Question: Factory Body Lift

Alliance1289

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Apr 26, 2011
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I know the reason these trucks come from the factory with a little bit of an added body lift is to help with the clearance of the big bellhousing on the Allison transmission and probably to help a little bit with the under hood clearances as our motors are fairly tall with the turbo being in the valley and all.

My question to you guys, is has anyone ever removed it or done any type of alterations to it? The reason I ask and the reason I am so curious to know is that (Im probably not the only one bothered by this) the frame rails on our trucks hang down far to low below the body for my liking. I am going to be starting a long (and expensive) journey with taking my truck completely apart, stripping it of ALL its wiring and other junk (stereo, HVAC, Airbags, blah blah blah...) and going back in with only what the truck needs to be legally street driven plus a roll cage. I plan on doing all of my own wiring from scratch and really stripping the truck down to just the essentials. My long term goal is to build a very simple (thus relatively light weight) track machine from the ground up and still drive it on the street occasionally. I might also throw it in the local car show after its finished just to give the old musclecar guys here in town a taste of new school diesel.

With all the factory stuff removed from underneath the dash I will have some room to open up the tranny tunnel a little bit and take the body lift out. Im not planning on running the Allison tranny when the truck is done, so I may not have to worry too much about the tranny tunnel as the transmission I plan on running is much smaller. Im also quite curious to see what kind of clearance I will have with a much larger than stock turbo in the valley. I will probably have to run some form of cowl hood to clear the turbo, but thats alright with me. Im also wondering if the steering linkage will be affected by lowering the body down an inch.

So am I just flat out crazy for wanting to do this? Or would it be easier to just go buy a half ton and build my race rig out of that as they dont have the body lift in it from the factory. I could probably find one at a junk yard for cheap and start off with that and as the project moves along, transfer my drivetrain over to the half ton platform with taking obvious provisions to ensure the structural integrity of the chassis.

Discuss!

Edit: After doing some more thinking about the adverse effects of lowering the body an inch... It would definitely make running a downpipe off a rather healthy set of twins a daunting task.

It may also mean that to gain the desired look of a lowered rig (by lowering the suspension) I wont have to lower the suspension as much to have the results in terms of the look and stance that I am after.
 
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07bluelbz

Work Hard & Play Harder
Sep 6, 2009
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I thought the reason the hds were taller was because of the double frame design which is also why the frame hangs down so far. The body mounts look pretty standard to me. Having said that if the body pucks cant be trimmed down an inch or so, you could always grind the frame mounts off and lower their position on the frame.
 

sweetdiesel

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Aug 6, 2006
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I didnt think body mount where all that high either?

the turbo wont be a problom ( there is quite a bit of room ) i run a 475 on a 3" spacer and there is still room:)

run a hood stack and you wont have to worry about the exaust and then you also save weight

steering should be allright too

as for the trans, I dont know what you plan on running but it still has to hook to the motor. No matter what you need the room that being said you can do quite a bit with a 8lb sledge hammer to the underneath. The worst spot is where the fire wall is on the bottom as far as hieght

sounds like a cool project


I wish i would of known how much i was going to cut up my truck before i did it......would of saved a lot of time in the beginning
 

Alliance1289

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I thought the reason the hds were taller was because of the double frame design which is also why the frame hangs down so far. The body mounts look pretty standard to me. Having said that if the body pucks cant be trimmed down an inch or so, you could always grind the frame mounts off and lower their position on the frame.

Just about everywhere you look under the truck there is a gap between the frame rail and the bottom of the cab.

Im also wondering what the ride in the cab will be like with having it mounted basically directly to the frame. I don't think it would change that much... any time I've ever held one of those body mounts in my hands they seem rock solid.
 

D-MAX Mafia

Hood down, smoke up!
Nov 4, 2009
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I have always wondered why the LLY's were so easy to put a down pipe in compared to an LBZ? Its almost like the body is sitting higher on the frame or the engine is lower? I would rather do anything turbo related on an LLY over an LBZ.
 

TheBac

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You cant do a thing about it because the "body lift" is found in the steel pads welded to the frame that your body mounts attach to, not in some "puck" that can be removed. Look at the body mount attach points on a 1500 compared to our trucks and you'll see what I mean.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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You cant do a thing about it because the "body lift" is found in the steel pads welded to the frame that your body mounts attach to, not in some "puck" that can be removed. Look at the body mount attach points on a 1500 compared to our trucks and you'll see what I mean.

Sure you can tom, just cut and reweld :D. Its no simple task thats for sure
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
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I really blew it when I didn't deal with the body lift before putting in the cage.

I should have dropped the body as low as possible before starting on the cage.

I'd guess those pucks are there for some give when the frame flexes, or you will pop out your windshield, etc. That might be why some older Fords have recurring windshield leaks, because they have weak frames.
 

408.Luke

Joined the DARKSIDE
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people do body drops all the time just not on these trucks, personally id get a 1/2 ton ex/sb they frame is way lighter and as far as the turbo in the valley goes just side mount it and you wont have to worry about the clearance then the DP can go through where they do on the twin kits
 

TheBac

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I always thought it was because of the radiator/IC size. But thats not here nor there.
 

Alliance1289

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I always thought it was because of the radiator/IC size. But thats not here nor there.

Thats also a good point, I didnt think about that. Im going to see if it can be done when I have the truck apart for paint and such. Its going to be an interesting process thats for sure.
 

Alliance1289

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I really blew it when I didn't deal with the body lift before putting in the cage.

I should have dropped the body as low as possible before starting on the cage.

I'd guess those pucks are there for some give when the frame flexes, or you will pop out your windshield, etc. That might be why some older Fords have recurring windshield leaks, because they have weak frames.

Do you have some pictures of your cage setup? I need some more ideas for how to go about doing mine.