miss randomly. Iv'e repeated it at least 10 times for confirmation.

In my opinion there are only two things left:

1.) Remove the HID light bulb and ballast from the left hand low beam and replace with a basic bulb. (maybe there's a some weird interference signal?)
2.) Expose the low beam headlight bulb wire from the fuse box to the headlight and look for wear and chafing. It has to be crossing with a data communication signal wire somewhere. Possibly at the ECU? computer box on drivers front of the fender well/rad support.
 

2004LB7

Super Moderator
Staff member
Dec 15, 2010
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I'd look very closely at the pins in the large bale connectors. Make sure none have backed our or are loose. Weird stuff happens when you loose a few connections in there
 

jhanratt

New member
Sep 14, 2025
10
2
3
British Columbia
Thank you all for your assistance. All indications are that I have solved this. It appears to be interference caused by the aftermarket led bulb and ballast on the left front low beam. They have been in the truck for years without a problem so it is very weird but here's where I'm at now.

I fired it up without low beam fuse it ran perfect. installed left low beam fuse and it immediately stumbled and the heater fan started cycling from low to high. I pulled and installed the fuse 3 times for confirmation. Then I unplugged the left low beam ballast from the factory low beam plug and installed the fuse. No issues. Truck runs perfect. Next I installed a pair of used PIAA high output halogens in both low beams and plugged them in. No issues. Truck runs great without issues. I went for a 1/2 hour test drive and the truck ran great.

I will post again after I've had a chance to drive it a bit more but I'm pretty sure it's resolved. It is very weird because the leds have been in the the truck for years without issue.