Let's Talk About Electric Water Pumps

[CurtisEmery]

That would explain it. As soon as the valve loses its seal on the the seat it acts just like a torch. That 0.040-0.060" margin on the valve face does the majority of the cooling for the head of the valve. Once it looses contact with the seat bad things happen rather quickly

 

[juddski88]

OK. And you're referring to the exhaust valves still, correct?

 

[CurtisEmery]

I was referring to your burnt intakes. The same thing applies to the exhaust side. It happens much quicker on the exhaust side do to its much higher working temperature.

 

[juddski88]

Yea, I understand how once the seal is lost, that's it, it might as well be trash, I just didnt understand what you meant by "that would explain it." You meant that because of the loose clearances I mentioned, it may have caused the intake valves to close to slow, right?

 

[CurtisEmery]

From what what I read you said the intake valve clearance (lash) was too tight. Or did you mean piston to valve was too tight? If the later is the case you probably had valve contact bending the valve slightly. This could also cause a lose of seal resulting in burnt valves.

 

[juddski88]

no, neither. Valve lash was .011" and piston to valve would've had to have been around .090" since the heads got resurfaced, and the block was decked to get a target piston protrusion of .012". Given, the valves were also sunk a bit more to compensate for the little more cam lift and duration and greater piston protrusion that I am now running. The Allseason/Socal motor was put together by Tony, except the rocker shaft assemblies, so that .090" piston to valve is just my best guess.

 

[ctodd36]

Electric water pumps and Brodix heads still have heat related issues over exhaust seats so mechanical is only waterpump to run them. Tim, part of the issue that is also being over looked is power vs. rpm and we are maintaining more of them than ever before. More rpm makes it more difficult to keep the heat down and controlled. When you are talking
1500++hp in 3.0 trucks and rpms being maintained above 4800rpms and well into the 5200+rpms this problem is not going to go away on its own.

Who is making over 1500? I need to be on that program! Ha


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[Chevy1925]

Who is making over 1500? I need to be on that program! Ha


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Your talking about a 7 year old post, 1500hp and more is in many more trucks than it was back then

 

[ctodd36]

Your talking about a 7 year old post, 1500hp and more is in many more trucks than it was back then

Oh yea I’ve heard! I’m just starting to dabble in 3.0 the last 2 years. 1500 seems to be the goal on most new 3.0 motors if you’re gonna play with the big dogs. I was looking for info on electric water pumps because I’m running a half filled block and wanted to go away from the valley pump because of my intake set up and was looking for options like the SoCal
Bracket


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[MarkBroviak]

Oh yea I’ve heard! I’m just starting to dabble in 3.0 the last 2 years. 1500 seems to be the goal on most new 3.0 motors if you’re gonna play with the big dogs. I was looking for info on electric water pumps because I’m running a half filled block and wanted to go away from the valley pump because of my intake set up and was looking for options like the SoCal
Bracket


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You will want to stay with a mechanical pump of some sort as the electric ones are NOT cut out for the job! 3.0Map turbos got up towards the 1800hp range before they switched the class to smoothbore which brought it back down to a reasonable range in the 1300-1400hp uncorrected area!

 

[ctodd36]

You will want to stay with a mechanical pump of some sort as the electric ones are NOT cut out for the job! 3.0Map turbos got up towards the 1800hp range before they switched the class to smoothbore which brought it back down to a reasonable range in the 1300-1400hp uncorrected area!

I think it’s time the motor makes a return trip out to see you for a day or two and dial it in


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