Max effort sbe mods, 60ft/susp help

LSxBakakos

Member
May 29, 2022
78
9
8
Illinois
After my recent track times I've had some thoughts about mods to relieve some stress off the engine and work for the future when it does the rod delete kit, as well as get this suspension to work better. Truck made 650 on tune 4([email protected]),5 is another 80-100rw and is unknown so far. My last pass I did pedal it, so I believe I have 11.80s in it with the changes I've made and a good launch

my 60" hasn't improved and until I get it to work properly I won't be going to the bigger tune. I've tried different tire psi, boost on launch, double adj qa1 settings etc. Best I've gotten is a 1.705. wheels/tires are 90lbs a corner, I plan on going with a forged wheel to reduce rotating mass and might go away from the kuhmos since I found a softer compound with the same load index but shaves 5lbs off a corner(wheels/tires would be a total of 13lbs/corner less). Beadlocks and Mickey et pros are a thought, as they make one in the perfect size now for our trucks


My turbos pedestal is ported, and I've been wondering if I'm creating a "bottleneck" considering I'm on stock manifolds and up pipes. I'd like to buy a set of ricks,i don't know if I'll net any gains, but hopefully a reduction in drive pressure?

Been wondering as well if the intercooler would be a benefit at this point too?

Lastly if I'm around 9/16-5/8 of a tank my truck ends up sputtering at the top of 4th gear after a hard launch, as much as I've been avoiding it I think it's time that I put a sump in it?

I'm 110% open ears to anything that others suggest. Ideally I'd like to help take some stress off the bottom end although I'm already playing with fire. just want to see if I'm on the right track and what else I can do to get this thing dialed in better, or free up some poneys without upping the tune while making it a little easier on this old girl
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,065
4,736
113
Phoenix Az
put 1/2" to 3/4" of an inch of toe out in the front end at the track. its a band aid but will get the 60's down.

are you torque steering and/or spinning off the line or will the track take all the boost you can throw at it when launching? also, how good is the prep at the track? if you are going on test and tune night, the track usually deteriorates pretty quick through the night.
 

LSxBakakos

Member
May 29, 2022
78
9
8
Illinois
I will definitely give the toe out a shot, from the videos I've seen im not toeing in, but it never hurts to try. Torque steer is about non existent. They have redone our track surface over last winter and it hands down is the best it's ever been in the 15 years I've been racing there. TNT the left lane is prepped a few times a night which is what I run. Most of the time 16-18psi is the verge on where It'll break them all loose. Im on first gear start also for the record. I have also noticed depending on if I fully mat it or do a fast roll it occasionally will shock the tires and go up in smoke. But most of the time 16-18 is the magic spot. The sputtering on the big end for sure has hurt times, had some perfect launches but run has been ruined by starvation. Balance rates are perfect, so I don't think it's got shortened rods just yet
 

LSxBakakos

Member
May 29, 2022
78
9
8
Illinois
Also before I forget my shock settings have seemed to work best between 6-8 on compression and maxxed out on rebound, the ranchos are on 9 in the rear as well. Even with the hillbilly bars set to "zero lash" it does squat. Have been wondering if some preload would help on the launch too. I've dialed in numerous caltrac/srd assassin bars but between leaving in 4x4 and long bars this is a game changer for me
 

LSxBakakos

Member
May 29, 2022
78
9
8
Illinois
You'll see gains with up pipes on stock Manis. Cheap too
Well I'm just thinking if I can make things a little easier on the ole girl it may be a benefit, especially if it's still adding a little powa. Definitely appreciate the feedback though man! Honestly I may snag a set over this winter, don't know if the manifolds are worth it but wouldn't mind the sound change lol
 

LSxBakakos

Member
May 29, 2022
78
9
8
Illinois
30 degrees cooler, 2000ft less d/a, only made one pass and left @14psi, left tailgate on this time and ran the tires @45 squared. Launch had about half a revolution of slip. Actually dropped .004 off the 60. Should've made another pass with lower pressure to see the difference but track was losing prep fast. Still shit 60" though regardless. Any long bar guys running preload? I've left mine in the "zero lash" state, ass end drops about 2" can post the video as well if it helps anyone see what's going on.

This thing is driving me insane, I've set up numerous rwd cars mono leaf w caltracs, 4 links, my old LS truck on 35s in 2wd would net 1.588 60" but it doesn't seem I can find the sweet spot on 4wd
 

Attachments

  • Snapchat-1429278504.jpg
    Snapchat-1429278504.jpg
    157.2 KB · Views: 27

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,582
599
113
Texas!!!
Stock 16" aluminum wheels and some generic 265/75 tires, remove the torsion bar bolts, clamp the leaf springs. That combo got me consistent mid 1.6 60' times with my 06. Lots of guys ran the M&H drag radials (I think they were 275/50) on stock wheels and got down in the low 1.5s.
 

OleBlackyLBZ

Active member
May 22, 2020
350
85
28
Stock 16" aluminum wheels and some generic 265/75 tires, remove the torsion bar bolts, clamp the leaf springs. That combo got me consistent mid 1.6 60' times with my 06. Lots of guys ran the M&H drag radials (I think they were 275/50) on stock wheels and got down in the low 1.5s.
^ I'm not a bigtime drag racer, but sounds to me like this set-up is going to be awfully hard to beat for the average guy with a street truck especially for the hassle and money spent. It'd be where I would start! Josh do you remember what tire pressure you ran with?
 
  • Like
Reactions: LSxBakakos

LSxBakakos

Member
May 29, 2022
78
9
8
Illinois
Stock 16" aluminum wheels and some generic 265/75 tires, remove the torsion bar bolts, clamp the leaf springs. That combo got me consistent mid 1.6 60' times with my 06. Lots of guys ran the M&H drag radials (I think they were 275/50) on stock wheels and got down in the low 1.5s.
The rotating mass thing I do agree with hands down, my bars are dropped all the way, as far as the spring clamps I'm unsure how that would do with the long bars but those are some damn good 60"s. Prior to the looser converter the truck did have a few high 1.6s I found the other day, only downside is I'm just about at "max" rpm in 5th now going through the traps so I'm sure a shorter tire will have me going through between 38-4k, but I'm not opposed to that
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,582
599
113
Texas!!!
^ I'm not a bigtime drag racer, but sounds to me like this set-up is going to be awfully hard to beat for the average guy with a street truck especially for the hassle and money spent. It'd be where I would start! Josh do you remember what tire pressure you ran with?
I ran 30-35 psi in mine. The drag radial guys, I'm not sure. I never tried them myself.
The rotating mass thing I do agree with hands down, my bars are dropped all the way, as far as the spring clamps I'm unsure how that would do with the long bars but those are some damn good 60"s. Prior to the looser converter the truck did have a few high 1.6s I found the other day, only downside is I'm just about at "max" rpm in 5th now going through the traps so I'm sure a shorter tire will have me going through between 38-4k, but I'm not opposed to that
You clamp the overload to the rest of the pack. It really helps without bars to clamp just the front, but it has the added benefit of stiffening the rear suspension to reduce weight transfer from the front. You might give it a shot and see what happens. If you clamp both ends of the overloads, it really stiffens the rear up quite a bit, but it may be too much. It's cheap enough and easy enough to play with at the track.
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,093
28
48
Boise Idaho
2nd gear start.... was the only way I got my old 05' to go down the track worth a crap. James & Idaho Rob were helping me dial it in. I'll lay out that set up which was very simple that netted me a best of 1.59 on worn out 305 50r 20 toyo proxes st tires lol.

Truck 05 ccsb 6700 pounds with driver.
Caltracs, 5 or 10mm gap on the upper roller, I can't remember now without digging my notebook out.
Rancho 9000 shocks, fronts all the way tight, rears 3-4 clicks from tight.
Full Kryptonite front end, straight bar with offset tierods, braces etc.
Overloads removed and front torsion bar bolt removed, Cvs a little below parallel.
20x9 Raceline wheels, fully thrashed 305 50r 20 proxes st 25 ish fronts, 18-19 rears
1.59 60' 11.51 @ 119 and change.CAECCE91-8CF0-4DE4-959F-231CF6B2839C.jpeg
 
Last edited:

LSxBakakos

Member
May 29, 2022
78
9
8
Illinois
2nd gear start.... was the only way I got my old 05' to go down the track worth a crap. James & Idaho Rob were helping me dial it in. I'll lay out that set up which was very simple that netted me a best of 1.59 on worn out 305 50r 20 toyo proxes st tires lol.

Truck 05 ccsb 6700 pounds with driver.
Caltracs, 5 or 10mm gap on the upper roller, I can't remember now without digging my notebook out.
Rancho 9000 shocks, fronts all the way tight, rears 3-4 clicks from tight.
Full Kryptonite front end, straight bar with offset tierods, braces etc.
Overloads removed and front torsion bar bolt removed, Cvs a little below parallel.
20x9 Raceline wheels, fully thrashed 305 50r 20 proxes st 25 ish fronts, 18-19 rears
1.59 60' 11.51 @ 119 and change.View attachment 110895
Thank you for the solid info! Honestly next season I'll have to try that setting on the rear shocks(qa1 up front rancho 9ks on the rear) and lower pressure just for shits. I do still have my overloads and I've been debating about getting rid of the long bars for caltracs just since I'm quite familiar with them and assassin bars. The long bars were just since this truck is "multi use" but I've actually never added any preload to them. I do need to rescale my truck since I've added dual fuelers and some other odds and ends, if I could net a 60" that good I'd probably go 11.80s on this tune. 5 I'll entertain once the suspension is dialed, but well see. Within the next week she'll be in storage so I'tll just be thoughts for next year. Btw was that also a stock bottom end truck??
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,093
28
48
Boise Idaho
She was definitely a strong runner man! It'd be nice running those times without having to worry about windowing the block 😂
Big part of running good times with these heavy trucks is the 60' get that down and you'd be surprised what it does to your ET. I don't have a ton of money to throw at these things so I massage the sh@t out of what I got...
 

LSxBakakos

Member
May 29, 2022
78
9
8
Illinois
Big part of running good times with these heavy trucks is the 60' get that down and you'd be surprised what it does to your ET. I don't have a ton of money to throw at these things so I massage the sh@t out of what I got...
I definitely believe it, especially after seeing how much better your truck 60s than mine. Funds are limited here too so if I can get this turd a little quicker for some time spent making adjustments im all for it. Definitely want to cut some rotating mass since my 20's and kuhmos are right at 90lb a corner, but well see what happens next season