Lb7 4l80
- Thread starter clrussell
- Start date
this, 100%. bypass the clutch safety or set it up with a micro switch or wiring to start only in park/neutral, then use something like a microsquirt to control the trans.
^These. I was going run mine via a PCS-2800 but there are quite a few other controllers out there that do a pretty darn good job.
Dreaming more than planning. Wanting to Dmax swap something and 4l80 makes life easier.
I currently run an LB7 with an 80 behind it in my Chevelle. Exactly as described above with a pcs2800. Biggest hurdle will be the converter, if you make any power and want to go fast. We’ve since put in a ton of R&D making it work and got it dialed. So far we’re at over 1500hp at the crank and it works.
We’ve done a ton of internal mods as well on the trans to get it to hold up. If you need anything lmk I can get you pointed in the right direction or set you up with specific parts.
Rick
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We’ve done a ton of internal mods as well on the trans to get it to hold up. If you need anything lmk I can get you pointed in the right direction or set you up with specific parts.
Rick
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I actually came to this thread this am to see what I would need to do to an 80 to live at 450hp max. Stock injector size, maybe drop in turbo. Just want it reliable.
The torque is what’ll do you in. Guess you can always try a factory 80/85 out of a van, converter and trans combo. That would be best bet at a budget 80/85 that was designed to live behind a Dmax. If you can find this then I would roll with it bone stock at that power level.
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That’s what I’m seeing. I don’t mind to spend a couple dollars on it. I don’t plan to beat on it but also don’t want to mess with it twice. I’ve got a core 80 that needs rebuilt anyway so I was planning on upgrades.
Ok good. I would start with a good name brand billet input or aermet shaft. Ck and sonnax both make really good aermet inputs. Then a billet od planet, small or big od sprag (either one works). Billet clutch hub, 36 element direct drum sprag, factory main shaft is good. Then good clutches and steels throughout setup correctly.
Then the valve body. I would use a Jake’s. Either the auto shift D3 with or without a brake.
Then the converter. I’m partial to D&P, I know they work and I know what effort has been put into these over the past few years.
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Then the valve body. I would use a Jake’s. Either the auto shift D3 with or without a brake.
Then the converter. I’m partial to D&P, I know they work and I know what effort has been put into these over the past few years.
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