LBZ: Perfect turbo for 100% injectors LBZ

garrettlbz

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All things aside what would be the best single charger for 100% exergys in my lbz with only maximum power in mind? I’m thinking either a box sxe476/83 or the stainless 5 blade 476/96. Would compounds be that much more effective power wise than a t4 valley charger ? Any opinions/suggestions welcome


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garrettlbz

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^

What is your usage? What are your goals? Budget?


No budget really just don’t want to go bigger than a 100% injector. Goal would to be make 1000 with a single turbo and maybe a little spray. It’s gonna be used for just having fun with. I have a stock lbz for daily and any towing needs.


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Bdsankey

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No budget really just don’t want to go bigger than a 100% injector. Goal would to be make 1000 with a single turbo and maybe a little spray. It’s gonna be used for just having fun with. I have a stock lbz for daily and any towing needs.


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Lets put aside the need for a built motor etc. I would argue that a good 476/87/0.90 or 1.00 t4 is one of the most fun street turbos when paired with fuel and a good converter (Goerend J). Can still easily daily the truck, spools pretty good (especially when unlocked), and will come close to your HP goals (break 1k on spray).
 

garrettlbz

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Lets put aside the need for a built motor etc. I would argue that a good 476/87/0.90 or 1.00 t4 is one of the most fun street turbos when paired with fuel and a good converter (Goerend J). Can still easily daily the truck, spools pretty good (especially when unlocked), and will come close to your HP goals (break 1k on spray).


Thanks for the opinion. How do you think the stainless diesel 5 blade 475/87/1.0 compares to the box sxe 476? Stainless diesel also offers an 83 turbine wheel on the 475. They have a 476/96/1.1 but that’s pretty big on the exhaust side for the fuel I’m going with for now.


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Bdsankey

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Thanks for the opinion. How do you think the stainless diesel 5 blade 475/87/1.0 compares to the box sxe 476? Stainless diesel also offers an 83 turbine wheel on the 475. They have a 476/96/1.1 but that’s pretty big on the exhaust side for the fuel I’m going with for now.


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I personally think you’d benefit from a different turbo that stainless. In my experience the 5 blade can make a touch more power at peak but they give that up for drivability. A higher blade count wheel IMO offers better transient response at lower shaft speeds.

There are tons of other turbo manufacturers. Forced Inductions, box Borg SXE, Fleece, Bullseye, Comp etc.




You do NOT want a 96 turbine on something you’re going to daily or drive often. I have a 80/96/1.10 t6 on my truck now and wouldn’t recommended it for the weekend warrior. The 87 turbine is the ideal match for a 76 wheel on a street truck and is super proven.
 

garrettlbz

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Nov 7, 2019
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Spring Creek, Nevada
I personally think you’d benefit from a different turbo that stainless. In my experience the 5 blade can make a touch more power at peak but they give that up for drivability. A higher blade count wheel IMO offers better transient response at lower shaft speeds.



There are tons of other turbo manufacturers. Forced Inductions, box Borg SXE, Fleece, Bullseye, Comp etc.









You do NOT want a 96 turbine on something you’re going to daily or drive often. I have a 80/96/1.10 t6 on my truck now and wouldn’t recommended it for the weekend warrior. The 87 turbine is the ideal match for a 76 wheel on a street truck and is super proven.


Thanks!


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Chevy1925

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you are RPM limited with a stock engine and CFM limited with stock heads and cam. The larger the turbo, the more rpm you are going to need to run it.

the absolute most power will come from the turbo that puts you in the most CFM you can cram into that engine under the most efficient area of the turbo map while still having good usable RPM band.

You are going to want more fuel but a billet 480 or possibly a billet 483 on a t6 housing with a a 3-4 or 4.5k rpm range (if it will hold without floating a valve or bending a push rod) is going to net you a hell of alot of power, if not the most you can get out of the current setup. Fueling, Valve float, exhaust manifold/up pipes, and head flow will be your major limit at that point.
 

garrettlbz

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Nov 7, 2019
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Spring Creek, Nevada
you are RPM limited with a stock engine and CFM limited with stock heads and cam. The larger the turbo, the more rpm you are going to need to run it.

the absolute most power will come from the turbo that puts you in the most CFM you can cram into that engine under the most efficient area of the turbo map while still having good usable RPM band.

You are going to want more fuel but a billet 480 or possibly a billet 483 on a t6 housing with a a 3-4 or 4.5k rpm range (if it will hold without floating a valve or bending a push rod) is going to net you a hell of alot of power, if not the most you can get out of the current setup. Fueling, Valve float, exhaust manifold/up pipes, and head flow will be your major limit at that point.


Going with a stage 1 alternate fire cam from either SoCal or Wagler as well as valve springs and pushrods. But leaving the rotating assembly stock until it scatters then I’ll build the bottom end and go with more fuel and compounds.


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Bdsankey

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Going with a stage 1 alternate fire cam from either SoCal or Wagler as well as valve springs and pushrods. But leaving the rotating assembly stock until it scatters then I’ll build the bottom end and go with more fuel and compounds.


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Why destroy the block? 100% and a good set of turbos is enough to break into the 4 digit club and still maintain awesome manners.
 

JoshH

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I ran a 472/87 and a 476/92 on my truck, and I much preferred the 72 to the 76. I'm not sure how much was due to the compressor wheel change and how much was from the turbine wheel, but the 72 was much more responsive and made a little less power than the 76. If you have enough fuel, you can easily make 900 on a good 72mm turbo (that's what the time slip showed I was making); I was running 100% injectors and a 10mm cp3. If you want to add nitrous to it, you should be able to bump that up to 1000 hp without having to go crazy, and I think the 72 would be a lot more fun do drive as well.

I forgot to mention, this was all done on a very mildly built engine with a set of stock head castings and valves running SoCal valve springs and their standard fire 9100 cam (that is probably one of the best duramax camshafts available for a performance street application in my opinion).
 

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