Info: Newbie help

ElectricRook

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Apr 15, 2020
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I'm considering a used Duramax. I've got my eye on a few on CraigsList, and Cars.com. A few look like they've taken some battle damage.

I've done some lurking on the trouble-shooting threads. What scanner will read the codes? I have an Innova, will that show me everything?
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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Moved to Smoke Signals. Agreed, if you want someone to help, you need to give more info.
 

ElectricRook

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Apr 15, 2020
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What I'm watching

I'm a field geologist, I need a dependable 2500 4x4, and I'm a total cheap-skate, I want a low cost 4x4 I can take to 500k.

I'm watching/drooling over the the list below. The question, is will my innova scanner read all engine codes, or is there another scanner I need.

I'm a fair shade-tree mechanic, I've rebuilt a transfer case, I can do bearings, brakes, drivelines, timing belts, water pumps, most equipment repairs, and I used to be an electronics technician, so all the electrical is in the ballpark.

I saw a thread about buying a used truck, where the OP said "I'd like to feel the upper radiator hose on a cold startup." What is he checking for?

a 2001 2500 4x4, $14k, 145k miles, 4x4, with nice big front and rear bumpers, a winch, a shell. I'm a field geologist, so this rock crawler looks pretty nice. Nearby to me.

a 1997 2500 4x4, long bed, looks like Grandpa's camper rig, 63k miles, $15k. 500 miles away.

a 06 2500 4x4, $14k, 49k miles, has taken some battle damage, missing the tailgate, dented fenders, photos look like a repo yard, 200 miles away.

there are two 2500 4x4 about 200 miles from me asking $5500 and $6500, these look pretty trashed, low miles, one has a vertical stack cut into the bed, both are under 100k miles. There are a few "starts but has engine codes."
 

2004LB7

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.I saw a thread about buying a used truck, where the OP said "I'd like to feel the upper radiator hose on a cold startup." What is he checking for?
often time, if the head gasket leaks, it will pressurize the coolant system. It can show as a still hard coolant hose when the engine cools off

a 2001 2500 4x4, $14k, 145k miles, 4x4, with nice big front and rear bumpers, a winch, a shell. I'm a field geologist, so this rock crawler looks pretty nice. Nearby to me.
I would stay away from 01-04 or the LB7 models unless you know the injectors have recently been replaced with the newer SAC style injectors. I would look for an LBZ if you want cheap and reliable

a 1997 2500 4x4, long bed, looks like Grandpa's camper rig, 63k miles, $15k. 500 miles away.
not a Duramax but the 6.2 diesel and way overpriced for what you get. $15k can get you a much newer Duramax

a 06 2500 4x4, $14k, 49k miles, has taken some battle damage, missing the tailgate, dented fenders, photos look like a repo yard, 200 miles away.
might be worth looking into but with no link or photos we have no way of knowing

there are two 2500 4x4 about 200 miles from me asking $5500 and $6500, these look pretty trashed, low miles, one has a vertical stack cut into the bed, both are under 100k miles. There are a few "starts but has engine codes." keep looking. There are plenty out there. If your budget is around $15k then you should be able to find something in decent shape and no codes. Where are you located? We may be able to look around for you but you need to provide use with usable information.

reply in red
 
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ElectricRook

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Apr 15, 2020
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Thanks, I'm in Northern California, about half-way between Sacramento and South Lake Tahoe.

With the economic collapse, I expect to see prices absolutely crash. In 2006, we were looking for a Tahoe for the missus, prices for used 5 year old Tahoes were around $28k. The dealerships panicked, and dumped everything, we bought a new 05 Tahoe for $32k. I'm expecting that in the next 6 months, we'll see a repeat of that. I still find it hard to cough up $35k for a new truck, but coughing up $10k for a good used one will be much easier. I see a lot of used trucks on the market for $30k at the dealerships, I think they'll drop way down to $10 - 15k.
 

DAVe3283

Heavy & Slow
Sep 3, 2009
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I wouldn't be afraid of the LB7 (2001-2004) if you are willing to do injectors yourself. If you've done timing belts, etc., you will be able to do the injectors. You will end up buying a couple specialty tools (or wishing you had), like 19mm crows-foot, injector puller, etc. But it can be done in a driveway in a couple weekends, and save you a ton of money.

If you see a LB7 with bad injectors but otherwise in good shape, you should be able to get it cheap, do the injectors yourself, and have a good truck. If you decide to go that route, post up here and we can give you some tips on doing LB7 injectors. I highly recommend getting the Lincoln Diesel or Merchant Automotive return line bolts to replace the garbage factory design.
 

RMJ_LB7

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Feb 25, 2020
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Thanks, I'm in Northern California, about half-way between Sacramento and South Lake Tahoe.

With the economic collapse, I expect to see prices absolutely crash. In 2006, we were looking for a Tahoe for the missus, prices for used 5 year old Tahoes were around $28k. The dealerships panicked, and dumped everything, we bought a new 05 Tahoe for $32k. I'm expecting that in the next 6 months, we'll see a repeat of that. I still find it hard to cough up $35k for a new truck, but coughing up $10k for a good used one will be much easier. I see a lot of used trucks on the market for $30k at the dealerships, I think they'll drop way down to $10 - 15k.

I too am in northern california. I picked up my 02 quad cab short bed 4x4 duramax for 12K with 152K miles on it. It is very clean and was grandpa owned. My injectors I believe are going out, however after I change the injectors and going to do CP3 at the same time. It should be a very good running truck for a very long time. My buddies dad has a 03 as a work truck with 450K miles and has only needed injectors and CP3 as well.

I would stay away from the 6.2 diesel I just never liked them. For that price can buy a newer truck that more comfortable & reliable.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
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The 97 will be a 6.5 Detroit. Not a duramax. Some guys get good service some don’t but they are no comparison to a duramax and that is terribly overpriced for that truck. That 06 scares me. With that low of miles beat up like that, that’s trucks been rode hard and put up wet. Miles don’t tell the full story. You could get a 250k like truck that may outlast that one.

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it to anyone else looking to buy a truck. Go drive them. Doesn’t matter how nice they look on an ad, put your butt in the seat and that will tell you almost everything you need to know. If it feels right it’s for you. If not then keep looking.
 

ElectricRook

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Apr 15, 2020
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Thanks, the truck I'm leaning towards is this one.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/800849614/overview/

2001, $14k, 145k miles, nice toys added on that are probably worth another $1.5k. So if we subtract the value of the toys I'd like to have, it's $12.5k. If I have to replace injectors, the cp3, and add an AirDog, that's somewhere over $3k. I've seen the injectors & cp3 on Lincoln for $3k, I've seen the install vid for AirDog, but I don't know the price.

I also have a formula. I was searching beetles years ago, I've an affinity for beetles. I was looking on cars.com, and found 70+ beetles in my area, how to sort all the prices and mileages, etc. I pondered for a bit, and remembered google says "reduce it to a formula, then execute the formula." So here's my formula. $price / (250k - miles). I expect a truck to last 250,000 miles. After that, its junk worth zero, miles is how many miles are on the vehicle. So really, my formula gives me expected cost per mile to own the truck. I know there's fuel, tires, maintenance, insurance, etc. But, all those are basically the same, so I don't consider them, only the price of the vehicle and the mileage I'm buying.

So for the 2005 truck, $12,999 over (250000 - 260000) oops, that already negated my search. I consider that to be too far in the mileage category. I expect to get to 250k miles, going out to 500k is just bonus. Anything over 250k is living on borrowed time to me, I'll drive it past 250k, buy I won't buy it over about 150k.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
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Granite Falls NC
If you’re only expecting to get 250k out of a duramax, save yourself some money and get a gas truck. None of the trucks I have owned have had under 250k. My lb7 had 267k when sold, lbz 280k, 96 Sierra had 312k, 2011 ecoboost had almost 300k, and my current 06 has 270k and is driven daily traveling all over the east coast. All other vehicles with the exception of the lb7 (totaled after I sold it) are still on the road.

I do understand your logic on the matter. But diesels aren’t on the same timeline as gas engines, even Toyota’s and Honda’s. There are guys with 300k on their truck pushing crazy numbers in power and racing their trucks at tracks.

I like that 01. And looks to be a decent deal. Just know there’s a chance of doing injectors as soon as you get it. I wouldn’t suspect a cp3 yet, but anything is possible.
 

TheBac

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Apr 19, 2008
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45000 miles on an LBZ for $14000?!? You better call the guy quick and go look at it tomorrow.


Thanks, the truck I'm leaning towards is this one.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/800849614/overview/

2001, $14k, 145k miles, nice toys added on that are probably worth another $1.5k. So if we subtract the value of the toys I'd like to have, it's $12.5k. If I have to replace injectors, the cp3, and add an AirDog, that's somewhere over $3k. I've seen the injectors & cp3 on Lincoln for $3k, I've seen the install vid for AirDog, but I don't know the price.

I also have a formula. I was searching beetles years ago, I've an affinity for beetles. I was looking on cars.com, and found 70+ beetles in my area, how to sort all the prices and mileages, etc. I pondered for a bit, and remembered google says "reduce it to a formula, then execute the formula." So here's my formula. $price / (250k - miles). I expect a truck to last 250,000 miles. After that, its junk worth zero, miles is how many miles are on the vehicle. So really, my formula gives me expected cost per mile to own the truck. I know there's fuel, tires, maintenance, insurance, etc. But, all those are basically the same, so I don't consider them, only the price of the vehicle and the mileage I'm buying.

So for the 2005 truck, $12,999 over (250000 - 260000) oops, that already negated my search. I consider that to be too far in the mileage category. I expect to get to 250k miles, going out to 500k is just bonus. Anything over 250k is living on borrowed time to me, I'll drive it past 250k, buy I won't buy it over about 150k.


Buying a Duramax truck is not like buying a gasoline car/truck, so dont compare them outside comparing the body/interior condition. 200K is nothing to these drivetrains. Hell, at that mileage they're usually just broke in.
 

ElectricRook

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Apr 15, 2020
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Ahhh ... the one I like, with a shell on it, I just bought the car fax. The current owner bought it in January, has put 300 miles on it, and it's back on the market.

That scares me, what are the possibilities?

A. Can't afford it.
B. Doesn't like it.
C. Something wrong with it.
 

2004LB7

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You will need to call and schedule a visit. Only seeing it in person is the only way to know for sure. Have you contacted him yet?
 

ElectricRook

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Only through text messages. With the current market crash, I expect to see the used car ... and new car markets crash. If I can hold out for another six months or so.
 

1FastBrick

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Dec 1, 2016
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Ahhh ... the one I like, with a shell on it, I just bought the car fax. The current owner bought it in January, has put 300 miles on it, and it's back on the market.

That scares me, what are the possibilities?

A. Can't afford it.
B. Doesn't like it.
C. Something wrong with it.

Probably bought it to flip. Or it was traded in somewhere and the car lot didn't want to deal with it So they sold it straight to a 3rd party to unload it.

It Could Need injectors if they have never been done.

As mentioned really need to see it in person and get a feel for the guy selling it as well as the truck it self.

If it was me, I would push to get it for $12,500.

I helped a friend Buy an LBZ truck with 175k that had the turbo done at the dealer a year or 2 prior with all the receipts for maintenance and repairs. Drove nice, balance rates in line, Everything seemed in line and working properly.

After we made the deal, I literally pulled out the driveway and got just down the street when the check engine light came on.... Turbo vanes stuck... The mechanic was going to try some mickey mouse hack he saw on Youtube and they said they would do the work for a discounted rate and parts cost if he kept it and wanted to repair it.
He took the truck any way and drove it like that for at least 2 years before having the work done by some else. Still been a great truck for him.

I bought an 05 LLY with 119K on the clock and its been a great truck for me. it already had the mouth piece replaced and a cold air intake on it.
 

2004LB7

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What about the truck in post #13? Have you any interest in that one? I think it would be a much better buy then the LB7. Newer model, better injectors, less miles, same price
 

ElectricRook

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Apr 15, 2020
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The truck in #13 in Cotati, it is missing the tailgate, and the front right fender is damaged.

The pictures look like a repo yard, and the truck isn't detailed, that is kinda scary too. Although it only has 49k miles on it, it does look like a grandpa's truck.

But the truck with the shell has nice toys added that I'd like to have, nice bumpers and a winch that are probably worth $3500.