Flatbed trailer uprating/rebuild

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,110
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Phoenix Az
So my dad got this flatbed back in like 06 for a good deal from his buddy that only used it once (basically bought it to move 3 rhinos from Texas to az). My dad used it till I think 2015 when he decided to order up a new aluminum trailer. We worked a deal where I’d sell my old 16ft narrower flat bed to my younger brother and buy my dads for a few bucks more.

Over the years, I really haven’t done shit to it other than just put tires on it and added a winch. My dad put all new brakes and bearings in it just before I bought it. It’s probably due but don’t care cause of what I’m about to do. The deck is shot, the axles are U’ed the wrong way, the back of the trailer is slightly bent from me putting a Dmax on it and not supporting the ass end, the ball hitch is worn out, front jack is shot and spare tires are from 2012 lol. Plus putting my tractor on it pretty much about did it in. So yeah, it was either “kick it to the curb and buy a new one or look at fixing this one up”.

A year ago, I started looking at 10k trailer… my god were they expensive for decent ones. 7-8k for one and I just couldnt justify it. Certainly couldnt find a used one in good shape. So I looked into uprating mine to a 10k. I knew it wouldn’t be as simple as just putting axles and springs under it so I started looking at the frame. What I found was this trailer main frame was basically 1/4” 3x5 angle iron, not very sturdy. The wood sat down in the center with the 5” side sat vertically and the wood on the 3” side. What I figured out is I can take 3x3” .120 wall HREW, build and inner bed with crossmembers that I can weld to the channel and add to the tongue, this should significantly stiffen the chassis up and support it for 10k… I think. I mean, if this current setup help a 5k load and then it’s own weight, I don’t see why the tubing can’t add another 3k to that. We will see, the only place I can thing that would need more support is behind the axles which I can always add down the road. The other plus is I’ll still have 2” to put my deck boards in place and have a little lip left over.

I wound up getting 2 - 5200lbs 6 lug axles with brakes, spring purches, ubolts, springs, shackles, bolts and lug nuts for 1100 bucks. 6 new 6 lug wheels and two new tires for the spares (current tires on the ground are 3 years old). New rear tail lights, new 7 plug connector, new front jack, new ball hitch that’s now 2 5/16 and has more weight rating, 2 rear support jacks, new birch deck boards (I know, not the best but the current deck is that and make a long ass time with no care given to it), new deck screws and I think that’s it.

This is the most recent pic I have but it’s over a year old at this point
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And the last load that did her in. Slightly overloaded
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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,110
4,846
113
Phoenix Az
Today was the first step on her. I had a broken crossmember that was ratchet strapped up for too long and I need to go get my new lathe and mill. So yanked it up front and buzzed it back on. While I was there I figured “screw it, let’s throw the hitch on the front and a new jack”. Little did I know the mfg welded that damn hitch on in ever little crevice they could. Straight pain in the ass and of course I didn’t have my plasma cutter. Gave that to my dad since I ordered a new one .

F that junk. Jack was too short and moved like 6” left and right too.
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Welds ground down and surface rust cleaned off.
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Test fit
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Buzzed in and done. Welded outside and inside.
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Only chinas finest hitches 12.5k rated though
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I don’t particularly like the jack location and I may move it sooner than later but we will see. I had a good idea to mount it in the center but I didn’t have the tubing to do it.

Once I get the lathe and mill moved over, I’ll probably tear the deck off and start the inner frame build. I bought a mag based drill so I can drill a bunch of 1” or 1.5” holes in the trailer channel to be able to roset weld the inner frame in as well as weld the edges.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,110
4,846
113
Phoenix Az

lutzjk913

Well-known member
May 5, 2010
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groveport, ohio
last night, i think i decided on getting another tube part this jack goes onto and putting it in the center, then i can remove the jack when hitched and throw it on the side when towing. keeps the tailgate from being an issue as well.

That’s how my jack is. I despise the location as well but oh well. I’d love to add a tongue box on mine like yours but I’d have to move the battery and jack location for a full size box.

Or just go to a smaller box and offset it which is easier. Lol
 

LBZ

Super Moderator
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By the looks of the hitch it’s already setup for a center rv style jack. Could even splurge and put an electric one on and ditch the peasant hand crank.
 

2004LB7

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
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Norcal
I'd definitely go with removable one wether it be center mounted or like you have it. I've seen my share of bent jacks that where center mounted and still hung down when "all the way up"
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,110
4,846
113
Phoenix Az
By the looks of the hitch it’s already setup for a center rv style jack. Could even splurge and put an electric one on and ditch the peasant hand crank.

Tailgate smacking area, not ideal lol. Behind it where I want to put it will clear though.

Also, cranks don’t go dead . As you can see by the state of this trailer, it stays highly neglected
 

jlawles2

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2010
1,044
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48
Danbury, TX
Yeah the center mounted tend to get abused. That's why I want one of the twist lock ones. Pull it out when hitched and stick it in the box. With your skills, easy enough to add a plate behind the hitch head for it.

No they are not cheap, but by the time you put in 1 or 2 jacks, it pays for itself. Even the hand crank ones get expensive after a while.
 
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LBZ

Super Moderator
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Jul 2, 2007
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Tailgate smacking area, not ideal lol. Behind it where I want to put it will clear though.

Also, cranks don’t go dead . As you can see by the state of this trailer, it stays highly neglected
You can buy center hand cranks to you know! But my last RV my power for the jack came from my trailer plug so I could move it with no batteries in it when I put it in storage.
But if it’s going to interfere with your tailgate……then I guess not ideal.
 

Hoser

Active member
Jun 19, 2016
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Farmington, MN
I have fixed and replaced many tongue jacks. Those pipe mount jacks are the worst, they generally fit so loose and are such a pain that I never use them. I almost always use square, weld on jacks. And rule number 1, always oversize it. I would do an 8,000 pound jack minimum. And I would add some cross bracing in front of the tongue box and mount the jack there. It will be far away enough so the tailgate doesn’t hit it. Most come with a drop-leg, so it won’t drag, and if you get a side crank and put the handle on the front it will be easy to get to, won’t get in the way, and will be easy to crank.

I wish you well with your build, but man do I really hate those slide collar couplers 😂
 
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