How are the LML's holding up?
- Thread starter Max Attitude
- Start date
I've heard it's a cavitation issue. Lift pump set at high pressure should help eliminate it...
They don't have the ability to push volume like the cp3??? I know they have the pressure to drive peizos so the psi is there but perhaps the volume is the issue? I belive they hve one less cylinder but I don't know the overall cc. but at reasonable tuning levels or stock I would say they do fine. That being said if there was an easy way (and I am sure there will be soon enough) to switch to a cp3 I would do it if I decided to up the power a large amount on the lml.
Cp3s flow 20% more fuel then a cp4 iirc Brayden flowed them and that's what he found.
Kory has dual pumps and a lift pump there's another issue they have don't remember what was found with them. But in maxx effort tuning some have grenaded a few
Also fleece makes a cp3 conversion kit for the lml been out couple months :thumb:
Kory has dual pumps and a lift pump
there's another issue they have don't remember what was found with them. But in maxx effort tuning some have grenaded a fewAlso fleece makes a cp3 conversion kit for the lml been out couple months :thumb:
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Not near as often not even close lol but throw a lift pump on like right now I'm sure it'd help the pump life think the 15s had some updated internals on the cp4 the fords do anyway
That won't happen so I guess we will hope for the best.
Exhaust wise… are these different than say the LBZ seeing how they have different frames? Looking for a cheap system with muffler or delete pipe/race pipe. He's an old man so he doesn't want it straight piped. The DPF acts as a muffler right? So eliminating that and the cat on the factory exhaust would be straight piping it? I haven't had a chance to really look at it yet.
Dpf an all that is one piece now they do make a race pipe and Lml exhaust specific for lmls
No exhausts for 01-10 won't fit the 11-15 trucks. And like stated there is only a giant dpf and cat before it in the exhaust
The cats are pretty restrictive right? Thinking a cat delete plus a muffler in place of the dpf…is there a direct replacement muffler for the dpf? Not finding one. Just the "race pipe". http://www.alligatorperformance.com/product-p/flo-ss862.htm
No there isn't have to cut it out I'd just replace the whole thing and keep the factory exhaust intact better that way
The LML's are the best IMO. People get chubbies over LBZ's but I'll take the new chassis any day because we use ours. If you don't tow you will like the older trucks better and their cushy ride, if you do tow you will appreciate not being on the bump stops all the time. Sway control, hill start, exhaust brake, stability control, and massive brakes all make them nicer. If you want to put a plow on you will like the axle that can actually handle it.
Unless you are racing or something, you do not need any more power that what is stock. They can't keep the tires stuck to the pavement without the traction control as it is. 400hp is plenty for towing too. I like power as much as anyone, im not 80 years old either, but for a practical truck I think the power they have is perfect.
If you have troubles with the emissions equipment out of warranty, then delete it. In warranty, leave it. No reason to risk anything, you don't save much by deleting it.
We have over 100k now on our 2011 LML and its had the DEF tank replaced and an EGR valve, otherwise its been flawless. To me thats reliability, DEF components fail on everything. We also have a 13 with 25k on it and no issues.
Economy is 13-15 mixed pulling trailers and driving around. I don't care what other people say, we got 14-17 with our LB7s doing the same stuff. LML has much more power, it takes fuel to make power.
The CP4 issue is real but blown out of proportion, its nothing like LB7 injector failures. The CP4 fails on all platforms not just the Duramax. Read the TDI threads those guys are more paranoid than anyone.:baby:
The CP4.2 uses two pistons, the CP3.3 uses a rotor like a wankel motor in a way with three chambers. CP4.2 is capable of higher pressures, but the one on the Duramax does not have the flow capabilities that the CP3.3 did. The CP4.2 is also timed whereas the Cp3.3 is not.
When CP3's fail its no big deal, when CP4's fail they tend to contaminate the entire fuel system meaning you have to replace the injectors as well. CP3's can do this as well, but it seems like every CP4 is guaranteed to do this.
Exhaust is different.
Unless you are racing or something, you do not need any more power that what is stock. They can't keep the tires stuck to the pavement without the traction control as it is. 400hp is plenty for towing too. I like power as much as anyone, im not 80 years old either, but for a practical truck I think the power they have is perfect.
If you have troubles with the emissions equipment out of warranty, then delete it. In warranty, leave it. No reason to risk anything, you don't save much by deleting it.
We have over 100k now on our 2011 LML and its had the DEF tank replaced and an EGR valve, otherwise its been flawless. To me thats reliability, DEF components fail on everything. We also have a 13 with 25k on it and no issues.
Economy is 13-15 mixed pulling trailers and driving around. I don't care what other people say, we got 14-17 with our LB7s doing the same stuff. LML has much more power, it takes fuel to make power.
The CP4 issue is real but blown out of proportion, its nothing like LB7 injector failures. The CP4 fails on all platforms not just the Duramax. Read the TDI threads those guys are more paranoid than anyone.:baby:
The CP4.2 uses two pistons, the CP3.3 uses a rotor like a wankel motor in a way with three chambers. CP4.2 is capable of higher pressures, but the one on the Duramax does not have the flow capabilities that the CP3.3 did. The CP4.2 is also timed whereas the Cp3.3 is not.
When CP3's fail its no big deal, when CP4's fail they tend to contaminate the entire fuel system meaning you have to replace the injectors as well. CP3's can do this as well, but it seems like every CP4 is guaranteed to do this.
Exhaust is different.
Thanks for the info. I did notice the truck has some good power stock. Most people say they gain a few mpg's without the dpf.
On LMLs? Doing what? LMMs gained a lot but LMLs hadn't, haven't followed much since the early ones though. Driving to church I'm sure it would be better but on a trailer working it wouldn't offset the cost of modifcations. It takes 2mpg and a lot of miles (100k) to offset the costs for most people.
What I've found is people use the MPG excuse to justify it. Why do you feel the need to validate yourself with others? If you wabt to do it, do it. Everybody rounds down their mpg's from before and rounds up their new numbers . Half of them never even pencil it out and half of the rest seem to completely pull numbers out of their ass.
If you are working these trucks, you will not have as many emissions problems nor will your fuel economy seem that bad. Emissions components love heat, driving around doesn't create it. Nothing wrong with owning a diesel pickup as a Sunday driver. I'm not one of those people that feels all self righteous because we use ours. However it is a different perspective and maybe you did buy the truck to work and make money. In that case things are a lot different.
The emissions system on the LMMs sacked as did everything from 07-10 by any brand. I haven't heard of people having nightmares with their DPFs on LMLs though, DEF issues yes but that is everything new with DEF.
I'm not a tree hugger, I've put many DPFs to rest, but for all of our working equipment I just don't see the issues anymore and could really cars less. The fuel economy for the work done (not MPG, not GPH) is better than in years past. The engines are reliable, powerful and quiet. I feel no need to go through the effort of removing them while under warranty. Even out of warranty I could care less until it fails and needs to be replaced, then I would do something else because it's cheaper. That's half the reason I did my wife's car, the other half is I like speed and power in that thing. It's her commuter but it's a toy too, it's not working like our trucks tractors and semis.
There's no right or wrong way, I'm just saying to remember this is a performance board so most delete their stuff so they can add a lot of power. If you are just looking to make the most money with you truck, keep it in your pocket and drive the thing. Don't idle, don't baby it and it will run great.
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