Lowered Cognito Lift bottoming out
- Thread starter TowU4Free
- Start date
ok, here's my thoughts...
you have shifted the whole balance of the up/down travel. You have miles of wheel droop travel and relatively little compression. The mounts for the shocks are not in the right place for this. The system is set "too low" like what was said. The Rancho will stop the truck when it maxes out - and I think that it is doing just that.
If you can fab a mount that lets the stock rancho sit in the factory position at ride height, I'll bet the truck will drive much better. The suspension will do it's job and stop the up travel, and the Rancho will only stop the droop when the road drops out.
you have shifted the whole balance of the up/down travel. You have miles of wheel droop travel and relatively little compression. The mounts for the shocks are not in the right place for this. The system is set "too low" like what was said. The Rancho will stop the truck when it maxes out - and I think that it is doing just that.
If you can fab a mount that lets the stock rancho sit in the factory position at ride height, I'll bet the truck will drive much better. The suspension will do it's job and stop the up travel, and the Rancho will only stop the droop when the road drops out.
https://youtu.be/J_c0GSfExBQ Check this out
You did see this coming, right????????
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVmM6gi18gY
def need to choose new shocks or fab an extension. I am more comfortable with steel and a welder than opening my wallet, but that's just me :hug:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVmM6gi18gY
def need to choose new shocks or fab an extension. I am more comfortable with steel and a welder than opening my wallet, but that's just me :hug:
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You can't fab an extension, he needs to cut down the shock tabs and mount them lower towards the arm but then you run into the issue of the shock body possibly contacting where the jouce bump bolts to as the mount will no longer kick the shock out as fast when the arm falls down.
Moving the shock out towards the tire and building a new mount also now changes the leverage affect the shock valving had on the arm and could make the ride worse or better depending on what the op likes.
A 2" shorter shock means he gets 1" more up travel in shock which is about all he has left till the jouce is compressed completely and is about to hit metal. Also means he gets 2" more upwards wheel travel.
You found your issue though Tow
heres an update . I got the z71 jounces and I measured the distance from bracket to bracket and cut them so to be almost 1/8 to tall. Now the truck is barely riding on them and from the drive home the truck takes turns better and feels more solid. The issue of the shock being too long is still an issue but I do like the ride better as of now and I'm sure it'll hinder the bottom out slightly till I find a shock the size I need.
NorCalTruck and Nick do not have accounts here..., but I'll be right back with the owner of NCT :angel:
Ok :rofl:, first off what is your center of hub to top wheel well lip measurement? If it's lower than 29", your going to have issues. Next, that Rancho shock (even if stock length) is incorrect for a Cognito package. Cognito has proprietary shocks made from Bilstein and Fox, they were designed after the kit was made, and are specific to the kit. Get back to us with that measurement and we will have something to work with.
I don't....:screwy:
Looks like Russ has you handled:thumb:
He knows this stuff also, I just knew about this thread because he told me.
Way too low... Bring the front up, correct shocks, new bump stops (if cut), and a 1.5" block in the rear. Search "Tucker Dog" truck on YouTube, it's set up exactly like above, and the lowest you should go.
Just curious Russ, is it too low for any shock set up or just the Torsion bars in relation to the suspension geometry? I am only asking because I have been thinking about doing this and putting coil-overs on.
Russ, honestly that would defeat the purpose for me I know it's technically not how it's supposed to be set up but technically my trucks not supposed to have hundred overs either I like the stance of it, and the slightly negative CV angles, with a 1in block and turned up to match it had too much fenderwell for my 33s a 1.5 would definitely be too much. and the reason I use the lift kit is so that anytime I go to the track or pull up to the stop light again someone cocky I don't have to lower the torsion bars I can just put it in four-wheel-drive and go . I put this new Z 71 jounces in The night before last and cut them so that the truck pretty much rested on them ever so slightly it's seem to actually ride better and take turns better. At this point I think I'm just going to do some research on shocks and try to find something a little oddball I appreciate y'all's help thus far
Sounds good, let us know what you come up with for a shock
I'm still using the Bilsteins that came with my 4-6 NTBD kit from Nick. I have the 2" lowering keys turned about halfway up. No block or overload spring in the rear...so about 1" lower rear than stock. Truck still sits level and i have never had any issues.
My sig pic is with the rear blocks and before the lowering keys to give you an idea.
My sig pic is with the rear blocks and before the lowering keys to give you an idea.
Interesting can you post a current pic from the side.